Tips for securing tractor on trailer

bdog · Mar 9, 2005

I have hauled several tractors and equipment before and know how to do it with chains and boomers and one at each corner but I am looking for any tips or tricks to make it simpler. I am going to be doing commercial mowing and may be loading and unloading my tractor several times a day so any time savers will help.

I am thinking of loading the tractor on the trailer exactly where I want it and the marking the ideal connection points on the trailer and welding D rings there. Then I was going to measure and get the chains the exact length needed so there is no slack to deal with. I have not really studied the tractor a lot yet (just bought it) but am trying to think of the best way to connect the chains to it. Any ideas would be great.

TBH_Farms · Mar 10, 2005

( I am thinking of loading the tractor on the trailer exactly where I want it and the marking the ideal connection points on the trailer and welding D rings there. Then I was going to measure and get the chains the exact length needed so there is no slack to deal with. )

That's exactly the way we do it with our skidsteer at work. We pull it behind one of our line trucks to remove snow from manholes for other crews; we have that thing on and off the trailer about ten times a day. The four chains are secured to the trailer with d-rings and each has a ratchet binder on it. The skidsteer has hooks welded to the engine cover and the bucket. When whoever is driving the skidsteer backs it onto the trailer, the other guy hooks up the rear points and bangs on the cab. Then the operator drives forward until the chains tension up, drops the bucket, and kills the engine. Then the front is hooked up. I don't think we've actually used the rear binders in over two years; they could just as well be pieces of chain the proper length. It takes literally three minutes from when you back the machine on the trailer until you're ready to roll. The only problem I can see you having is finding/creating good attach points for your chains. I've spent some time staring at my TC40D, and I still don't know where I could put any hooks in the rear.

AlanB · Mar 10, 2005

Our "load" changes often depending on implements and etc. that we are going to be using. (small landscaping business)

But I did just grab a bunch of small 1foot or so, lengths of chain that were being thrown away and am going to weld them to the side of my trailer as a more convienient way to hook in my boomers.

On my NH 1925 I put a clevis on the front of the machine, it might be on the loader mount, and tie chain through there, and I put a pin in my fixed draw bar that looks like a Y on my machine and tie down there.

Same machine same equipment each time, as you said paint etc. or make it permanent and as the other poster said, chains on the back, then pull forward to tension, then chains on the front. Or Vice Versa.

KennedyDiesel · Mar 10, 2005

Definitely a good idea. You could also use wheel chocks or reference marks. Screw pin clevis work quite well if you have a good mounting hole.

Now as for DOT regs, don't holdme too this, but I believe there may be something about requiring a binder/tightener for and aft.

Myself, I generally drive on, chain the machine, and back up till tight, then chain and cinch the rear.

I've also seen guys relay a binder between 2 legs of a chaine tied in a V It would look like a V with a slash through it. This idea also should probably satisfy any regs.

http://www.kennedydiesel.com/photogal/dmaxtrailer.html

In the pic above, I hauled the dozer to our site for the neighbor as he has an older single axle dump truck and hates to risk DOT scrutiny. I seem to recall the binder on the front is more cosmetic than anything.

2nstonge · Mar 10, 2005

Can you use the web straps with the built-in ratchet tightener vs using chains? Or are the chains just that much stronger, safer, better? I've seen straps at TSC, I think, the webbing is about 5 inches wide and they're rated for 10-15,000 lbs.

I just bought a 14ft steel dump trailer, it has 4 D-rings already but they're located at the top corner of the sides - 2ft off the floor. I'm having 6 D-rings; 2 front, 2 middle, 2 rear welded to the bed.

-Norm

TBH_Farms · Mar 10, 2005

( Can you use the web straps with the built-in ratchet tightener vs using chains? Or are the chains just that much stronger, safer, better? I've seen straps at TSC, I think, the webbing is about 5 inches wide and they're rated for 10-15,000 lbs. )

If they are rated for 10-15k, you're good to go. My ratchet binders are rated for 5400 working load, and the proof coil chain most truckers use for tiedowns is in the 5-10k range (roughly - don't quote me on that). If you look at newer flatbed trailers, you will see that most of them have integrated nylon straps that are used to secure loads. As for DOT, as long as your tiedowns are properly rated, they don't care what material they're made out of.