Tips on vertical posts?

[mouse]

interesting comments all.

i probably should've mentioned i've done about 6 years over time as a professional fencer and plenty of my handiwork still stands properly and untouched 29 years later. almost without fail i've used what comes out of the hole whatever it is, sometimes just adding a few rocks that may be handy to help things along.

frost heaving is not something i've had to deali with, we get frosts here but they don't seem to create any sort of problem.

re water in the hole, i've never noted a problem.

by extension of that logic of using stone, gravel etc if the hole is dug into clay then you've bascially just created a nice deep pond and adding stone to it will only help to ensure that water gets trapped around the post.

i usually backfill a bit proud so water runs away from the post.

hey, all good, australia is not america...

 

[radman1]

mouse

Like you, I just use the same dirt that came out of the hole to put back in the hole. My dad use to tell me that a well packed post hole will use all the dirt that come out. Often, I even have to find a little extra dirt. Like you, I also leave the dirt a little high around the post for water to run away.
Frost heaving is also a non-issue for me. Most of my posts are 3'-4' deep. With 2 experienced helpers, I can set an open, straight 1/2 mile of posts in a day with hydraulic auger on skidsteer and hydraulic tamper. Going around curves or through trees/brush takes much longer.

 

[mouse]

true, radman, too true.

if you want to speed things up try using a bunch of steel posts as sighters if you know what i mean.

I've never used a hydraulic tamper, cannot really see the need as i think hand ramming it is quick enough. the last fella i offsided for now has a pneumatic one i believe.

1 tip tho if the weather is hot, don't leave your crowbar laying on the ground... i'm guessing you guys call it a tamper or some such.

dunno whether this tiem has hit your market yet but the fencing contractors all rave about the marchant post driver. it needs lots of air. details here

 

[radman1]

I have seen hydraulic versions similar to the marchant post driver. For steel posts, something like that would be sweet. For me, the hydraulic version is nicer because I can run it off a skidsteer or CUT. Air driven requires another power unit.
I like the hot crowbar/tamper reminder. No matter where you live, the experiences are similar.

I have difficulty with curves. Getting a nice uniform arc to the fence is the time consuming task. Otherwise it is 1 post being to far in and the next too far out. I try marking the ground where the posts will be but after a several posts, I have to make some adjustments. I can't trust my help (nephews) to get it right. I am probably too particular. Most of my fencing is in pastures. The cows don't care how it looks but I can't stand looking at a bad fence for the next 40 years. When I was a teenager, my uncle helped us put some fence in. He didn't like tamping the holes and as a teenager, I had no issues with doing it like he did. Those posts leaned later and still remind me to this day on the value of proper post setting after 35 years.

 

[mouse]

uniform arcs should be simple enough using a bit of standard geometry, stuff like a string line from a central point for a semi-circle or from two points for something elliptical.

 

[ndnewbie]

We have always put the clay back down the hole, but its an incredible job. (Part of our problem has likely always been holes that were too small.) Clearly, the posts are there to stay that way.

However, for a job where a little speed is required, wow, did it work wll to use the pea gravel! Wife and I put in 45 posts in day and a half. Each post will be held to the next with three 2x6 rails. I do not think they will be going anywhere. Worked out great.

 

[mouse]

(Part of our problem has likely always been holes that were too small.)

i used to carry a thin 'tamping rod' for the holes where you struck that particular problem.

Each post will be held to the next with three 2x6 rails. I do not think they will be going anywhere. Worked out great.

till the horses start leaning against them...

 

[EddieWalker]

As a General Contractor/Handyman, I get quite a few jobs to repair fences that are falling apart. With the posts, it's always the same thing. The area at around the base of the post does not drain water. When it rains, water pools up around the base of the post and over time, it will rot out. I've never seen any significant rot on the post in the ground, regardless of what's used to hold it in place. Clay, gravel or concrete. Once I pull them out, they all look fine.

As the picture shows, this is the place where all the problems happen. If you use concrete, it is very, very important to create a slope above grade to drain away the water. If you use dirt or other materials, the same thing must be done.

I use a 12 inch auger bit when drilling holes. Even with this size bit, I need to use my clam shells to adjust some of the holes. The biggest issue that gets me is a root or underground rock that changes the direction of the bit. Sometimes, it can be pretty bad, but other times, it's just a small ajustment.

Before I start the auger, I've found that digging a small starter hole with my shovel helps allot in marking the spot to drill, and also keeping the bit in positing when it first starts. Of course, a root two inches down will ruin the best of plans!!!

I backfill with the dirt that comes out. I use the back end of my shovel and pound the dirt in layers. I shovel in some, then pound it into place. I do this until it's all in the hole and I'm building up a crown. This is actually my favorite part of putting them in.

Good luck,
Eddie

 

[radman1]

uniform arcs should be simple enough using a bit of standard geometry, stuff like a string line from a central point for a semi-circle or from two points for something elliptical.

The problem is the arc is not standard. Often curves one way, straightens for a short distance, then another curve. Often I am following the edge of creek bottoms, pastures etc. It really has to be done by sight. Often I have to put some of the posts in and then make adjustments as I proceed.

 

[ray66v]

If you use concrete, it is very, very important to create a slope above grade to drain away the water.

If you do that in Ohio, after one winter, the chances are good it will be out of the ground about 3". The wetter the ground, the better the chance the frost will pop it out.

Here, the best way is to leave the cement about 6" from the top, and finish it with dirt. This Dirt "cap" freezes first, and helps hold the post down.