Time for some skid plates

[xrjohndeere]

I was using my 342hst the other day moving dirt and cleaning up some under growth brush. I pushed in the rear hydro pedal and it would not come back up. I could not push the other one down either. I could not pop it into neutral. I was on a run away tractor. I didn稚 panic. I throttled down and backed up to a open spot and shut the key off. I locked the brake and lowered the loader and blade. I figured some linkage broke. I looked under the tractor and found a stick was wedged between the two linkages of the hydro pedals preventing them from returning to neutral position. Looking over the under carriage I have decided to build some plates to cover vital stuff underneath and also the fuel tank. Anybody out there make any skid plates for their tractor? Any pics? Ideas? Thanks for any info.

 

[MF243RedTop]

Full belly works great if you can swing it on your model or as close as you can get.

I broke a couple of foot throttle linkages before going into full forestry mode. No problems since..

 

[1 of U]

your tractor looks more like a Skidder ....

just use some 1/4 inch plate use 1/4 X2 for the straps lay out how you want it all to bolt to the tractor
then come back and weld your straps to the plate steel , roud off and edges so they dont catch and dig
either in the debri field or you split your head on it when your under it ..

Jake

 

[Avenger]

I have a subframe mount for my backhoe that replaced the FEL support arms that ran from my rear axle to the loader brackets. The new subframe mount is more like a 'T' (upside down) with 3/8in steel vs the old square stock that was factory. This makes an excellent shelf for expanded or sheet metal. I've been planning on bolting something to this 'shelf' to act as a skid plate for a while, just havent gotten to it. I was thinking of expanded metal because that way I can easily tell if there is a leak or something, while offering protection. Granted, the protection offered by expanded is not as good as sheet steel, but better than nothing.

Maybe consider fabricating new loader support arms, like an upside down 'T' that will serve as the FEL supports and a shelf for a skid plate.

 

[1 of U]

Hello,

the expanded metal is like pissing in the wind !!

if you going to put the time in to build a shield/guard then do it right
the first time and you wont have to go back and do it a second time ,
on a guard it can be drilled if needed ,, then if there is any leaks that
may arise you shoud be able to see drips ,,, then you will know you
have a problem ,,

Jake

 

[Rustyiron]

Here's my solution.

 

[Rustyiron]

Not real pretty, but nothing get's past it.

If also makes for a handy chain box. (pic on rt. circled)

 

[MF243RedTop]

Here's my solution.
View attachment 677631

View attachment 677635

Very very nice!
That's a lot of thought, engineering, time and effort!
I like!

 

[Rustyiron]

Thanks Red, as you well know, there's not much to attach to under there. Got any pics of your set up? I like to see how others handle this.:thumbsup:

 

[xrjohndeere]

That is exactly what I am thinking. Nice work.

 

[Cataclysm]

Here are a couple pic's of the armor I made for my LS4155. I use the tractor clearing trees and brush quite a bit. Its been on there for several years with no issues.





No idea why the pic's aren't orientated properly.

 

[buck12]

This is what is under my Grand L. While nothing like what Rustiron made, it does protect the hydraulic filters and third function lines. One of these days I may add a little more under belly protection.

 

[MF243RedTop]

Thanks Red, as you well know, there's not much to attach to under there. Got any pics of your set up? I like to see how others handle this.:thumbsup:

The 2 mounting FEL spots along each side, heavy angle laid on it's side welded to the 3/8 sheet steel.
Upfront used 4 holes that front bumper/brush guard attaches. C channel welded to sheet steel with 4 bolt holes. Don't have any good pics on hand but will get some tommorow.

 

[Rustyiron]

This is what is under my Grand L. While nothing like what Rustiron made, it does protect the hydraulic filters and third function lines. One of these days I may add a little more under belly protection.

Hey buck and cataclysm, this was a winter project for me and I admittedly went to extremes. (winters are long up here:laughing I took it as a challenge to keep anything from poking my tractor and to only have to worry about the mower or the logs I'm dragging and keeping my hat on my head. Your skid plates and guarding look great and I'm sure they work well and I enjoy seeing other's solutions. :thumbsup:

 

[MF243RedTop]

Thanks Red, as you well know, there's not much to attach to under there. Got any pics of your set up? I like to see how others handle this.:thumbsup:

The angle welded to plate steel bolted to FEL mounting bracket.
Up front c-channel welded to plate 4 holes torched through for bolts to mount to frame.
3" channel used to fab front and 2" tubing along 3/8 plate for bracing. Such a long run of plate will bend and warp with if not braced..(ask my buddy he knows) Choose tubing because it's easier to clean out than the channel.
Other holes cut in plate for oil and hydraulic drain.

 

[Cycledude]

Paid my dealer $150.00 to install a skid plate on my LS XR4155 before it was delivered, it looks pretty decent to me.

 

[JCoastie]

Paid my dealer $150.00 to install a skid plate on my LS XR4155 before it was delivered, it looks pretty decent to me.

was that a factory part or a custom built part?

 

[Cycledude]

Custom built but it was pretty simple nothing complicated, it’s just bolted to the loader frame under the tractor. could have done it myself but for $150 it seemed like a good idea to just pay someone with previous experience to do it.

 

[Cedar Pete]

your tractor looks more like a Skidder ....

just use some 1/4 inch plate use 1/4 X2 for the straps lay out how you want it all to bolt to the tractor
then come back and weld your straps to the plate steel , roud off and edges so they dont catch and dig
either in the debri field or you split your head on it when your under it ..

Jake

Is 1/4" thick steel ok for forestry, or should it be 3/8"?

 

[1 of U]

sure 1/4 should be good for just about any plate