scruffy
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HBTC - Congratulations on your purchase! Hope you get lots of enjoyment out of it, as well as lots of work!
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TN65 NH Info.
- Thread starter HBTC
- Start date
- Views: 6711
Thanks Jim, Glad to hear some incouraging words. I'm on vacation next week, some mowing and fall plowing is in my plans, I get to try those buttons some. My dealer had to deliver my tractor, it wouldn't fit on my railed trailor, tires to wide. As we was about to leave, I jokingly remarked to the mechanics in the shop that I hoped they never see it again. To my surprise they said we want to see it at seventy hours, they will come to my place (25 mi) and service it for just the cost of the oil and filters. You could have knocked me over with a feather. If any of you live near the West Tennessee area, I would certainly recommend Henson Equipment Co. in Henderson.
Anonymous Poster
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One small problem that I had and that you may want to address as a precaution pertains to the 1-2-3-4 gear selector and the differential lock. If you look up under the foot platform on the right side of the tractor that both of these items have linkage that pivots. This linkage is assembled without lubrication prior to painting. At about 60 hours both sets of linkage siezed within a week of each other. My tractor is kept inside, but I have used it and/or transported it in the rain. Because the shafts were siezed it was very hard to get them apart. A little anti-sieze has solved the problem and I doubt that it will re-occur. You might want to spray some penetrating lubricant or graphite on these moving parts just as a precaution. My dealer has sold a lot of TN's and I am the only one to report the problem, but why chance it.
Also, you may find that the rear end is a little on the light side when doing heavy loader work. Even with ballast in the tires a full (heaping) bucket of top soil or clay will make the rear tires dance under the right conditions. You can buy 108# wheel weights (shown in some of the literature pictures) from your dealer for around $70 each plus hardware. I am just getting around to buying these and will probably start with 2 weights per side to try and calm the rear end a little. A ballast box would also work, but I prefer the more perminant wheel weights.
Another little tip that I've found is that you need to use a combination of the draft control and lift control when plowing with a mounted (3-pt) plow. If you just use the draft control, it wants to "hunt" too much and ends up allowing the plow to go too deep. By setting the maximum depth limit with the lift controls and then set the draft control just above that point and it will pull real smooth. On our other tractors all you had to do is set the draft control and go. I think that the difference is that the TN's draft control senses from the bottom link as opposed to most older tractors sense draft from the top link. Also, this is where the express raise/lower buttons really come in handy.
Hope you enjoy your tractor as much as I do.
Also, you may find that the rear end is a little on the light side when doing heavy loader work. Even with ballast in the tires a full (heaping) bucket of top soil or clay will make the rear tires dance under the right conditions. You can buy 108# wheel weights (shown in some of the literature pictures) from your dealer for around $70 each plus hardware. I am just getting around to buying these and will probably start with 2 weights per side to try and calm the rear end a little. A ballast box would also work, but I prefer the more perminant wheel weights.
Another little tip that I've found is that you need to use a combination of the draft control and lift control when plowing with a mounted (3-pt) plow. If you just use the draft control, it wants to "hunt" too much and ends up allowing the plow to go too deep. By setting the maximum depth limit with the lift controls and then set the draft control just above that point and it will pull real smooth. On our other tractors all you had to do is set the draft control and go. I think that the difference is that the TN's draft control senses from the bottom link as opposed to most older tractors sense draft from the top link. Also, this is where the express raise/lower buttons really come in handy.
Hope you enjoy your tractor as much as I do.
Jim, thanks very much, those points you raised are good information. I'll be sure to oil that linkage and shaft you speak of. Great tip on lift settings for plowing. I plan to use a 14 inch 3 bottom plow, we have a four and a two bottom, I am taking one plow off the four bottom unit before using it with this tractor. What size do you pull? Also what size disc do you use?
John
John
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John:
We have a 2x14 mounted and a 3x16 semi mounted. No problems with each. An old timer once told me you needed 1 HP per inch of plow...But that was with out front assist. A four bottom 16 or 18 would probably be pushing it a little hard, especially in sod. If your 3x14 is mounted, you might need some extra weight on the front end if you remove the loader like I do. It is ok with the 2 bottom, but I could see where some extra weight on the nose could not hurt.
The disc is 10' transport style, again no problems.
I can't say that anything we've done has been too much for the tractor. We farm about 50 acres, so none of the implements we use are really that large. Probably the worst was a NH 316 baler doing double raked rows of alfalfa. Kind of made the tractor chug a little on the compression stroke of the plunger. We were still in 3 or 4 gear which is plenty fast with a baler and wagon attached.
Tractor definately has enough hydraulics to do anything you would ask of it. I have had to reweld the cylinder mounts on the disc and haybine already. Wish that they had put flow control on the remotes like some of their larger tractors.
