To do... or not to do... 2001 Tahoe 199,000 ... no reverse

   / To do... or not to do... 2001 Tahoe 199,000 ... no reverse #41  
When I was having transmission problems way back then it seemed like every tranny shop I talked to told me they were weak. Now a search on the same transmission says that a 4l60 is one of the best out there.
 
   / To do... or not to do... 2001 Tahoe 199,000 ... no reverse #42  
When I was having transmission problems way back then it seemed like every tranny shop I talked to told me they were weak. Now a search on the same transmission says that a 4l60 is one of the best out there.

Never had a problem with one, around here they were always considered great tranny's.
 
   / To do... or not to do... 2001 Tahoe 199,000 ... no reverse #43  
The GM 4L60 is notorious for a weak sun gear shell, absolutely not worth risking a scrap yard trans. It will cost more in the long run when the same thing happens.

7��R4 4L6�E 4L65E Heavy Duty "Beast" Sunshell

The first gen of the 700R was considered weak. After that, they are no different than any other. If you want to build up a motor with big HP and torque, then yes, you should up-build that tranny. For stock, it is fine.
 
   / To do... or not to do... 2001 Tahoe 199,000 ... no reverse #44  
The first gen of the 700R was considered weak. After that, they are no different than any other. If you want to build up a motor with big HP and torque, then yes, you should up-build that tranny. For stock, it is fine.

I had a 1983 first gen 700R4 and yeah it was a problem child. Then I found an old dude that built tranny's for drag racers, he was a real character--I'll never forget him. He figured out what GM messed up and that thing was bullet proof after that. Correct shimming, a B&M Transpack and different clutch configuration. It would chirp 2nd gear whenever I wanted.
 
   / To do... or not to do... 2001 Tahoe 199,000 ... no reverse #45  
The first gen of the 700R was considered weak. After that, they are no different than any other. If you want to build up a motor with big HP and torque, then yes, you should up-build that tranny. For stock, it is fine.
The feedback I was getting was probably related to your first sentence. One thing which I didn't know until later was that it had an aftermarket remote starter in it; depending on who installed it, that could have caused problems.
One thing they are finally putting in pickups is a transmission temperature gauge. That would have saved me some money. I had the biggest cooler I could find, but that doesn't do much good when it's packed with snow. I got where I was going and got the job done that day though. :~
 
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   / To do... or not to do... 2001 Tahoe 199,000 ... no reverse #46  
There are reasons why fleet vehicles are replaced before 100,000 miles. Maintenance cost skyrocket. Most likely if the Op spends money on fixing it, they will not get the return of value from it. One can replace parts after parts on vehicles. But reliability goes down fast after 100K. These vehicles are not made to last 1,000,000+ miles like tractor trailers are.
 
   / To do... or not to do... 2001 Tahoe 199,000 ... no reverse #47  
There are reasons why fleet vehicles are replaced before 100,000 miles. Maintenance cost skyrocket. Most likely if the Op spends money on fixing it, they will not get the return of value from it. One can replace parts after parts on vehicles. But reliability goes down fast after 100K. These vehicles are not made to last 1,000,000+ miles like tractor trailers are.

It depends on the type of fleet. Some go at less than three years and 60,000 miles. Some go 150,000 miles, not years. Some drive until they drop.

With new cars, 100,000 mile warranties, 100,000 mile coolant, 50,000 mile tires, etc... they last longer.

And remember, fleet vehicles tend to get beat to p*** by the drivers, whereas most people try and take care of their personal cars. Mileage is not a good representation of a car's condition in and of itself. It's a good starting point, but only one thing to consider.
 
   / To do... or not to do... 2001 Tahoe 199,000 ... no reverse
  • Thread Starter
#48  
I've decided to take it in and have it checked out. I'm going to have the mechanic take a look at other 'wear' problem areas as well as the engine. If he finds anything of concern, I'll call it a day. But if things look generally OK, I think I'm going to roll the dice and fix it. As much as it is difficult to stomach, I think I can handle the potential $2000 loss better than the absolute $650/mo payment. Especially since this is primarily for dogs and farm.

We looked around and used Tahoe's with between 40K-75K are running about $35-45K. That is just more than I'd like to spend for this vehicle. I certainly might be eating my words... as I did when i fixed my 4Runner. But, it is a gamble I'll take, if the rest of the truck checks out.

I guess, I can always sell the 'new' transmission for about 1/2 of 'new' if the engine goes in the short term. heh... might not be too bad of a gamble... $1K gamble rather than $2K
 
   / To do... or not to do... 2001 Tahoe 199,000 ... no reverse #49  
Im in similar position. My old pilot has 351k miles. Transmission starting to slip.
Rest of vehicle pretty good, but dont think ill put any money into it. Probably wil give it away.
 
   / To do... or not to do... 2001 Tahoe 199,000 ... no reverse #50  
What kind of shape is the body in? Any rust at all? How's the interior? Clean?

If the body is good, the interior clean, and no known engine troubles, if it was me, I'd go over to LKQ pick your parts in Lexington and get a used transmission for $100 out of a low mileage wrecked Chevy or GMC and slap it in there. It's most likely a 4L60E transmission, made since 1992 to present. There are literally millions of them out there.

I drive a 1993 Suburban K1500 with that same transmission. I have a spare 4L60E in my garage from a 1993 van I got rid of. It's a fairly easy swap and should take only about an hour to drop the transmission out, and 2 hours to put it back in.

What do I love about my 1993 Suburban.... I paid $6000 for it 10 years ago, and have put about $1000 into it. So $7000 for 10 years and its still worth $1500, so $5500 for 10 years.... that's $550 per year.

I have spent $550 per year on a vehicle for the last 10 years.... think about that. $550 per year.

Even if I put $1000 per year in repairs on it, I'd only be spending $1550 per year on a vehicle.

It takes me to work every day.
It takes my kids to college and back every spring and fall.
It takes my tractor to our remote property and it brings the firewood home.
Just last Saturday I towed my car hauler trailer down about 110 miles away and picked up a loveseat and chairs for one of my kids and brought them home. Used 15 gallons of gas for 220 mile round trip. 14.99MPG.

Would I let my wife and kids drive it without me? Heck no! :laughing: While it works for my needs, it's not dependable in the sense that it can die at any given moment compared to a new truck. If I had to make my living with it, I wouldn't chance it. But I don't have to make my living with it and I don't have to make my wife and kids drive it. So yeah, it's perfect for my needs.

Think about the car payments I have not made for 10 years. Or lease payments. Even if I only paid $400 per month for 12 months, that's $4800 per year for 10 years. That's $48,000 I didn't hand to someone else. That's over $100,000 in the old investment bank when you add up the interest. :laughing:

I just can't stomach buying new vehicles when the one I have works fine. ;)

I could not agree more!
I have not had a car payment since 1992.
My vehicles are:
2010 Corolla - 47,000mi.
2000 Cadillac STS - 84,000mi.
2000 Mercedes clk320 200,000mi.( wonderful car)
1997 K2500 4x4 Suburban (392 cu in.) 130,000mi.
1996 Mercedes E-320 - 111,000mi
1987 Jeep Wrangler 4x4 - 126,000mi. (new eng. trans. & xfer. case)
Certainly, at least a couple more vehicles than I really need.


They are all 100% rust free, and maintained in excellent condition.
 

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