To Look or to Leap?

[MarkV]

Re: Good or bad Inside or Outside

Ben,

If you like the deal how about getting the dealer to keep it crated until your ready? It might still be out side but in the factory protection.

 

[W5FL]

My experience was that prices were pretty steady even from recent 1999 to 2000 models. Where there was an increase, there was more value. Dealers are charged interest each month on the tractors setting on their lots. For a $20,000 tractor, close to $150 per month, so they want to sell what they have and many will not order one, but they will swap them among dealers within reason. Kubota's below M6800 size are usually stored in the protected crates and are in good shape after being out for some period of time

I think you will be better off to buy when you want to take delivery of the tractor and not before. There is truly a discount of some tractors (John Deere) paid by JD during shows to encourage dealers to participate, but it goes several weeks on either side and is available many months out of the year.

Spend your time finding out exactly what you want to buy and what you are going to pay for it. Wait until you can say, I am prepared to put a downpayment on this tractor if you make me a price better than $xxx. Before that, you are just another looker to many dealers and they will tell you what you want to hear. Even if you were ready to buy now, the process may still take several months to find the tractor you want. I tried to buy mine in the fourth quarter and could not get delivery until nearly 5 months later waiting for a model change that slipped schedule a few months. Also be AWARE that tractors do not come by model years. The exact same tractor may be 3 years old when sold new off the lot and it is indeed a new tractor. It is more likely to be over 1 year old from actual manufacturing date regardless.

 

[BDJ]

Wen,

Very good input on this issue. I think I'll take your advise and start seriously negotiating with dealers around next March in hopes of being able to take delivery in April or May.

As for models, I'm leaning toward the 2410. I have about 10 acres, most of which is forested thickly enough that I am somewhat concerned about maneuverability. I'm sure that once I have the machine, I'll come up with numerous uses for it. However, right now I forsee major uses will be brush hogging, land clearing and contouring, and eventually some minor excavation work. I'll probably be skidding a few logs as we get a few wind falls each season that eventually end up as fire wood.

I was considering the 7500 as the front runner for some time, but the additional capacity of the LA352 is very attractive, and I think the 2410 would be better suited to add a backhoe in the future. Although I'm not sure what I would need it for right now, I'm sure I wouldn't regret having the position control.

I considered the 2710 for the nominal price difference, but I think the physical size of the 2710 would be a hinderance in many of the locations this tractor would likely be used. Besides, if I recall, the 2410 has adjustable rear tread width while the 2710 is fixed. The adjustable feature appeals to me as I do have some sloped areas where the wider footpring would make things a little more stable, and the ability to narrow the stance would be beneficial when maneuvering between trees and undergrowth.

I know this is off topic, but does anyone have experience with bolt on loader teeth? I'm considering this option for the nominal increase in price, but am wondering if they would be redundant if I had a box scraper with ripper teeth. Also, I've heard that the attachment bolts that hold the tooth bar on the loader can get buggered up making the bar next to impossible to remove. Any comments?

Thanks,


Brad

 

[MarkV]

Brad,

I added the loader bucket teeth to my B21 and am very glad. For any digging with the loader the teeth cut into the soil much better than the leading edge of the loader. You will also find that the teeth work as a rake when clearing and are great to hook a chain to. If you end up with a back hoe you will find that with teeth on the loader the tractor will remain much more stable while using the back hoe. I can see where the bolts could get bunged up and be hard to remove. I have never tried once I got mine on. The only draw back I have noticed is using the bucket to back blade. I now curl my bucket and use the back edge.

 

[DVerbarg]

Brad,

Regarding your question about toothbar, I am in a similiar situation. I am getting a toothbar tomorrow and will be able to use it later this week. Will let you know my experience and if it is worth the extra money.

DaveV

 

[glennmac]

Shopping for a tractor sometimes means going around in circles.

I have looked at the 2410 and the 27/2910 through the lens of maneuverability. I dont think there is much difference. I drove the tightest circles I could in my dealer's gravel parking lot. The circle drawn by the inside wheel of the 2410 was only a few inches less in diameter than that drawn by the 27/2910. The inside diameter of the cutting circle with a 72" mid mower on a 27/2910 was actually less than the diameter of the 2410 with its maximum 60" mid deck.

You may not be using a mid deck from your description, but you also have to consider the width of the implements you are pulling when considering whether the narrower width of the 2410 rear wheels is really a virtue.

Glenn

 

[W5FL]

Be kinda careful with the toothbar. If you manage to get the bucket dumped with the teeth pointed down, it is not difficult to bend a hydraulic actuator and no warranty work will be covered. Scarfiers on a box blade can apply a lot of force to the ground, but toothbars are not meant to plow with.