Jim
We have a 2x14 mounted and a 3x16 semi mounted. No problems with each. An old timer once told me you needed 1 HP per inch of plow...But that was with out front assist. A four bottom 16 or 18 would probably be pushing it a little hard, especially in sod. If your 3x14 is mounted, you might need some extra weight on the front end if you remove the loader like I do. It is ok with the 2 bottom, but I could see where some extra weight on the nose could not hurt.
The disc is 10' transport style, again no problems.
I can't say that anything we've done has been too much for the tractor. We farm about 50 acres, so none of the implements we use are really that large. Probably the worst was a NH 316 baler doing double raked rows of alfalfa. Kind of made the tractor chug a little on the compression stroke of the plunger. We were still in 3 or 4 gear which is plenty fast with a baler and wagon attached.
Tractor definately has enough hydraulics to do anything you would ask of it. I have had to reweld the cylinder mounts on the disc and haybine already. Wish that they had put flow control on the remotes like some of their larger tractors.
Jim
Jim Thanks again for your information it makes for interesting reading. Your last paragraph grabbed my attention. The few minutes I played with my new remote cylinder attached to the TN65 kind of indicated that it didn't have any detents on the remote control lever. All the tractors that I have operated in the past (180 MF, 5000 Ford, etc) had a detent that would hold the lever in the up or down position until the cylinder bottomed out then the lever would kick back to center. So does this TN65 not do that?
Anonymous Poster
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I opted for the 3rd factory remote and it does have the detent funtion you are used to. If you only have the dual remote controlled by the joystick there is not a detent funtion(that I'm aware of). I don't think that the detent funtion would work well with a loader...If you don't have the third remote it can be added.
Jim
My tractor came from the factory with one rear remote with a green handle. My loader is a Woods with a Woods joystick mounted on the loader frame, this was about $500 less than the NH fender mounted control. Also the loader control is totally independant of the one rear remote that came on the tractor. I'll bet I have to get some other type valve for my rear remote in order to have detents. Comments appreciated.
My tractor came from the factory with one rear remote with a green handle. My loader is a Woods with a Woods joystick mounted on the loader frame, this was about $500 less than the NH fender mounted control. Also the loader control is totally independant of the one rear remote that came on the tractor. I'll bet I have to get some other type valve for my rear remote in order to have detents. Comments appreciated.
Anonymous Poster
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You should be OK then...At first I thought that mine did not have the detent function either. Was there a load on the cylinder when you tested it? It took me a couple of times to get the feel of the lever. I don't know this for sure or not, but it is almost as if there are two positions in each direction. Initially I think that I was pushing the lever too far. Once you try it for real you will see what I mean.
W5FL
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HBTC,
I started out to buy a NH or JD, but I bought the Kubota M6800 (68 HP). I found several tractors on dealer's lots that were a lot more than 1 year old. I also had a great deal of trouble finding out exactly what they were quoting since there were a lot of options of everything including tires and you would get a quote that was lower from one dealer and find out that it did not include the same things that I wanted.
The Kubota came with everything and the only option was the loader and quick attach kit. Everything else came standard. I got my tractor as one of the first few hundered manufacturing lot for the 2000 modesl that came out in April 2000. I share your same concern and was glad to get everything in a very simple straightforward design. Mine is a 8F/8R. I do consider the 4WD to be problem free based on the way it is designed it has no U joints or constant velocity joints and the ground clearance is large. The M6800 is the larges of the Kubota M Series that comes on the short wheel base frame, and I needed that maneuverability. It is 62HP PTO and like you, I would have taken it in 2WD, but with a loader, that is not a good decision. The M Series are economically priced, and very well designed and built tractors.
I started out to buy a NH or JD, but I bought the Kubota M6800 (68 HP). I found several tractors on dealer's lots that were a lot more than 1 year old. I also had a great deal of trouble finding out exactly what they were quoting since there were a lot of options of everything including tires and you would get a quote that was lower from one dealer and find out that it did not include the same things that I wanted.
The Kubota came with everything and the only option was the loader and quick attach kit. Everything else came standard. I got my tractor as one of the first few hundered manufacturing lot for the 2000 modesl that came out in April 2000. I share your same concern and was glad to get everything in a very simple straightforward design. Mine is a 8F/8R. I do consider the 4WD to be problem free based on the way it is designed it has no U joints or constant velocity joints and the ground clearance is large. The M6800 is the larges of the Kubota M Series that comes on the short wheel base frame, and I needed that maneuverability. It is 62HP PTO and like you, I would have taken it in 2WD, but with a loader, that is not a good decision. The M Series are economically priced, and very well designed and built tractors.
