TO-20 electrical short?

[tommu56]

Went to try this and now I got not spark at the plugs, got it at the wire coming off the coil but the plugs have not spark. Bypassed the resistor to see if it helped and got a little spark but not much. Could this be wires, cap and rotor? This thing is drving me nuts!!!

Pull the cap off and look at the rotor crank engine make sure it turns look in cap how does it look?

bypassing the resistor will just boost the voltage to the coil and boost the output from the coil


We need some on in your neighbor hood to help you.

tom

 

[banjodunn]

G'day replace the condensor in the distributor it sounds to me that as the condensor warms up it is dragging your power away from the points usually you can see a bad condensor by the face of the points they will be burnt and pitted. Also check where the bolt for the supply wire goes through the side of the distributor that all the insulation washers are ok . Keep us informed of your progress


Jon

 

[tommu56]

G'day replace the condensor in the distributor it sounds to me that as the condensor warms up it is dragging your power away from the points usually you can see a bad condensor by the face of the points they will be burnt and pitted. Also check where the bolt for the supply wire goes through the side of the distributor that all the insulation washers are ok . Keep us informed of your progress


Jon

Good catch even take it out to test but don't run for long or the points will burn up even more.

tom

 

[buckeyepost]

Thanks guys.... my buddy who is an auto mechanic said the cap didn't look too bad. We cleaned it up with some sand paper but that didn't do anything. I figure it could be replaced anyway along with the wires but he doesn't seem to think that's the main problem. The points and condensor are new and they look to be ok. I will check the washers for the supply wire to the distributor, not really familar with that but should be easy to find???

We still think there is something up with the fuel mixture too. The plugs are black when we pull them out and when it trys to start it just chugs slowly and blows black smoke out of the exhaust. We tried to bypass the fuel tank and bowl by running gas straight into the fuel line to the carb but we couldn't get it started. I've got to be getting close! I've done soooo much already... my patience is running out though.... :confused2:

 

[banjodunn]

G'day the wires i am talking about run from the coil to the distributor body but it sounds like you are flooding up, which model carb have you got? You may have a bad float level or bad needle and seat or maybe mixture screws not set right.


Jon

 

[buckeyepost]

I forget the model, does a TSX sound familiar? I had the carb rebuilt and I have since cleaned it out. My fuel/sediment bowl had the screen missing on the nozzle that sticks up into the gas tank so I replaced that with a brand new one last weekend. Maybe I should take the carb apart again and clean it out in case it had something small get lodged in the jet???

I think I have more than one problem so I'll check the wires too.
:confused2::confused2::confused2::confused2:

 

[buckeyepost]

Ok.... I'm done with this thing. I took it to a guy who has rebuilt a dozen or so tractors and has a good reputation for getting things to work. He went through the carb, set the timing and replaced the 6V condensor with the correct 12V one. He tinkered with a few other electrical things and also checked compression. 3 cylinders at 60 and number two was at 30. He tells me they should be around 100 but just for mowing it would be fine. Tractor started and ran fine there but didn't have any load on it.

Got it back to the house and hooked the mower deck up and started mowing. Seemed to be pretty strong but after about 20 minutes the vent at the bottom of the radiator started steaming so I stopped it and added coolant, no big deal. About another 20 minutes and it is noticably losing power and bogging down. Radiator started steaming AGAIN so I stopped and filled it back up and also tightened the belt a little thinking that would help. Well, after it gets hot it doesn't have much power so I just pulled it into the shed so I wouldn't have to leave it dead in the yard. Do I need a new radiator or what?

Regardless, I can't keep wasting my time and money on this tractor. I'm planning to sell it once I get it running properly and get something newer. Anyone want to buy it? Make an offer... has a 60" Woods finish mower.

 

[henrysMFGC2310TBL]

I don't know how the tractors are wired but most car 12V points systems do not use full 12V for running. The are fed 12V on start up and then about 9V on run, through a ballast resistor, to preserve the points. Also a bad condenser will cause problems. This may not be your problem but just throwing it out and someone with tractor experience will enlighten me.

 

[buckeyepost]

I did find out a few parts were for the old 6V system. I have looked all over the place for a 12V wiring diagram for my tractor and can't seem to find one. Does anyone know where there is a good one? I need to rewire a couple of things but don't know where they go. The resistor and wiring was removed so I don't know what goes where now. Any help would be great. Thanks!