Tombstone and 7018-1

   / Tombstone and 7018-1
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Are you sure the machine overload breaker is not tripping.

Yea I am. Tried for a couple of minutes to relight the 7018 turned around grabbed a 7014 that was on the bench. Changed rods and arc struck first tap and finished welds no problem. Didn't change anything but rod and about what 5 seconds to change out the rod.

The overload shouldn't reset that fast.
 
   / Tombstone and 7018-1 #12  
Does an AC tombstone have a overload breaker? I don't recall seeing anything in my manual about one.
 
   / Tombstone and 7018-1 #13  
Does an AC tombstone have a overload breaker? I don't recall seeing anything in my manual about one.

I read somewhere that only the AC/DC has overload protection on the DC side.
 
   / Tombstone and 7018-1 #14  
I think I read that in a thread somewhere, too. If the strictly AC tombstones have an overload breaker, I'll be delighted but, I honestly don't believe they do.
 
   / Tombstone and 7018-1 #15  
To the OP: Do not give up on 6013 just yet. Although I am not a huge fan of 6013 it is still useful for some applications. (like thin sheet metal when no wire feeder is available)

Really Every welding machine (even expensive ones) have brands of rods that they burn better than others. Your machine is limited in some aspects in that it is AC only and it also has tapped amp settings instead of infinitely adjustable amp settings, but that does not mean it still can not work very well. The key is finding the brand of a particular rod type and size that actually burns well on a setting that you actually have on your welder. Brand A may run like crap, but Brand B might run perfectly. It might even go as far as Brand A in 3/32" diameter but Brand B in 1/8" diameter within a rod type. Once you find one you like then that rod is a keeper for your machine. I always buy small packs to test then, once I find one I like then purchase the more economical size. Another thing that can also confuse the situation is that even Lincoln and Hobart often make 2 to 3 grades of a rod type. Some grades within a brand are just not suitable for the buzzbox class of machine.

7014 rod might be the one rod that might actually run better on AC as compared to DC. I love 7014 too.

I started out with a Lincoln AC buzzbox. It was a great welder and I would still have it had I not stumbled into a bargain on my Miller buzzbox. 6011, 6013, and 7014 were always my go to rods on the Lincoln.

While I have a Miller thunderbolt AC/DC now (The Lincoln was better on the AC side of things in my opinion). I decided to keep the Miller because it did have DC. Had it been an AC only unit then I would have kept the Lincoln. 6011, 6013, and 7014 are still my go to rods on the Miller even with the DC capability - although some of my brand preferences have changed slightly with Miller (again every machine has brands it likes better than others).

For me: I hardly ever fool with 7018 as I do not want the rod oven storage hassles with it, but if I did feel I absolutely had to have it for project then I would go 7018AC. 7018AC will also burn on DC and is almost always a better choice for the buzzbox class of welding machine even if you have DC capability. With an AC only machine it is certainly the best choice. Now which brand? That will be up to you to determine - LOL. (And do remember that any 7018 or 7018AC can be very finicky and difficult to run if it has drawn moisture. Guys that weld a lot and go through rod quickly hardly ever see it though even if they do not store it properly. Occasional hobby welders where rods stay on the shelf for months and even years like in my case do see it though especially when your shop is an ole damp barn).
 
Last edited:
   / Tombstone and 7018-1
  • Thread Starter
#16  
The thought never crossed my mind to run 7018 on AC until joining these tractor forums. So awhile back I gave it a try with my old buzz box. The noise really set me back:shocked:! About the only thing I noticed different was I could not get the weld to wet out like on DC. But I had no problems with the machine cutting out at all.
I just wonder if something isn't wrong with your machine?


Here's the machine I used, and the weld. The 7018 I used never seen the inside of a rod oven.

Sorry for the delay got busy and am just having time to get back to this.
Tried it again at 135amps. Sounded horrible but worked. Some pictures if they work.

7018 135 Amps


7014 120 amps


7014 105 amps
 
   / Tombstone and 7018-1 #17  
Why are you weaving the bead so wide? Just a straight bead would have more than enough strength for that round bar. The other option would be to bevel the ends for penetration and butt the 2 sides together.
 
   / Tombstone and 7018-1
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Why are you weaving the bead so wide? Just a straight bead would have more than enough strength for that round bar. The other option would be to bevel the ends for penetration and butt the 2 sides together.

Habit I guess. Plus wanted to make sure it was sealed good as where it is going is very hard on welded areas and didn't have time to paint them
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

John Deere 1110 Field Cultivator - Heavy-Duty Soil Finisher for Precision Tillage (A52748)
John Deere 1110...
2019 FORD TRANSIT VAN (A52576)
2019 FORD TRANSIT...
2017 GENIE GS-2646 (A52472)
2017 GENIE GS-2646...
2007 MACK CV713 WINCH TRUCK (A52472)
2007 MACK CV713...
Tires (A50322)
Tires (A50322)
BW RVB3405 20,000lbs 5th Wheel Hitch Base (A50322)
BW RVB3405...
 
Top