To Load or Not to Load

[eyedoc]

I just closed the deal on a new B3030 with FEL and 72"mmm and asked the dealer to load the tires with rimguard. He recommended just the ballast box and maybe wheel weights instead of loading the tires, but said that they always use calcium chloride when the do load them.

My property doesn't have alot of steep hills but does have rolling pastures and woods, which I will be mowing and maintaining with the tractor. I can see the definite advantage of loading the tires for the lower center of gravity. I live in central Missouri so it isn't likely to get cold enough to freeze Rimguard. I also like the biodegradable nature of the product. Most threads on the subject her seem to indicate that a majority of members strongly recommend loaded tires.

What should I do, and how much is the cost difference between CC, rimguard and wheel weights?

 

[Deerlope]

Whatever you do do not let them put CC in them. Rim Guard is the best and also tubeless tires. That way if you get a flat just plug it and air it up and off you go.

 

[amigauser]

I went with loaded rear tires (rimguard) on my B3030. I have the cab model though so it has a high center of gravity so loading the tires gets the ballast weight down low to counteract that. I would not purchase another tractor without loaded rear tires. I still use a weight box or counterweight on the 3pt hitch when lifting heavy loads with the FEL. For light FEL work I don't need any 3pt ballast do to the loaded tires.

 

[RobJ]

If you don't worry about freezing, buy the $15 tool from Gemplers, DIY, and just put water in it. Nothing more biodegradable than H2O!! I loaded, maybe can tell a little diffference. I was disking the garden this past weekend, I've done it the same way for 3 years, I believe I got a little more traction this year with the water in the tires.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...2755-diy-loaded-tires.html?highlight=Gemplers

 

[Ace3]

I loaded the tires on my B3030 with rimguard. The dealer would not use calcium chloride because of the corrosion problem. My gut feeling is that the tractor is more stable on my very steep sloped property.

 

[CaptPat]

I had my tires loaded instead of a ballast box for a couple reasons, first I didn't want to have to deal with the ballast box hook-up/removal and secondly the ballast box weight is carried by the tractor axles whereas the loaded tires are not. Not having to carry the extra weight on the tractor itself seems like a good idea.

Mine were filled with rim guard, the dealer doesn't use CC any more due to corrosion issues.

 

[tomd999]

Hiya,

I would load the tires. I feel it makes a big difference in traction in the small chassis CUT's like the B series and the 2x20 series Deere's. Both seem to break loose too easy and the extra 4-500 Lbs in the rears makes a huge difference.

However, I would call around some truck tire shops and check prices. When I priced the 2520 the dealer wanted $400 to load. I passed and made a few calls. I found a tire place 15 miles from the house that loaded them for $108 with citristar. $300 is better in my pocket than the dealers.

I would however get the ballast box and fill it with portland to use when heavy lifting with the fel. The weight hanging off the 3pt uses the rear axle as a pivot and results in the front axle not carrying the full weight of the bucket.

My 2.3 cents,

Tom

PS: I have loaded tires (~500lbs), wheel weights (110lbs) and a ballast box filled with portland (~900lbs) and it's just barely enough for maximum loads on pallets. (950-1000lbs + 200lbs for the forks)

 

[peterc38]

My dealer only uses Rimguard too and includes filled reas with the price of the tractor. My personal preference is the filled tires over weights. Also, you mentioned concern about freezing, but I don't believe Rimguard freezes (least that is what I have read in some farm magaizines) and I know from personal experience it is fine in a Maine winter.

 

[Reg]

Depends what you plan to do with it.
If primarily mowing don't load - hope you got turfs.
If draggin' around anything that sticks into the ground;
a) Get a heavier tractor b) Load the tires.

I bought RimGuard at $3 a gallon, which they pumped into drums that I brought.
That way I knew how much I was getting and that it wasn't "concentration adjusted for local freezing conditions" (euphemism for watered down).
The $10 tool works well, as long as you remember how to start a siphon without having to suck a hose. Put the drum in the bucket and hoist it as high as you can once things are started, do something else for a while.

Calcium is probably cheapest; most of the weight is in the water, you add anything from 3 lbs of calcium per gallon, but it rusts rims.
RimGuard is probably next in cost, figure 10.7 lbs for $3 - I can't get steel or lead for that.
The only advantage to wheel weights is that you could take them off, but typically you can't add as much as you can with liquid.

 

[RobJ]

but it rusts rims.

I should add I have tubes, none of the water touches the metal.