TO-20 carburator problem??

[buckeyepost]

The normal setting for the power jet is about 1-1/4 turns (+/- 1/8 turn) out. Never go below one full turn out since this engine needs the charge cooling that occurs due to a slightly rich mixture.

Thanks! Yeah, I played with it a little because it was set at about 2 1/2 when I got it and I think I ended up keeping it around 1 1/2. But, regardless of where I had the carb needle set it was doing the same things I listed above... racing, lurching forward, the throttle just seems too loose or something causeing the flap to fully open and then close repeating over and over....

 

[Jerry/MT]

Thanks! Yeah, I played with it a little because it was set at about 2 1/2 when I got it and I think I ended up keeping it around 1 1/2. But, regardless of where I had the carb needle set it was doing the same things I listed above... racing, lurching forward, the throttle just seems too loose or something causeing the flap to fully open and then close repeating over and over....

If I were you and you were running at 2-1/2 turns open on the main jet, I'd pull the plugs and clean the carbon off them because they are probably dry fouled with soot from too rich a mixture. Then check and see if the problem still occurs.

If it does you'll have to check the governor adjustment because that rod that moves the throttle comes from the governor. You'll need to get the Ferguson Shop Manual for directions on how to do that procedure. Log on to Yesterdaystractors.com and go to the Ferguson Forum and ask for a guy name Jeff(OH). He knows where to get manuals for under $20.

Is it still flooding? These carbs are reallys sensitive to the float setting and most of us guys with Fergusons shut the fuel tank off after shutdown so they don't flood. Sometimes the floats hang up and a sharp rap with a piece of wood will let them close. They can also get bit of dirt in the float valve that won't let the valve close. You'll have to pull it off to deal with the float valve so if you go that far, buy a can of real carb cleaner, the kind you soak the whole carb in and give it a good cleaning, at least 24 hours in the solution. Then blow out all the passages with compressed air and make sure they are clear. Cleaning is probably the most important part of a rebuild. Buy a rebuild kit and replace the gaskets, the needles , and the float valve. These are pretty rugged carbs and they are easy to rebuild.

 

[irvingj]

Another alternative to strong carb cleaners --I use this on my motorcycles-- see if you can find a shop that has an ultrasonic cleaner. They work very well, and require only water & air to rinse & clean afterward. Also won't hurt any rubber parts, as they only use water as the dunking solution....

 

[buckeyepost]

Thanks guys! I am going to pull the plugs tomorrow and check them. I also shut the fuel off after I'm done running it. I just bought a shop manual on ebay. I tried running it again yesterday and it ran fine for a while but when I hooked up the mower deck and try to run the pto it bogs down and dies. It's like it can't handle any type of load and the higher the rpms are the worse it gets. I'm starting to think that it is the governor. Are they a pain to change/work on? I think I also need a water pump because after it has been running at a higher rpm and i drop it down to idle antifreeze just starts dumping out of the center of the water pump (I think). It ran dry yesterday and it started smoking and overheating so I stopped it and added almost 2 gallons of antifreeze/water. So are the water pumps a pain to change too? Might as well do them both at the same time, huh? Thanks again for the help, this forum is all I have for trying to learn about this old girl and everyone is very helpful.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Thanks guys! I am going to pull the plugs tomorrow and check them. I also shut the fuel off after I'm done running it. I just bought a shop manual on ebay. I tried running it again yesterday and it ran fine for a while but when I hooked up the mower deck and try to run the pto it bogs down and dies. It's like it can't handle any type of load and the higher the rpms are the worse it gets. I'm starting to think that it is the governor. Are they a pain to change/work on? I think I also need a water pump because after it has been running at a higher rpm and i drop it down to idle antifreeze just starts dumping out of the center of the water pump (I think). It ran dry yesterday and it started smoking and overheating so I stopped it and added almost 2 gallons of antifreeze/water. So are the water pumps a pain to change too? Might as well do them both at the same time, huh? Thanks again for the help, this forum is all I have for trying to learn about this old girl and everyone is very helpful.

