To sheath or not to sheath, that is my question.

[ultrarunner]

Just want to say it sure looks like an awesome barn... great dimension and spacious!

Hope you can post pictures of the build.

 

[WM75Guy]

I would absolutely use some type of insulation or sheathing under a metal roof. My Morton stables has a metal roof over 1/2" H.D. Thermax insulation board. I don't have a radiant heat or condensation problem. We have the aisle oriented north-south so we get a good breeze. There is a vent fan in the cupola. The power cord for the fan is hanging down in the first picture, the barn was not wired yet.

 

[Dadnatron]

repowell, I like that a lot.

We are going to have Morton give us a bid as well. What made you go with them?

Also, I like the post style of the barn more than truss, but one builder said it was quite a bit more expensive overall. Did you talk about truss building at all with them?

And finally, if you would PM me, what was your approximate 'per stall' cost of your build? I have seen such a wide range that I have no real understanding. I have thought of just having a builder build the 'shell' and I choose/build and install the stalls completely myself. Some stall fronts I have seen run $5K. And these are not fancy, just pretty strong metal.

Anything else you learned or would definitely do or do differently concerning your build would be greatly appreciated. I like to learn from other peoples experiences.

 

[KYErik]

For that extra $10K, you could buy a lot of extra implements or even a few extra horses for the barn...

With some help from family members, I built a 24 X 40 pole barn in 2001 (5 rib metal roof, exposed fasteners) and a 38 X 72 pole barn in 2013 (also 5 rib metal roof, exposed fasteners). Yes, on a frosty morning, it will "rain" inside when the frost on the underside of the metal melts- so the double bubble insulation is a good idea.

No one would want the fasteners to leak on such a big investment- that's why I placed the screws through the ribs instead of through the flats. No leaks and no screw replacements on either roof for all of those years! Many contractors do not want to place the screws through the ribs because it takes longer and requires more skill (if you over-tighten the screws, it will flatten the rib a little and deform the sheet, which can throw the roofing off square). If you go with exposed fasteners, talk to folks with roofs that were done both ways and see who has had the most leaks and has had to replace any fasteners. Be aware that you may have to look around a little for a contractor who is willing to place the screws through the ribs. I was even told by one contractor "we don't do it that way because it will leak"- trust me, it won't if you maintain the proper overlap/flashing etc.

 

[EddieWalker]

You are getting conflicting advice from people that are happy with what they did, but you should be very cautious following their advice. Get as many ideas as you can, but be sure to follow the manufacturers advice when installing your roof. If you go with standing seam or R panels, or something else, read up on how they tell you to install it, and do it exactly how they say. Do not overthink it, modify it or try to do something better. If they have been in business for any period of time at all, somebody has tried to sue them, somebody has had a failure and they have a team of engineers that examine what works and what doesn't. This applies to every aspect of building. 100% of the time when there is a failure, it's because the instructions on how to install it where not followed.

 

[Peter 315]

I would get a quote from Morton I used them for 2 roofs, nice guys, no mess NO screws all over the ground

 

[Dadnatron]

Eddie, the conflicting advice is OK. Its what I have ran into in the real world as well. I believe I can weed through it and at least choose what I want to do. But I like hearing what people have found that works and doesn't work and things they would do differently. I know there is a 'cheap' way, several 'good' ways, and several 'expensive' ways to get the job done. And hearing people's input is helpful, especially when they say "I did X, and I'd NEVER do it again because...!" THAT is what I am hoping to hear and avoid.

I'll admit KYerik, I am leary about putting screws through the ribs. HOWEVER, one of the builders did that very thing on his own barn. In fact, it was the builder who put his metal over purlins and bubble insulation only. I haven't spoken with him about it specifically though.

 

[MH8675309]

Sheet the roof if nothing else for the noise. During a cloud burst it gets so loud in a steel roofed barn. Also when the weather changes the sheeting will keep the steel roof from "sweating" on everything underneath.

 

[KYErik]

I don't blame anyone for being skeptical about a method that is more complicated and will likely require 50% more time than the method that the manufacturer recommends.

Yes- ask around your area and get opinions from people that have "been there and done that". I always ask others lots of questions before I build or perform a plumbing/electrical/welding/automotive/tractor repair.

I agree that sheathing the roof would greatly reduce the noise of heavy rain- it can get so loud that you have to yell to have a conversation.

Speaking of mistakes- be sure that you have very good drainage away from your structure even during a super heavy rain on top of saturated soil- I made that mistake with Pole barn #1 which was built on a hillside.

Also- keep in mind that carpenter bees can be very destructive to overhead southern yellow pine beams/rafters on open areas (learned that the hard way too).

 

[fishheadbob]

When Morton did my barn 38 years ago they knew it was for livestock. They went uninsulated just laying the steel over the purlins and nailing it down with ring shank nails. Because of the cows which crank out many times the moisture of horses they designed vent doors (steel windows) low and passive ventilators on top. I never had any measurable problem with moisture but this was what used to be called a cold barn with doors and windows open to some degree for ventilation. Same temperature inside as outdoors. Hay never had a moisture problem. Many years we had a few horses in the same barn, never any respiratory issues. It is definitely loud in heavy rain or hail but is far away from the house so we never heard it unless we were in the barn. None of the livestock ever complained or spooked but these weren't highly charged thoroughbreds . If you go with a warm barn you'll probably have to have better ventilation.
It's my opinion that Morton is excellent and has gotten expensive. If you can get the same level of construction from a good local you could save a bunch.
Oh yeah, carpenter bees. We get heavy snow loads so we're probably going to need to add some scabbed on 2x4 s to repair the weakening they must have done.
First real maintenance other than having the roof painted after 30 years.