To bushhog or not to bushhog

   / To bushhog or not to bushhog #21  
I brush hog my fields about every other year. I would do it every year but can't find the time to do it all. If I let it go three years, the briers, pine seedlings, and scrubby brush take over. I notice that whenever I mow a field there is a definite increase in game activity -- primarily deer and turkey. I think the mowing exposes the fresh growth and makes it easier to find.

And yes, my tractor grills are just covered with fluffy stuff from ripe goldenrod -- they come out looking like a sweater.

Horses are the same way. If you mow the pasture it is like a new pasture to them and they find the good eats. If you let it grow a bit (even a couple inches) they stay away. Odd behavior, but you can manage the grazing just by bush hog a different area.
 
   / To bushhog or not to bushhog #22  
My activities on a 120 acre sheep farm here in SE Michigan would indicate that if you do not cut your fields for about 3 years, you will afterwards incur enormous expense to return them to a state suitable for even growing hay, which has to be about the least expensive agricultural land use out there. In most parts that have zoning laws, if you are not engaging in some "legitimate" form of agricultural activity, you will lose your ag status and the increased property taxes will almost certainly force you off your land and destroy the resale value since any new owner would initially have to endure the new high taxes and then over a period of up to 3 years convince the local township office that they were indeed engaging in "real" agricultural activities. Loss of ag status can also have a huge impact on what kind of activities are permitted on the land, the kinds of structures permitted (especially if it is something new).

I have found that hardwood saplings can reach a diameter of close to 2" at the base in 3 years and cutting those and getting rid of the roots if there is any kind of density involved (often they grow 1-2 ft apart and at times even closer) is a major undertaking if this is happening simultaneously on 120 acres. If that 120 acres was divided into multiple 20 acre fields with hedgerows then the hardwood is encroaching relentlessly from both sides of the hedgerow into the fields on either side and it is a constant battle to keep it in check. A 3/4" sapling can do quite a bit of damage to hay equipment, the same applies to sticks falling off trees at the edges of a field.

If you have vulnerable livestock like sheep, the hedgerows provide ideal cover and refuge for predators and deer hunting cannot compensate for the losses you will experience due to the "deer habitat". If you do not have vulnerable livestock (all you do is produce hay for sale), then at least the "deer habitat" does not pose any additional risks to your business venture, beyond keeping it in check.

In my experience you want to mow any fields at least once a year. Fall is often the best time, provided it is dry enough that one is not making any ruts due to the mowing activity. Spring is usually wet enough where one does have to be concerned about ruts, and once the vegetation gets started, it grows high enough in a short time to hide any kind of obstacles, fallen over fence posts etc and of course if growing hay you don't want to brush hog anything that could be productively baled.

If starting from scratch, a drum mower and small round baler for hay production is the least tedious way to go since there is none of the manual handling that one has with square bales and considerably fewer bales to handle. This activity means that brush hogging is primarily confined to the field edges and any trails that you may have and those one may cut a few times a year so they are easy to walk or ride with a UTV.
 
   / To bushhog or not to bushhog #23  
Another alternative to mowing or taking a disk to it is to burn it. The grasses will come back beautiful in the spring.
 
   / To bushhog or not to bushhog #24  
For me I wouldn't want to mow the entire thing. I'd leave some areas for food plots, maybe even some areas for fruit trees, but let most of it grow. With hunting pressure deer don't like wide open areas during the daylight too much. If I were in your situation I would print out some satellite photos and get a good feel for the land. Then I would think about where I would want to have some 1-2 acre food plots, where I want stands, and where access roads to fields and stands would be. I always like to have my stands where I can get in and out with as little noise as possible, without the need of a flashlight, and without having to walk past where the deer would be. I'd mark all that out and mow that, but let the rest grow so the deer have more cover and bedding areas.

I kind of did a small version of that this year, keeping just 2 acres of a 5-6 acre field, and letting the rest grow.
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2020 BERGMANN C815S DUMP TRUCK (A51246)
2020 BERGMANN...
2016 Ford Focus SE Sedan (A51694)
2016 Ford Focus SE...
2013 Big Tex 16GP-20 Gooseneck Trailer (A53117)
2013 Big Tex...
Guard Rail Pieces (A51692)
Guard Rail Pieces...
John Deere Gator XUV835M 4X4 Utility Cart (A48082)
John Deere Gator...
2018 Mazda CX-5 SUV (A51694)
2018 Mazda CX-5...
 
Top