To use my weight distribution hitch or not?

[crazyal]

The only reason I could see for using a WD hitch would be if you exceeded the limit of your receiver, either trailer weight or tongue weight. I thought you posted that it was rated for 5000 lb (without wd). If you know you are under that and have the load so it's not going to put too much weight on the receiver then I can't see any advantage to using a WD hitch. All the talk about how they work is just fodder that doesn't add anything to your question. As for why not use it even if you don't need it I would say why not double (or tripple up) on the number of chains/ straps holding down your load? Because you don't need them, why waste the time.

 

[newbury]

<snip> As for why not use it even if you don't need it I would say why not double (or tripple up) on the number of chains/ straps holding down your load? Because you don't need them, why waste the time.

That reads like a typical stingy Vermonter's attitude.
I agree with it.
After the 40 posts I'm thinking I might use it if I was transporting something like a trailer load of IBC totes

stacked 2 high. They might have more sway problem due to wind than my little B7610

 

[wolfpack2]

Thanks for your comments.

The trailer as in my sig is a Hudson rated at 12,000 GVWR HSE Deluxe - 5 Ton Capacity Fender Equipment Trailer. I don't rate the trailers, I take their word. And I'm not planning on trying to run it with a 10K payload. This thread was about running it with LESS than a 2K payload.

I'm running Greenball Towmasters load range E, 2,830lbs @ for a total of 11,320 lbs, Costco sells them. Greenball Tires - Towmaster

My truck is a dually as in my sig with an upgraded payload capacity of 11,500 lbs rated to tow 12,500. I think my "cargo capacity" is about 3,500 lbs or 3,800lbs so I can drop a load in the bed.

Again, thanks for your comments but I see little in your discussion pertaining to running WD with a light load. I thought that somewhere I had read recommendations AGAINST using an Equal-i-zer when running a light load (4,000 lbs INCLUDING the trailer). Especially since I'll have a minimum load in the truck and bed and it sets butt high.

The only risk is if you apply too much spring and unload the rear axle (less weight on the tires than there was before you connected the trailer). This could lead to lose of control. If you are within the limits, you don't need it. If it rides better and make the load more controllable, there is no harm in using it as long as you have it properly adjusted.

 

[PhilY]

Oh my, where to begin?

May I ask what your tow vehicle is? Maybe I can help you with specifics pertaining to your vehicle. It alarms me that you don't know if your WD requirement is 1000 or 1500 lbs. This is something you should know if you use your truck to tow anything substantial.

Your guidelines and reasoning are flawed. Your truck is not sitting level if the rear squats any amount. Did you read my previous post and just totally discount it? Of course your front end was lightened, we are talking bumper pulls aren't we?

You seem worried someone would use a WD improperly with a light trailer thinking WD hitches are a safety hazard? The safety hazard is people who think they don't need one with a measly 1000 lb tongue weight or because their truck only squatted 2 inches.

Now forgive me is your tow vehicle is something greater than a one ton (3500) class truck. That said, ALL trucks would benefit using a WD hitch with 1000 lb tongue weights as the safety of everyone.

I clearly stated that using a WDH is listed for a tongue weight of 1000-1500lbs. ie. no WD below 1000 and a TW not to exceed 1500. I do not need any help understanding something as simple as this is clearly written right on my hitch. Also, when you have larger trucks like my 2500HD, they manufacture them to sit a little high in the back end when unloaded so that when they are that they will ride level.

I never said that a measly 1000lbs doesn't require one, but have said that if you crank down on one with a light trailer can reduce rear-wheel traction. Do you disagree with me on this, or was this just discounted. It is pretty common knowledge that you should always look for about 2 inches of drop when hooking up a trailer, otherwise, you will most likely have sway issues.

I am beginning to think it impossible for people to comprehend basic points with basic analogies....rant and replies over.

 

[jejeosborne]

I clearly stated that using a WDH is listed for a tongue weight of 1000-1500lbs. ie. no WD below 1000 and a TW not to exceed 1500. I do not need any help understanding something as simple as this is clearly written right on my hitch. Also, when you have larger trucks like my 2500HD, they manufacture them to sit a little high in the back end when unloaded so that when they are that they will ride level.

I never said that a measly 1000lbs doesn't require one, but have said that if you crank down on one with a light trailer can reduce rear-wheel traction. Do you disagree with me on this, or was this just discounted. It is pretty common knowledge that you should always look for about 2 inches of drop when hooking up a trailer, otherwise, you will most likely have sway issues.

