I have a Industrial JD300 and there is way too much play in the steering wheel. The steering wheel goes up and down about a quarter inch when you turn the wheel back and fourth. It has power steering and steers easy. The hydralic pump has been changed. The loader operates great. Any ideas what could be wrong?
Too much play in steering wheel--JD300
- Thread starter tlfarm
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Barry Bowen
Gold Member
Nothing is wrong most likely. The shaft in the center that the steering wheel is attached has the two valves on it that control flow in each direction and it threads into the actual hydraulic piston inside the steering unit. The shaft is supposed to move up and down some, and as it does this the movement actuates the hydraulic valves. With the motor off see how much the entire column moves up and down as you turn the wheel. You should have a good half turn from top to bottom. When the tractor is running, it will be less as it opens the valves and supplies pressure to cylinder. Make a sudden and hard turn and the column will move up and down more till the oil flows and moves the piston in the hydraulic cylinder. If it is working fine and not heating up when it sits while it is running, you are most likely fine.
Barry when I drive the tractor on the road the tractor is all over the place as if something is not right in the steering box. You have to turn the wheel about half a turn to do any turning. At slow speeds it steers fairly well. The front end is all tight(tie rods, drag link).
Tx Jim
New Member
tlfarm
I agree with zzvyb6. The 2 control valve inside the housing must be adjusted(shimmed) in correct place for steering to operate correctly. I know you stated tie rods and drag link were tight but how are the bushing in the bellcrank under the center of the frt axle???? A loose bellcrank has been known for steering problems on JD utility tractors.
I agree with zzvyb6. The 2 control valve inside the housing must be adjusted(shimmed) in correct place for steering to operate correctly. I know you stated tie rods and drag link were tight but how are the bushing in the bellcrank under the center of the frt axle???? A loose bellcrank has been known for steering problems on JD utility tractors.
Barry Bowen
Gold Member
When you are driving the tractor down the road look down a the drag link. Is it moving very noticeable when the steering wheel is not moving? Mine has this problem and needs the bushing right where that big pitman arm attaches to the steering gear. Yes, also check the bushing on the bell crank, they are really known for having trouble there. Front axle has to be dropped out to replace, and make sure you line up the hole in the side of the new bushing with the hole for the grease fitting.
He's told us that the steering wheel rides up a quarter inch when he steers it. That means its in the steering gear housing assembly. The sector gear in the worm drive is not stationary but is riding up and down in the housing. That's why the wheel has axial play. The adjusters have backed out, the bushing is worn or the housing is kaput.
The manual linkage parts may also be worn, but this one is obvious. Fix this first.
The manual linkage parts may also be worn, but this one is obvious. Fix this first.
Barry Bowen
Gold Member
Please correct me if I am wrong, ( I have a 301A and have worked on the steering numerous times) but from what I see the steering shaft has to have up and down play, at least some to actually actuate the hydraulic valves. When the tractor is turned off the up and down play becomes greater as the shaft is moving through its complete range of motion inside the valves. At the top of the column, after you take the lock nut off, the plug that holds the seals, when it is tightened down it completely holds the valves stationary by design. The steering shaft moves up and down slightly inside of this assemble. There are shims on each valve that determine how fast and strong the valve responds. These can actually be set light enough to spin the wheel completely from one side to the other in one quick motion, not good, but it can be done. When the tractor is running, the slightest movement off center starts to engage one of the valves so the up and down motion almost disappears. I was talking of the motion when the tractor is off. Sorry I was not very clear on that earlier.
Barry Bowen
Gold Member
Depends on what you mean by special tools. Single use tools from JD? No is the answer. You will need a steering wheel puller, or a harmonic balancer puller for the steering wheel. Pipe wrench is fine for the lock nut and the center part too. To get the pin out of the connecting rod, all you need is a 3/8's bolt to thread in. When you have the steering valve assemble out, PAY CLOSE ATTENTION TO HOW IT CAME OUT, that is how it was stacked. I use an old valve spring compresor to get the first retainer clip out. You also need expanding pliars to get the clips to open. There are two of these clips. Before you take the unit off the tractor, you can remove the wheel and the collar that holds it all in place. Then put the wheel back on loose, and put the nut on several threads, but do not tighten. Now you can turn the wheel to the left and unscrew the valve assemble out of the column. One good last pull on the wheel when it gets to the end of the threads and you will have it out. First time apart is a little tricky, but not that hard if you are pretty handy with the wrenches. You will also need to remove the two covers from the side of the batterie compartment, and there are two bolts at the top of the column to the cowl. Also have to remove the shifter cover plate to get the column to clear coming out. Be ready for lots of oil to spill every where during this process.
