Tiller question

Sedgewood · Mar 2, 2006

Also fitting that catagory, I can't even plead ignorance! Any other PT guys have a tractor with a 2pt (yes 2pt; no not the PT)? 

Not any more I don't /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif I gave 2pt up only cause my next tractor came with 3pt and I'm not sure it was a step in the right direction either. If you had unhooked your attachment on good level ground, hookup was much easier than 3ph.

That was so long ago now I can't even remember what IH called their 2pt /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Sedgewood

HowlinHills · Mar 2, 2006

Hi Dale,

Thanks for the info. I'm envious of your lack of rocks; they're my best crop. More seem to grow every year.

Your use of the stump grinder is just what I'm thinking of doing - shallow water lines and homeowner grinding of stumps. I don't have enough trenching to justify a trencher or enough stumps for just a stump grinder but if I can get it to do some double duty it makes it worth it. Worried about the rocks again; that's why I'm thinking of making up a blade for trenching so I don't ruin the stump cutter blade. Sounds like I should do both the stump grinding and trenching in cooler weather, thanks for the advice.

Take care

HowlinHills · Mar 2, 2006

Hi SnowRidge,

My tendencies are slipping out already. Admittedly, I follow that old motto, how does it go? - If it ain't broke, don't fix it, just make it better!

Seriously, I like the fact that many of you try to make the attachments and PT more useful while trying to save some $$. If I come up with anything useful I'll let you know. Heck, if you want I can give you a laugh by telling you about my failures as well.

Thanks to everyone for the tiller advice. With some of the last comments about tilling in rocky soil, I am still undecided about the tiller. Will have to look at it this weekend.

Take care

Spiffy · Mar 2, 2006

I believe it was simply called "fasthitch."

Spiffy · Mar 2, 2006

Comparing mine to what you're looking at isn't much better than comparing the 3pt ones, but since you like modifying things perhaps I can get some ideas bouncing around your head.

As noted, the biggest problem with rocks and tillers is getting them stuck in between the the tines and sheet metal. It'd take some interesting tube steel bracing , but what if you loose the sheet metal? I have an old "tine-driven" tiller; no sheet metal: it only had a little tin to keep dirt off of the engine, which I got rid of just because it was beat up. Doesn't pulverize like an enclosed rear tine (or 3pt or the PT tiller), but it is unstoppable /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif Warning not recommended for use around pets, children, or "safety police" /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I do think you'd want a gaurd somewhere though to protect the operator, but it can be a foot away from the tines. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

ernemats · Mar 2, 2006

If you are talking about the pt tiller you will not find any sheet metal anywhere on it , the guard is heavy metal.

Spiffy · Mar 3, 2006

( If you are talking about the pt tiller you will not find any sheet metal anywhere on it , the guard is heavy metal. )

For some reason, anything measured in gage instead of 1/4" etc I call "sheet"; plate steel might be a better term for the PT tiller.

The fact that it's gaurd is pretty much is construction is why I'm thinking it'd be a pretty wild mod. I just looked at the picture of the 425 version on PT's site; perhaps an extra plate could be welded on each side, extending the shaft down and forward about a foot?

/forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif Just brainstorming here! Of course, if it works I'll gladly take the credit. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

MossRoad · Mar 3, 2006

Is the tiller motor reversible? Has anyone put a reversing switch in the tiller circuit? Rock jams, lift the tiller, run it in reverse, spit out the rock. I think that would work if the motor is reversible, wouldn't it?

Spiffy · Mar 3, 2006

Sounds like a perfect application for the reverse! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif Not sure about the 425 tools, but I think all my motors are bidirectinal.

I'm one of a I think a couple people here who's been considering exactly that. I'm just too cheap to buy the valve. It's a bit more complex than first thought (because, both pressure and return need to be switched), but not bad either.

You either need 2 single port valves and some fancy hosing; or, much better, a reversing or a perhaps a "switching valve".

For a manual (as opposed 12V DC) solution, I think something like THIS would work. The pressure looks a bit low for my system though. Be sure it has detents instead of springs or is listed for motor instead of cylinder control.