You wanna' be real careful not to overheat the Continental engine on the TO-'s. They are prone to cracking blocks if they overheat.
The water pump is ez to replace. It's on the front of the block and now that you have a manual you'll know how to do it. Don't futz with the governor until you that your plugs are cleaned and your mixture set correctly. Make sure that you spark is good( FAT AND BLUISH-WHITE, the color of lightning), your timing is correct and the advance is working properly. Make sure that your air filter is not clogged because that will reduce poweroutput by reducing the airflow to the engine. Also make sure that you have adequate fuel flow. Open the tank valve and hold a suitable container under the carb and emobve trhe big plug. Fuel should gush out like a cow peein' on a flat rock.If it dribbles or is intermittent, work back from the carb ( the fuel inlet on the carb has a strainer on it so check that) to the tank and find the restriction. If it's not there, then the carb has to come off so you can check the floats and the float valve. if these diagnostic checks don't solve your problem then it's time to consider the governor. 85% of the time, these engine performance problems are caused by ignition system problems, 14% 0f the time they are caused by fuel delivery, and 1% by other causes. So check the spark and the fuel before you even consider messing with the governor.

I'd strongly advise you to go to Yesterday's Tractors web site and ask your questions there. There are a bazillion years of Ferguson TO- experience available to you.

 

[buckeyepost]

Wow! Thanks again. I don't know if I need to go to Yesterday's Tractor after that (plus, their forum is harder to use). I'm glad to hear that the water pump is easy to replace because that was going to be my starting point anyway since it's obviously bad. And I know the fuel is getting to the carb b/c it floods very easily and I have drained it many times. I don't even choke it when I start it and only give it a tiny bit of throttle and it fires right up. I have cleaned out the fuel line/carb strainer and it was clogged up pretty good. I also cleaned out the air screen but the oil looked fine in the bottom so I didn't mess with it. I'm not sure how to check spark, timing or the advance but maybe when I get my manual it will explain those things. Thanks again Jerry! By the way my name is Jerry too.

 

[Jerry/MT]

Wow! Thanks again. I don't know if I need to go to Yesterday's Tractor after that (plus, their forum is harder to use). I'm glad to hear that the water pump is easy to replace because that was going to be my starting point anyway since it's obviously bad. And I know the fuel is getting to the carb b/c it floods very easily and I have drained it many times. I don't even choke it when I start it and only give it a tiny bit of throttle and it fires right up. I have cleaned out the fuel line/carb strainer and it was clogged up pretty good. I also cleaned out the air screen but the oil looked fine in the bottom so I didn't mess with it. I'm not sure how to check spark, timing or the advance but maybe when I get my manual it will explain those things. Thanks again Jerry! By the way my name is Jerry too.

When you get to the point that you need to check the spark and the timing and advance, I'll walk you through it. You'll need a timing light to check the advance mechanism and it makes it easier to set the initial timing also..

 

[buckeyepost]

Well, replaced the water pump (piece of cake) but that didn't fix the problem, it needed replaced anyway though. Took the carb to a guy who has a good reputation working on old tractors, he's going to soak it and rebuild it and have it back to me tomorrow and only charging me $40. If every business today would be this quick and affordable I think the world would be a better place! Crossing my fingers on this thing working, my grass is waist high now...

 

[buckeyepost]

Clean, rebuilt carb and she's runnning again like new! No hesitation and more power and responsiveness than it's ever had. I mowed 3 feet of wet grass up hill and she didn't even flinch. Thanks everyone for your help, especially Jerry. I guess there is a reason that everyone says if somethings not running right, check the carb 1st!

 

[irvingj]

Glad to hear you got it, buckeye! On my old motorcycles, probably 98% of the time I spend on getting them going is on the carbs. All those little passages....