TIPS ON TSC 4.5 INCH METAL BANDSAW

[SkunkWerX]

Escavador,

Sandman gave a lot of good pointers, as did everyone else.
I have the old green one from HF. It's been running for years, runs and runs.

I got fed up with the flimsy base/legs and built a wooden box, used a 2x12 for the top, and put it on lockable casters. The box is open at the cutting end, and I store smaller metal pieces, blades, oiler can, etc. down there.

The wooden box also lowered the saw base a little bit, so it will roll under my workbench for storage.

I use a regular oil can squirter with cutting oil. only takes a little bit, but I find it cuts a little smoother that way, especially in thicker stock.

ALWAYS have a spare blade on hand, or two. Nothing will slow progress like a suddenly broken blade, and no spare close by.

I also agree with the slow speed. Just keep it there.

You will really appreciate having it, I know I do, before I got mine (back in the last century) I used a Sawzall with bi metal blades to cut all my steel.
Now, 90% of all metal cut in my shop goes through the little green monster.

 

[escavader]

Ive gone from a sawzall,to the ultra thin cutting wheels for my MAKITA grinder.Ive built every thing under the sun in my garage.splitters,trailers implements etc tired of cutting with a grinder,or sawzall Even cut with my arc welder on occasion .Cant see buying a plasma cutter ,or torches [too expensive/and or contracts]That tractor cab im building has ALOT of peices in the frame to cut,is why i figured its time to invest in a bandsaw.One of my friends suggested a radiac saw,but its still a noisy grinding wheel,and lots of sparks etc
ALAN

 

[SkunkWerX]

You will still find yourself using the grinder with cutting wheels, once in a while.

Other than that, you picked a good time to get the bandsaw, it should make your cab project go smoothly.

Someone already said it, but, I'll repeat; it's nice to get the thing cutting, and be able to walk away, take measurements, get the welder ready, or anything else that needs to be done, while the piece cuts.

 

[2manyrocks]

These smaller bandsaws are affordable, but are not the cure all for cutting metal if there is one. Most of the headaches with these small bandsaws is in getting them to cut straight. And if you cut one piece at 90 degrees, move the saw to another setting, back to 90 and then try to repeat the same odd setting, lots of luck. If you need several pieces cut at the same angle, try to cut them all at once if you can. I won't be selling my bandsaw, but my bandsaw sure doesn't work with the accuracy, precision and ease of setting of any miter saw used in woodworking.

 

[excelagator]

These smaller bandsaws are affordable, but are not the cure all for cutting metal if there is one. Most of the headaches with these small bandsaws is in getting them to cut straight. And if you cut one piece at 90 degrees, move the saw to another setting, back to 90 and then try to repeat the same odd setting, lots of luck. If you need several pieces cut at the same angle, try to cut them all at once if you can. I won't be selling my bandsaw, but my bandsaw sure doesn't work with the accuracy, precision and ease of setting of any miter saw used in woodworking.

You must have the older ones. Mine has cut quite well and I can get the correct angle and square. I build high-end custom doors for a living. I wish I could get the saws at work as well and/or work as my little HF bandsaw does.

Dan

 

[sandman2234]

I messed with my cheap saw for months, off and on, mostly throwing rocks at it, till I mentioned it to a friend, that the piece of junk wouldn't cut straight. He told me he could make it cut straight, and if he couldn't he would buy me a new saw. In exchange, I had to do some work that he needed done with the saw, provided it cut straight.
I had to cut 500 pieces of aluminum 1x2 flatbar. I tig welded one end of 10 bars together and cut 10 pieces at a time. Still took forever, but it was worth the half hour my buddy spent adjusting my saw. A week later, I got a check for payment for cutting the pieces. I questioned him about it, and he told me that it was a rush job, and paid just over $8.00 a cut, because nobody could work it in over the weekend and they had to have them on Monday. He gave me $4 a cut, which came in handy back then. I could stand a couple of side jobs like that right now!!
David from jax

 

[mjncad]

Escavader:

I hope you post pictures of your can project, as I'm kind of doing the same with my 4200...at least in my mind.

All the horizontal band-saws posted in this thread are the universal Chinese bandsaw sold by numerous outlets. Mine is by Grizzly and I bought it for the swivel bow feature to make cutting angles easier.

G9742 4" x 6" Metal-Cutting Bandsaw w/ Swivel Head

Jet is also marketing the same saw with a nicer stand and a few minor tweaks that make it nicer. If I were buying the horizontal saw now, I'd take the Jet over the Grizzly just for the added little niceties.

