Ballast To load or not to load. That is the question.

[powerscol]

Load - you will not believe the difference for the better. Before loading mine I had to be careful picking up a bucket of soil (nose heavy and traction lost) With them loaded not a worry in the world. Also made snow plowing better too - better traction.

 

[oosik]

I've always had loaded rear tires and some type of implement on the 3-point. My rear tires are spread out to their widest(80") also. I became involved in the "teeter-totter" situation with my previous tractor and I never want that experience again.

Extra weight(Rimguard @ 740#/tire) and some type of 3-point implement(usually a rear blade @ 650#) simply provides additional stability & traction. When I use the grapple, its frequently at or near the max lifting ability - whether a log or big rock.

My ground is alway hard as a rock - including my lawns. Under the most intense loaded condition the tractor simply scuffs up the grass and barely leaves any impressions.

Move your tires out to their widest setting - if its possible. Put an implement on the 3-point--- see how it works. If you feel more weight is needed then consider filling the rear tires.

 

[Amvcane]

You said you will be running a 3pt snowblower with R4s in Canada. I vote for loading or iron wheel weights.
I don't know, but I'm curious as to the amount of weight per tire each has to offer.
I have a CK35 with Rimguard loaded rears and only have issues driving on grass in the early Spring or after an inch or two of rain.
I have no issues doing loader work with this as my only ballast.

 

[kas2960]

I've always had loaded rear tires and some type of implement on the 3-point. My rear tires are spread out to their widest(80") also. I became involved in the "teeter-totter" situation with my previous tractor and I never want that experience again.

That is sort of what the farmer down the road said to me. Lifted the whole rear off the ground long time back. Never again.

 

[kas2960]

If your lawn is continuously soft maybe a heavy tractor isn't for you.



I


My JD manual says to load tires plus have a rear weight (Ballast Box) plus put cast iron weights on the wheels. I ran out of money before I could put cast iron weights on so I do without.

I hear you on that last sentence brother Right now we have gone with out any significant rain for weeks. My bees have stopped bring in any honey. Only worried about the lawn in the spring as right now it is as hard as concrete. Pretty sure I will make a small road into the woods near my shed so I should be able to have the option to avoid the lawn.

 

[holeycow]

This whole discussion is sadly hilarious to a farmer.

The cheapest and best way to add the NECESSARY weight to the rear of a tractor to make it SAFE to operate with a loader is to load the rear tires. Add wheel weights too if you want, but it takes a lot of iron to weigh up to as much as fluid.

Implement dangling off the rear is optional and probably necessary with some tractors. As pointed out, cantilevered weight also takes a load off the front end. Many tractors have somewhat fragile front ends. Even some stout ones.

I bought my DK90 after having loaders on other, mostly larger tractors (with loaded rears). I thought that the factory cast rear wheels might be enough weight to avoid loading the tires (note that ALL of my tractors have had cast rears). It took about 3 scoops of dirt on a slight downhill incline to tell me that running this tractor without additional rear ballast would be STUPID. I knew right away that I wouldn't want to be hauling round bales around like that! My wife, who has considerable tractor driving experience, still thinks that the DK is a little light at times when using the loader compared to our larger loader tractor. I agree.We try to be careful with loads.

FWA is not designed to compensate for lack of weight. It is there so you can steer and to help in soft conditions

Most newer small (small being anything "utility" and down )tractors do not weigh up, nor do they have a long wheelbase. They also have a lot of horsepower and hydraulic power for their size. They are dangerous when doing loader work without some weight in the back. Again; the easiest,best weight is fluid.

The misinformation on here sometimes is staggering. The "my pappy's pappy" guy thinks he's funny.

This reminds me of the block heater discussions and the winter fuel discussions.....

 

[kas2960]

Thanks every one. Going to "juice" the tires, and will invest in some sort of rear ballast.

 

[oldpilgrim]

Don't go nuts with the rear ballast investment until you've worked your loader. I found I don't need a rear ballast. My loaded tires are sufficient even with a full bucket of dirt. They don't feel even slightly light.

 

[powerscol]

Agree - wait on the rear ballast until you have them loaded. If I am doing something really heavy with my folks, I connect up one of my implements like my box blade, or tiller for the ballast. I only need to do that a few times a year. I do all my hay work with no ballast.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Well, finally pulled the pin and bought a new CK4010H. Should be getting it next week. Had a couple of the farmers stop by for a pop and both gave me a tongue lashing for not loading the tires In their own words. You'll be sorry. What is everyone else experience with this? I will be doing firewood and pushing snow around in the winter and what ever else presents itself for loader work. Thanks.

Since its summer you have time to sample it for awhile with tires empty. - Then fill with water and check out the difference. ... Then, depending, drain and fill with beet juice; or just drain. I anticipate youll decide to load. :confused3: