Thanks for the advice on hydraulic fluid check. It had about 1 and 1/2 quarts to much. Definitely not water in it. Diesel fluid I dont know. It has a smell of diesel, but so does my duramax and any diesel i would assume. The consistency is a little thinner than oil. Going to take a sample to someone that knows better than I. In some diesels the oil stays clean for a long time. In my duramax, its black quickly. After 17 hours since last service, does anyone know if there oil is clear or black? Mine is rather dark.
To much oil on oilstick
- Thread starter waldoe
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ritcheyvs
Veteran Member
Diesel oil will look black, even 10 minutes (running) after a oil and filter change. There is generally enough trapped oil in the engine to make the new stuff look black almost immediately.
Diesel oil is designed to hold soot in suspension and soot removal is the main reason for Diesel oil change intervals. Really big Diesels (think ships) have soot traps to remove soot from the oil so oil changes are less frequent with those. But it's cheaper (and more foolproof) just to change the oil in small (like cars, pickup trucks, and tractors) Diesel engines.
There are two ways Diesel can get in the crankcase. If the diaphragm in the lift/feed pump leaks or if there is excessive wear in the injection pump. The lift pump is cheap and easy to replace; it is a simple diaphragm fuel pump driven by a cam in the block. The lift pump should not leak at all.
I believe this model still has the old style inline injection pump (vs common rail design). If so, the injection pump is lubricated from below by engine oil and small amounts of fuel will get past the close-fitting plungers and get into the engine oil. The plungers and cylinders are matched sets for a very close fit but there is no other seal (like a piston ring) between the plunger and cylinder. So some Diesel smell in the oil would be normal.
Diesel oil is designed to hold soot in suspension and soot removal is the main reason for Diesel oil change intervals. Really big Diesels (think ships) have soot traps to remove soot from the oil so oil changes are less frequent with those. But it's cheaper (and more foolproof) just to change the oil in small (like cars, pickup trucks, and tractors) Diesel engines.
There are two ways Diesel can get in the crankcase. If the diaphragm in the lift/feed pump leaks or if there is excessive wear in the injection pump. The lift pump is cheap and easy to replace; it is a simple diaphragm fuel pump driven by a cam in the block. The lift pump should not leak at all.
I believe this model still has the old style inline injection pump (vs common rail design). If so, the injection pump is lubricated from below by engine oil and small amounts of fuel will get past the close-fitting plungers and get into the engine oil. The plungers and cylinders are matched sets for a very close fit but there is no other seal (like a piston ring) between the plunger and cylinder. So some Diesel smell in the oil would be normal.
CMV
Platinum Member
Don't know about the dipstick for hyd fluid on a CK, but on mine, the hole is a little too small. It has a tendency to hold a bubble of fluid at the top which will then cling to dipstick on way out making it look way over full. Easy to think mine has too much in it - just have to make sure there is no fluid right at that opening & read again.
My oil was pretty dark after about 15 hrs, then after 1st change, probably 10 hrs it no longer looked newish at all.
If you're really worried about it, a jug of Rotella from WM & a Wix oil filter from NAPA/O'Reily/wherever isn't much $.
Raise your bucket about halfway, raise the 3pt. Check hyd fluid. Then, with machine still off, ground both & check again. You'll see why you always want to check with machine sitting same way.
Wherever you park the machine at end of day, make that a nice level area. That way you're always doing these checks on a cold machine in the same state. Will be easier to notice if something is changing.
Good luck with the front axle oil.....if yours is anything like mine there is no rhyme or reason to that nearly impossible to read tiny orange plastic dipstick.....any excess will just seep out, so I err to too much there. But sometimes that stick is bone dry, sometimes it says too much. Why its made needing thread in to check is a mystery to me.....
My oil was pretty dark after about 15 hrs, then after 1st change, probably 10 hrs it no longer looked newish at all.
If you're really worried about it, a jug of Rotella from WM & a Wix oil filter from NAPA/O'Reily/wherever isn't much $.
Raise your bucket about halfway, raise the 3pt. Check hyd fluid. Then, with machine still off, ground both & check again. You'll see why you always want to check with machine sitting same way.
Wherever you park the machine at end of day, make that a nice level area. That way you're always doing these checks on a cold machine in the same state. Will be easier to notice if something is changing.
Good luck with the front axle oil.....if yours is anything like mine there is no rhyme or reason to that nearly impossible to read tiny orange plastic dipstick.....any excess will just seep out, so I err to too much there. But sometimes that stick is bone dry, sometimes it says too much. Why its made needing thread in to check is a mystery to me.....
Kioti mechanic said it looked normal to him, but did have some diesel in it. I would say I am not really worried about it, just want to catch it while it is still under warranty. After about 5 hrs of operation I should know. Maybe in about 3 weeks, as i don't have a use for it yet. My personal opinion is that there is diesel in it. Thanks for the tip on checking hydraulic fluid with bucket in the same place. I will report back with the findings. Thanks
HillStreet
Veteran Member
New to you machine. If it were mine I would change all fluids and filters, but that is just me.
MickeyDBC
Gold Member
If it was me I would change the oil, watch the level, and then send a sample into Blackstone Labs or other reputable oil analysis company. That will either point to a problem or let you sleep well at night. Cheap insurance.
I have put about 13 hrs on it since I changed the oil. The oil level does not appear to have moved. The only thing that I can think of that may have happened before I got it is, Maybe he only removed one of the drain plugs instead of removing both when changing the oil. Who knows. Thanks for the replies.
thepumpguysc
Elite Member
THANKS for updating.. Funny u mention oil level tho..
I did an IH tractor last week that had "fuel in the oil".. the seal gave-up in the inj. pump..
The customer asked if I would change the oil after I did the pump.. "SURE, not a problem"..
I did the pump & it was time for the oil change.. I grabbed a 5 gal pail & undid the pan bolt.. The tractor only holds 4 gal..
It started to get uncomfortably close to the top of the bucket, so I went & grabbed a 2nd, & switched'm out..
The 2nd got VERY CLOSE to the top before it stopped.!!! HOLY SMOKES.. I'll say it had fuel in the oil.!!! 6 gallons of fuel..Lol
I changed the oil, rebuilt the pump, problem solved..everybody's happy..
I did an IH tractor last week that had "fuel in the oil".. the seal gave-up in the inj. pump..
The customer asked if I would change the oil after I did the pump.. "SURE, not a problem"..
I did the pump & it was time for the oil change.. I grabbed a 5 gal pail & undid the pan bolt.. The tractor only holds 4 gal..
It started to get uncomfortably close to the top of the bucket, so I went & grabbed a 2nd, & switched'm out..
The 2nd got VERY CLOSE to the top before it stopped.!!! HOLY SMOKES.. I'll say it had fuel in the oil.!!! 6 gallons of fuel..Lol
I changed the oil, rebuilt the pump, problem solved..everybody's happy..