WMH ® - JET 5 x 6 Swivel Head Bandsaw 1/2HP 115/230V 1Ph

My Grizzly has served me well; but when I replaced the blade after the original broke, I forgot to make it cut plumb; though it cut square, which caused me to come up with a jury rigged solution to cover the uneven cuts in a project I was working on. I use Starrett bi-metal blades on both of my saws and I get them from MSC Direct or their sister company, ENCO. Make sure you dial in the saw before you do critical work. My Grizzly has three speeds, and I leave it on the middle one since mild steel is what I cut the most. If I cut aluminum, I'd probably increase the speed, and if I cut stainless, I'd lower the speed. MSC Industrial Supply Co. Home Page and Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies

Since I tuned up my Grizzly, the angle pointer doesn't line up with zero, although the saw cuts square. I use my Browne & Sharpe Engineer's squares to set it back to 90-degrees, and when I need an angle, I cut a scrap piece of straight lumber on my table saw to the proper angle to set the saw's angle.

I also have a Wilton 14" vertical metal/wood cutting bandsaw that I use for metal work exclusively; but it's nice to know I can use it for wood if need be. It has 7-speeds. I use the Wilton a lot too, and once I made some tweaks to it, the saw has done very well for me. I bought a Kreg woodworker's fence for the Wilton and it is far better than the Wilton fence I bought. I also use the zero clearance plastic inserts on the Wilton and that helps keep the small steel scraps from wedging themselves in the throat when cut off.

WMH ® - WILTON 14 Wood/Metal Vertical Bandsaw 1HP 115V 1Ph

Wilton has a variable speed version of my saw; but it is only meant for metal work, and it doesn't go as slow as the belt drive version can.

I use Fenner Drive's Powertwist belts on all my belt driven tools and they are worth the investment in how smooth they operate, reduced vibration, and are a bit quieter to boot.

I hope this helps.

 

[mjncad]

Can you find out for me where he got his window gaskets?That really dresses it up.
ALAN

Check out McMaster-Carr for window gaskets and all sorts of other useful hardware. They are pricey; but if they don't have it, it either doesn't exist or its for an industry they don't serve. McMaster-Carr

I have a self imposed $50 minimum purchase, which doesn't take long to get to. I'd just hate to see them quit selling to lowly little homeowners like me because people start inundating them with little $5 orders.

I just placed another order with them today, and probably by the end of the week I'll have my stuff. Even though I know what's inside the box, opening a McMaster-Carr package is like Christmas morning to me.

Check out Del City - Wiring Products and Professional Electrical Supplies for automotive electrical stuff. They have a $25 minimum order.

 

[MossRoad]

You will still find yourself using the grinder with cutting wheels, once in a while.

Other than that, you picked a good time to get the bandsaw, it should make your cab project go smoothly.

Someone already said it, but, I'll repeat; it's nice to get the thing cutting, and be able to walk away, take measurements, get the welder ready, or anything else that needs to be done, while the piece cuts.

Someone mentioned somewhere that they set the thing to cut and walked away from it and it ended up starting on fire. So, do not let the thing run if you intend to leave the room or shop. I wheel mine out into the driveway and let it cut away out there. If it bursts into flames, all it will do is burn to the ground.

 

[AlanB]

My tips,

I am again the odd man out in that for the most part, I run the cheap chinese blades I buy by the dozen. Cheap, effective, and does not bother me when one hangs or breaks, I do keep one or two good blades around for when I want a really nice cut, but for the most part, the cheap cruddy blades work within the tolerances that I need to weld.

I built a bigger, heavier, taller stand for mine with substantially larger wheels.

I put a couple little peices of angle iron under the stand that acts as a slide tray to hold a cake pan I had, it catches the sawdust and keeps the shop a bit cleaner.

I put a peice of rod (or a washer would work well) on the bolt to tighten up the stop piece easily, without tools.

I put a small roll pin in the stop piece so that it does not bind up at cut off point when using the repetitive stop.

I added a more substatial piece of metal to the part that knocks off the switch when the saw bottoms down and turns off the power.

I always run mine at low speed. I walk off and do other things while it cuts, usually, when doing lots of work, it involves walking between the belt sander and the saw, smoothing, cleaning etc the edges from the last piece I cut off.

I am still running the cheap Chinese motor on mine, probably 15 years old with substantial amount of time on it.

For the money, these saws are real tough to beat.