Tips on MX6 Cutting?
- Thread starter rmonio
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OP
rmonio
Platinum Member
Dan -
Have you adjusted your slip clutch and is it pretty easy to do? I've not adjusted mine having only just got it from the dealer (they did the installation).
I noticed that my PTO shaft has gotten remarkably better now that I've been using it - but I'll pull it out all the way to see if there are any bends in it. The bugger was sure tight at first....
Any comments on the best way to remove/sharpen the blades?
-Bob
Have you adjusted your slip clutch and is it pretty easy to do? I've not adjusted mine having only just got it from the dealer (they did the installation).
I noticed that my PTO shaft has gotten remarkably better now that I've been using it - but I'll pull it out all the way to see if there are any bends in it. The bugger was sure tight at first....
Any comments on the best way to remove/sharpen the blades?
-Bob
OP
rmonio
Platinum Member
...and yes, I'm looking to get an i-Match now as that should help me detach/attach it more readily.
-Bob
-Bob
Dutch445
Elite Member
Don't overlook other systems like Pat's easy change ,
Look thru the forums and read what people say about
I-match, and see if it's for you.
Also, as others have said, be careful in unknown ground.
We had a customer whack a 20" truck rim (old campsite
fire pit) and bend the shaft coming out of the bottom of
the gearbox... so you can hurt the unit if not careful.
(as any unit would be)
good luck, and happy mowing
Look thru the forums and read what people say about
I-match, and see if it's for you.
Also, as others have said, be careful in unknown ground.
We had a customer whack a 20" truck rim (old campsite
fire pit) and bend the shaft coming out of the bottom of
the gearbox... so you can hurt the unit if not careful.
(as any unit would be)
good luck, and happy mowing
bomack
New member
When I did an unfamiliar area near a ravine, a blanket of weeds were 6-7 foot high, I went backwards, very slow, and kept looking behind and down into the slot between the wheel and mower, hoping to see a hole, rut or dropoff before a wheel could drop into it. Of course roll bar was up and seat belt was on!
After I got the lay of the land down the fun part started and I proceeded forward with FEL down low as stated by others.
After I got the lay of the land down the fun part started and I proceeded forward with FEL down low as stated by others.
OP
rmonio
Platinum Member
I've been doing my cutting with the blade down - slowly - and always checking as I cut. I've knocked quite a few rocks out and it's worked pretty well.
Anyone care to comment on the best way to change blades or adjust the slip clutch on these things?
-Bob
Anyone care to comment on the best way to change blades or adjust the slip clutch on these things?
-Bob
I have no insight on either changing blades or adjusting the slip clutch (I'm still in the "rookie category" with only about 15 hours of cutting experience on my brand new MX5....). However, my cousin mentioned that he uses an impact wrench to get his blades off when he needs to shapen them. Also, regarding the I-match....I failed to mention that I also have the Top-n-Tilt which greatly helps the on/off process of switching implements together tweaking angles for my BB and MX5.
rockyridgefarm
Elite Member
For sharpening blades, the impact wrench is a great way to go. WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!
But, you can quickly touch up the blades with a 4.5 inch angle grinder. (They are very cheap, if you don't already own one, and very handy) Just raise the cutter on stands and sharpen the blades while they are still mounted.
WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!
Rotary cutters don't need to be razor sharp. I have heard some guys that prefer them a little dull when actually brush cutting. Less likely to turn saplings into little spears...
Rotary cutters are differant than a finish mower. They blades are very heavy and are mounted to a large round pan 'stumpjumper'. The pan spins and the blades are swinging from its edge. Startup and shutdown both allow thae blades to clank into the pan. Without the stumpjumper, they would beat themselves to death if they high centered on a rock or stump.
But, you can quickly touch up the blades with a 4.5 inch angle grinder. (They are very cheap, if you don't already own one, and very handy) Just raise the cutter on stands and sharpen the blades while they are still mounted.
WEAR EYE PROTECTION!!!
Rotary cutters don't need to be razor sharp. I have heard some guys that prefer them a little dull when actually brush cutting. Less likely to turn saplings into little spears...
Rotary cutters are differant than a finish mower. They blades are very heavy and are mounted to a large round pan 'stumpjumper'. The pan spins and the blades are swinging from its edge. Startup and shutdown both allow thae blades to clank into the pan. Without the stumpjumper, they would beat themselves to death if they high centered on a rock or stump.
OP
rmonio
Platinum Member
Thanks for the info, Mike. That explains it a bit better.
Do you use Jack stands to do your sharpening (2 ft units like they have in the picture - in the manual)? I have a grinder that I can use to "touch-up" the blades if necessary. So I should be ok when I need to do it... plus I already used my air-ratchet on my finish mower blades so I know the benefits of having that available..
Your explanation of how the blades work with the pan explains what I'm seeing/hearing also. Is it normal for the blades to stay extended when you start/stop or retracted? I noticed that there isn't a "clang" when it engages if they are extended prior.
Either way - thanks for the help. Now if I just get the darn PTO shaft to extend easier, I'm set. The i-Match did the trick for connecting things up easier, too.
-Bob
Do you use Jack stands to do your sharpening (2 ft units like they have in the picture - in the manual)? I have a grinder that I can use to "touch-up" the blades if necessary. So I should be ok when I need to do it... plus I already used my air-ratchet on my finish mower blades so I know the benefits of having that available.
.Your explanation of how the blades work with the pan explains what I'm seeing/hearing also. Is it normal for the blades to stay extended when you start/stop or retracted? I noticed that there isn't a "clang" when it engages if they are extended prior.
Either way - thanks for the help. Now if I just get the darn PTO shaft to extend easier, I'm set. The i-Match did the trick for connecting things up easier, too.
-Bob
timb
Veteran Member
- Joined
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- Southwest PA
- Tractor
- Deere 4710/reverser, JD 318 (still needs TLC), JD LT160
The slip clutch is quite easy to adjust, and the procedure is in the manual.
There are 3 bolts around the clutch, and they set the plate pressure against the clutch spring.
Basically you want to loosen the 3 bolts a bit - use a paint stick or equiv. to mark a line across the edge of the plates - then fire up the tractor and hit the PTO a few times let it slip and knock the rust off of the plate surfaces. You'll know if the plates have spun since your line won't 'line up' anymore. Then set the 3 bolts so that the gap distance is back to the correct spec. (Pictures in the manual). The whole job won't take 15 minutes. The plates can get pretty warm when they spin/slide.
If you don't have the manual - you can get it from Deere. Has all the maintenance procedures, fastener torque settings, etc.,.
There are 3 bolts around the clutch, and they set the plate pressure against the clutch spring.
Basically you want to loosen the 3 bolts a bit - use a paint stick or equiv. to mark a line across the edge of the plates - then fire up the tractor and hit the PTO a few times let it slip and knock the rust off of the plate surfaces. You'll know if the plates have spun since your line won't 'line up' anymore. Then set the 3 bolts so that the gap distance is back to the correct spec. (Pictures in the manual). The whole job won't take 15 minutes. The plates can get pretty warm when they spin/slide.
If you don't have the manual - you can get it from Deere. Has all the maintenance procedures, fastener torque settings, etc.,.
