Tire dimensions

[repete]

The other day I was looking at my L2550 and noticed it "leaned" to one side in the rear. Must have been a coincidence that I had it someplace with a level floor..

Anyway, I thought it really odd so I looked at the sizes and saw they were both 12.4 x 24 tires although one was 2-3" taller that the other and measured 10% wider. Anyone have any thoughts on tire consistency? My most serious issue is that the bucket no longer sits level and there may be a greater conflict between front and rear rotation when in 4WD although I only use 4WD when I need 4WD so on a "softer" surface.

Thoughts?

 

[oosik]

Different ply ratings. Different brands. I think you may be correct in your concern when in 4WD.

 

[repete]

If I were to buy a car tire no matter the brand, the "as built" dimensions would be the same. It is almost as though they took an existing mold and simply changed the tire embossing.
I have a rather steep driveway and therefor come down in 4WD as the rear just skids with brakes. When I get to the bottom I have to stop and back up a bit to get it shifted out.
Do you know of a site that can be a definitive source of "industry standard" tire dimensions when mounted oosik?

 

[sea2summit]

What are the pressures in each? Same manufacturer/type?

 

[repete]

Same pressures, different manufacturers.

 

[oosik]

I use Les Schwab for all my tire needs. I'm sure they could fix you up with an exact match to either tire.

 

[repete]

Both of my tires were replaced by Les Schwab. I need to research this more as the TractorData specs call for 11.2 x 24 on the rear and it has increased to 12.4 of two different heights so......

 

[LD1]

What are the brands/models of the rears? What about the fronts? Any pictures? Is one worn alot more than the other?

IF it calls for 11.2-24....the fronts are probably supposed to be 7-16's. And if you went to 12.4 rears....you are being very hard on your 4wd components. You are basically trying to PUSH the front wheels faster than they want to go. They are trying to hold you back. Which is the OPPOSITE if what you want. You want the fronts to be slightly (like a few %) faster.

Id NOT use 4wd unless absolutely necessary until this is fixed.

 

[RancherGuy]

Both of my tires were replaced by Les Schwab. I need to research this more as the TractorData specs call for 11.2 x 24 on the rear and it has increased to 12.4 of two different heights so......

Rolling circumference is the concern here. In 4wd, the manufacturer calculates the front to be slightly faster than the rear, thus they tend to pull. If you have changed tire width, the rolling circumference probably changed too, and there is no assurance that different tire makers will produce the exact circumference that another does. That's not one of the measurements.

I can suggest that you consider something I did last year. I was using my rotary shredder in the woods and went over a large tree limb piece one too many times. One of the blades broke (at the bolt) and headed for a rear tire. It went through the tire and hit the rim. I tried to find the exact tire and discovered that it was discontinued. I did not want to pay for shipping, from warehouse stock, half way across the country. So I bought a "matching specs" tire from my local tractor tire dealer. After mounting, it was slightly different. There was now 20 years age difference and I really preferred them to be identical.

I ended up selling the undamaged old tire, in very good condition, with 1000 hours on craigslist for $350. I turned around and bought a new tire from my dealer to match my other new tire for $420.

You may not want to do what I did, but the point is that if your dealer does not want to make good on a matched pair, you can ALWAYS sell a good tractor tire and hopefully the cost difference is not too much.

This does not impact your rolling circumference issue, but it should address the front bucket level issue.