Tiller Too much HP for 4' King Kutter Tiller??

[Ford850]

I understand the 4' King Kutter is a little lightweight for my tractor. I'm just trying to prove it to my grandpa :laughing:. I am pushing for the 6' King Kutter tiller however 6' (72") still isnt wide enough to cover the tracks on my 2440 with its 87.8" wheelbase. I believe 6' is as big as King Kutter goes but i'm not positive. I would like to stick with the King Kutter because i've heard nothing but good about them and they are a reasonable price

Deereman10,
KK does make a 7' tiller. I'm looking at that size now. They are not as common as the 6' model but are the same tiller design and they are available. I saw them priced at a Rural King for $2200 I believe. The 6' were $1700.

 

[deereman10]

i'm having ideas for a middle buster. I think it'd be great for christmas trees and pumpkins. I dont need to till the ground in between them.

 

[Don87]

Wrong. Do you have any idea the instant horsepower used in breaking a shearbolt at 540 rpm? Unless youre using pretty little shear bolts its well above 50HP. Yet its common to see 30 - 40 HP bushogs using 3/8" shearbolts. These take about 100 HP to shear. It is certain that a well designed 25 HP Ag gearbox will take 50 HP without immediate damage. Otherwise it wouldnt sustain the anticipated unexpected circumstances --you would damage it virtually every time you hit a rock. 50HP continuous would be a real problem, but if the clutch is set to more than 50 the tractor will bog right down and youll know to modify your technique. If you set it for 25HP with a 50HP engine you will have only the most subtle indication of load before it slips, and if not caught you will burn the clutch as soon as you hit a hard spot.
larry

You are still totally wrong with what you described.

First and formost, the KK tiller has a slipclutch, not shear pins.

Second: I don't believe that the 4' KK tiller can even bog the 50 hp engine as you describe.

Third: even if you could "signifigantly" bog the engine with the tiller, after tightening the 'clutch bolts' as you describe, to attempt bogging the overpowered engine.........the stresses on the driveline alone would cause the shaft to twist off.

Fourth: Nowhere in the owners manual will you find a reference to "bogging the engine on an overpowered tractor" to properly adjust a slipclutch.

The tiller in question is rated at 25 HP, it will work with a more powerful tractor..........but your adjustment technique would make any engineer cringe.

 

[Don87]

would take driving out the headland and around the tilled area for a new pass from the original direction, rinse, repeat till all of it is tilled with no reverse direction tilling and running over tilled earth. like I said. lots of legwork...

soundguy

I tilled the way you described, but it was always the last pass that was messed up for me.

My old tiller was offset to the right, so the last pass would put my machine on an angle (left tires on untilled ground-right tires sinking into the tilled ground). The only way I found to work 'semi-right' was to till once in the 'north-south' direction for 2 passes,(on the west end of the garden) then do the entire garden in the 'south-north' direction(moving sideways from east to west). It worked to a degree, but I was never happy with it.

And like you said, it is a lot of legwork.

 

[Soundguy]

could always adjust the sid elink on the last pass to make the tiller level even if tractor wasn't.

again.. lots of legwork..

soudnguy

 

[Don87]

could always adjust the sid elink on the last pass to make the tiller level even if tractor wasn't.

again.. lots of legwork..

soudnguy

That wasn't an option on my old Cub Cadet(no adjustment). On my Massey it is an option, but it was just so much easier to get a tiller that covered both tracks.

I understand that sometimes that option isn't available, but if possible one should get a tiller to cover both tracks...........it saves time, fuel, legwork, and a lot of frustration.

 

[Soundguy]

wow.. no adjustable sidelink... can't imagine not hgaving one..

 

[Don87]

wow.. no adjustable sidelink... can't imagine not hgaving one..

My old Cub Cadet(2160) was just a lawn tractor, I had the offset tiller(belt drive)(bad design), and the snowblower(another bad design), and the MMM(good design).

It was the ...........half hydro-half gear model.

In other words............Full forward or full reverse on the pedal...........don't ever feather the pedal(the half dollar sized clutch would wear out in a few minutes).

12 years before I had the clutch replaced..............dealer said most were replaced after 2 years( I read the manual)

This is where my 'heavy equipment' usage came into play- Skidders, Dozers, Tractor Trailers Ya learn how to operate...........

Belt on the tiller(which cost 125.00 last I bought), would break if the 'reverse tines' picked up a rock that was about the size of a silver dollar, and about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick and threw it into the belt.

The belt on the snowblower would break, if you didn't apply pressure on the handles to make it scrape the driveway clean. Ice ridges would form that would cut the belt in half.

14 years I dealt with that PITA.

Before that, I had an old Allis Chalmers garden tractor. Kohler engine that was on it had a huge hole in the block.

They said I couldn't get the Briggs engine to work, but I did.

They also said that I couldn't get the hydraulics to work off the GM power steering pump that I installed(along with the valves, and the cylinders I got from an old Gilson tractor), but I did.

EDIT: Yer learnin a lot more about me than anyone on here has Soundguy.