I am beginning to think it impossible for people to comprehend basic points with basic analogies....rant and replies over.

I thought you were giving an estimate with the 1000-1500 lbs range given. I guess you are saying your max tongue weight is 1500 lbs and anything over 1000 lbs requires a WD. If that is the case, i misunderstood.

As far as the 2" drop being common knowledge, that is scary. 2" drop gives you the recommend 10-15% tongue weight based on what trailer, what load, who's truck? Very poor way to calculate proper tongue weight in my opinion and it shouldn't be common knowledge. Are your headlights aimed for the 2" drop or not?

I don't disagree with you about over tensioning a WD hitch on a light tongue weight trailer. Improper use and setup of any device is wrong and I would advise against it. Properly using a WD hitch does nothing but improve safety and handling even when not necessary, though I don't use them for less than 400 lbs generally.

I see that you operate using "basic analogies" whereas I like to use more exact methods to insure safe towing measures.

 

[msmith1wa]

Back to your original post, I would tow the load you describe without weight distribution and sway control with the truck you have.

Although not part of your original question I am going to restate what I said about what I said regarding loading to max capacity. As I suspected the specs for the trailer in the link you provided indicate the trailer has 5200 lb capacity axles total of 10400 lbs on the axles. To get to the 12K rating you would have a tongue weight of 1600 lbs as I am sure you can figure out this is only 100 lbs above your hitch's rating with weight distribution. When the weight distribution bars are hooked up they will distribute some of the weight that would be on the rear axle of the truck to the front axle as well as the trailer axles. Now the axles are beyond there rated capacity. If you look at the towing forum on RV.net there are examples of people taking there trailers to scales and verifying this with actual weights with and with out weight distribution. Now if you place a load in the bed of the truck it changes everything because with the weight distribution it is possible to distribute some of the load in the bed to the front of the truck and to the trailer.

I am in agreement with jejeosborne regarding your 2" drop statement. The drop of the tow vehicle has nothing to do with the likely hood of sway, it is the percentage of tongue weight to total weight that can be an indicator. A f150/1500 would sag less than a F350/3500 with the same trailer and both would have the same towing characteristics.

 

[joshuabardwell]

For the person who commented that they see travel trailer folks using WD and don't typically see equipment haulers or car haulers using them, all I have to say is that there are a lot of people out there who have no idea what the weight rating of their hitch is, or at what load the manufacturer requires a WD. Take a look at all the photos on the Internet of people towing hugely overloaded trailers and think twice about whether, "what everybody does," is a good standard to go by. No guesswork is required. Look at the specs for your tow vehicle and/or your hitch, and it will tell you exactly when and if a WD system is required. The numbers are all over the place because, as jejeosborne has pointed out, the need for a WD system has to do with how the tongue weight is distributed across the receiver's attachment to the frame.

IMO, the prevalence of WD in the travel-trailer crowd, and the absence of WD in the car/equipment hauler crowd is more cultural than anything else. Travel-trailer people tend not to know anything about towing, so the dealers try to educate them and sell them stuff (and not get them killed going down the road). Good ol' boys buying car haulers kind of think they know it all and aren't interested.

 

[jejeosborne]

Back to your original post, I would tow the load you describe without weight distribution and sway control with the truck you have.

Although not part of your original question I am going to restate what I said about what I said regarding loading to max capacity. As I suspected the specs for the trailer in the link you provided indicate the trailer has 5200 lb capacity axles total of 10400 lbs on the axles. To get to the 12K rating you would have a tongue weight of 1600 lbs as I am sure you can figure out this is only 100 lbs above your hitch's rating with weight distribution. When the weight distribution bars are hooked up they will distribute some of the weight that would be on the rear axle of the truck to the front axle as well as the trailer axles. Now the axles are beyond there rated capacity. If you look at the towing forum on RV.net there are examples of people taking there trailers to scales and verifying this with actual weights with and with out weight distribution. Now if you place a load in the bed of the truck it changes everything because with the weight distribution it is possible to distribute some of the load in the bed to the front of the truck and to the trailer.

I am in agreement with jejeosborne regarding your 2" drop statement. The drop of the tow vehicle has nothing to do with the likely hood of sway, it is the percentage of tongue weight to total weight that can be an indicator. A f150/1500 would sag less than a F350/3500 with the same trailer and both would have the same towing characteristics.

Good points. I post a few months ago pictures of my 5020 lb camper at the scales. The WD hitch added 140 lbs to the trailer axle weight. My guess would be more weight went to my front truck tires because they were closer to the hitch.