Ballast TLB 110 - To Fill or Not to Fill

[jenkinsph]

There are a lot of people on this board with loaded rear tires on various tractors. Here we have one of the heavier built machines with a stronger frame that is made for constuction duty and you guys seem more afraid to load the tires.

I guess it depends what you are using your tractor for. I pull a heavy trailer up and down the road at times, I'm in the woods on hills, grading inclines, etc. I know the loaded tires give me much more stability and safety and they are never in the way (don't forget braking in 2wd is only your rear tires, the more weight on them the better). I have over 500 hrs on my 110 and have had 0 problems. From what you have described I think loading the tires will be the best option.

A 110 with the hoe removed weighs about 6000 lbs., with only 43 hp available that is plenty of weight to accomplish most tasks. I have the 1250 lb. boxblade mentioned in Kenny's post and can pull it overflowing without additional weight. That boxblade will carry about 1 1/4 cu. yds so alot of dirt.

 

[ME83]

I admit that if I always had the backhoe or my heavy box blade on the back I would not need the tires loaded. However I also use the 110 for all other uses like mowing, dragging, rakes, etc. Since I only own 30 acres there is no need for me to buy another tractor, would be nice but too much money when I would just assume be on the 110 anyways. If you are using the 110 for it's intended purposes, construction orientated work, don't load the tires. If you also use it for general farming type work on land with inclines, load them. This tractor is very light in the rear and it's tippy on the side hills without help.

 

[AKfish]

I admit that if I always had the backhoe or my heavy box blade on the back I would not need the tires loaded. However I also use the 110 for all other uses like mowing, dragging, rakes, etc. Since I only own 30 acres there is no need for me to buy another tractor, would be nice but too much money when I would just assume be on the 110 anyways. If you are using the 110 for it's intended purposes, construction orientated work, don't load the tires. If you also use it for general farming type work on land with inclines, load them. This tractor is very light in the rear and it's tippy on the side hills without help.

I use my 110 more for a farm machine than any other purpose. Disc mowing, raking, tedding, spreading fertilizer and running a JD 336 baler.

It does all those chores exceptionally well - aside from adequate on the baler - if the windrows are not too heavy.

I drop the bucket for most all the farm chores. Especially if I've got a light attachment on the rear. I don't want any more weight on my fields than is necessary. You ever seen a hay field in the Spring after a big tractor has been out there too early with a load of fertilizer? Not a pretty sight...

I've got wheel spacers. Helps with stability and makes having rear chains on for the woods and winter snow removal an easier and safer option.

Have a rear ballast box with iMatch for heavy loader work without the hoe. Moving hay bales, dirt and gravel, etc.

Filled tires would likely be more of a "problem" for me than a help... Have ~900 hours now and only a "chirping" front steering valve... since new!

AKfish

 

[gonepackin]

Operators manual; page 40; recommends having liquid tire ballast done by a Deere dealer or tire service store.
In the discussion and the operators manual it seems 'ballast' is used interchangeably ...with confusion.
Ballast weights and liquid tire ballast are different cats.
After a few tipping point experiences I had liquid ballast put in the rear and front tires by a tire center. Much improvement.
Cost was $4 per gallon and the bill came to $279. They've used a commercial beet-juice-based compound for several years with good results. No freezing, no corrosion, no biohazard.