TO 20 sticking clutch soln

[Paddy]

I have a '47 TO 20. Years ago the clutch petal started not returing very well. At first I cobbed some springs to help. As you can imagine, it was hard to push the petal down while sitting. Eventualy, I had to bend down a grab it with my hand. Dangerus and diffacult. Ever one I spoke with said I would have to have the tractor split.

So I deside to try some thing as a last try. The clutch uses a shaft that can be seen rotating from both sides. I drilled a 1/8" hole in the casting until I hit the shaft. I took a propain torch to it at the shaft area/casting. Working it up and down by hand. Before cooling I oiled it. Again working it up and down. After two more cycles of heating and oil, she works as new!

Has any one else had this problem? What was your soln?

Patrick

 

[Soundguy]

You got lucky.. your clutch release shaft was merely binding in the casting. Most sticky clutches are the result of a tranny input shaft or rear main engine seal lak, oiling the clutch disk, making it grab the flywheel. That or a clutchdisc that surface rusts to the flywheel. The two I mentioned can be 'helped' by blocking the clutch down when not in use.

Soundguy

 

[Paddy]

I do feel lucky. Now on to the 3 point hitch. It has little power to lift the implement, grader blade. Best results are when at full throtle.

Quincy at www.junktractors.com also here in Bloomington, IN, says both cylinders and pistons are in stock. He reccomended just a new piston and rings.

I hope to get the HF TO 20 up to par. A friend moved out of town several years ago to your neck of the woods, Orlando, FL. He left the TO 20 with me because it had problems and didn't see much need for it. Well now he lives on a private 1 mile sand road. Constantly needs grading. SO...I'm trying to get her spifted up and deliver her to him for X-mas.

Then I will need a tractor to replace it! Say a 30Hp Yanmar

Patrick

 

[Soundguy]

I don't have a ferguson manual with me.. but as i remember, the lift and pump are similar to the 9n/2n ( but not the 8n ). Generally we N people use an upgraded NAA style piston that uses an oring, and a backup leather washer, instead of the OEM 3 steel ring piston. The oring is much more forgiving.

However.. you would deffinately get great performance out of a new piston and steel rings if you also replaced the cylinder. For the N, the cyl is about 90 bucks.. so most people just jse a brake hone and hone it and then go with the 33 dollar naa piston and orings, vs the 90 dollar cylinder and 3$ rings.

I'll look and see if the t0-2- can use the N/NAA lift piston and orings. Would deffinately save you some money ( 60 bucks or so depending on your cost from that dealer )..

Keep in mind you will need a top gasket set, and probably a side cover gasket as well.

Soundguy

 

[Paddy]

Thanks Sound Guy.

 

[Soundguy]

It looks like the TO-20 can use the naa piston and orings. i would caution this though. If the cylinder is badly scored, so much that a light honing won't clean it up.. I would deffinately replace the cylinder, and then with that new cylinder.. I would go back in with the oem 3 steel rings on the old piston, as long as the piston grooves were still good ( new piston is about 28 bucks if you do need one ). If you do an't more than light honing.. you open the clearances up to much and even the fat oring won't seal it good. And with a new cylinder, I think the 3 steel rings will do a better job than the oring/backup washer.. jmho.

You'll be replacing about 3 gaskets under the cylinder as well.. make sure you have all parts in hand before you start working.. makes it go easier and faster.

Don't put any gasket pucky on the top cover gasket... that is a leading cause of the gasket blowing out in the top right hand corner where the pressure standpipe is located..

Soundguy

 

[Paddy]

SoundGuy,

Ok, I'm pulling it the garage tonight to give it a look see. I have a local parts house that has everthing in stock.

He agreed with you. I feel since it will lift but slowly and with very little power, it has to be just seals/rings. He said it can be at the cyclinder/piston area or the pump area. Both can be fixed.

How diffaclt is this?

Thanks for your help,

Pat

 

[Soundguy]

Pull a side cover ( right), and peer in.. I'll bet you see an oil leak from the mouth of the cylinder, or from the top right corner, or a swirling in the oil in the bottom right corner, or near the control valve on the pump.. Possible from between pump side chamber covers... these are the big leaking points.

Just seals and gaskets. I pulled my 8n top cover, disassembled to hone the cylinder, replaced 4 gaskets, added new piston with oring and backup washer, dropped the belly pump ( had to pull pto shaft ).. cleaned out the pump and sump area with kerosene, replaced the check/relief valve, resealed with 3 gaskets, and reassembled including a new gasket for the side cover and for the pto flange for less than a hundred bucks.. and that included shipping and a brake hone from napa for my power drill. Took me about 9 hours. I did it over a long weekend as I didn't have 9 hours straight. Put down plenty of newspaper as you WILL make a big oily mess when the pump comes out. Get some razor blades to scrape mating surfaces.. and use mineral spirits or diesel or kerosene as a cleaner. NO gasket pucky on the top cover/bottom cover/pump/cylinder gaskets. Pto flange gasket and inspection cover is OK to use gasket pucky.

The job I did was on my 8n.. and it would take similar time on a 9/2n.. just a tad different valve linkage setups ( arms vs forks )... your t0-20 will be identical to the 9n/2n rebuild... and ths take about the same amount of time.. unless problems are encountered.

Take your time cleaning the gasket surfaces.... it will pay off with no leaks.

Also.. that pump weighs about? 40-50# and the top cover weighs about? 65-75#. I did it by myself.. I'm 5'6" and 160#... Most of the tools were socket and torque wrench and cleaning supplies... manual had pics to help if needed and for reference for torque for fasteners. Don't worry... no rocket science involved ( just fluid dynamics! ).

Soundguy

 

[Paddy]

Here one for...did you check the fluid level first!? I pulled the cover below the control lever. Took a peek inside only to find the fluid level was 3-4" below the lowest cover bolt hole. OK, that was a knuckle head move. I guess I should not have assumed he was maintaing the beast.

So when NAPA opens next A.M., I will drain all the old oil out. Refill with new. Hope it does the job. If not, I will continue as planed.

I did notice an odd thing. With the tractor not running, I moved the control lever as to lift. It only moved 1/4" at the pin where it attaches. Then, when moving the control lever to the position to lower, it moved 2" at the pin. Like it was really unbalanced from raising and lowering. Sound normal?

I did get a service manual. The ss No. is TO-3774. I was told it is a TO-20, but never sure.

The saga continues......

SoundGuy,

Why does it seem so many engineers play with tractors?

Physics, it's not just fun..it's the law!

 

[Soundguy]

Hard to say without seeing it. Since that fergy system is like a 9n/2n, and not an 8n. However, there are adjustments that can be made to the quadrant... you'r may be out of adjustment.

I asume the movement you were talking about was at the control forks?

Check to see how much travel the control valve on the pump has.. that should give you an idea of the range of movement the hytrol lever/fork linkage should have. ( It's possible your hytrol lever may not be opening the intake valve all the way up.. thus no hyd output.. etc... )

Soundguy