Too much tractor?

   / Too much tractor? #21  
My vote would be for an "L" series: there's one model, though, that is known to have some issues (research). If you have trees you're going to have to navigate around them: I have quite a few trees, and my B7800 (which for a small tractor has done a LOT of work) works really well around them (now that things are somewhat opened up my NX can navigate reasonably well).

While my B7800 isn't able to lift what larger tractors can lift I've been able to move some VERY large tree trunks with it: it just takes a good sense of how to leverage stuff; a tooth bar is an essential aid here! I did not/do not have a lot of this kind of situation in which case the need for a larger machine wasn't there: my firewood handling scheme now, however, requires moving around cages of wood, and this is something that the B7800 just cannot do (barely do it but then cannot lift up on to my front deck). I have 40 acres, though most is in heavy, wet brush: I'm pushing close to 10 acres of semi-pastured land now.

Of course, it really comes down to the PRIMARY job you're expecting to do with your machine. It's nearly impossible to meet all requirements, fully. Sometimes you have to compromise. My thinking has always been that I go with what is able to do the majority of the work needed done and then to rent for the rest.

Bigger tractors are more expensive to operate. Parts are more expensive (though you might be less likely to break something that is over-sized) and you're going to burn more fuel (not likely a lot more, but it's something to consider). General maintenance will also cost more (larger fluid capacities; filters are more expensive). AND, you can do a lot more damage to things that you might not want to damage (if you're not careful).

I'd gotten my B7800 stuck numerous times before I became more savvy about how to avoid getting stuck. I did get it stuck after getting my NX and it was nice to be able to just easily yank the B7800 out with the NX. And in a slight twist of things, I once had to use the B7800 to free up my NX: NX was boxed in behind a dump trailer- had to use the B7800 to get the dump trailer unstuck and out of the way (from behind- couldn't go forward with the NX).

I've mowed a lot of acreage with a mere 5' rotary cutter. The 6' cutter on my NX makes a significant difference (so too does being able to be inside in a cab!): it's also a heck of a lot tougher; used to run through brush that I'd never consider doing with the 5' off the B7800. As has been noted, stay away from any single spindle 7' cutters (they're huge- a 6' single projects out far enough). Lots depends on what you're needing to cut, whether you're faced with having to cut really tall grass (I can't get to mine early enough to tackle shorter grass because it's too wet) or really dense grass: larger cutters are going to be harder to run (unless going very slow) in taller and or denser grasses.
 
   / Too much tractor? #22  
My vote would be for an "L" series: there's one model, though, that is known to have some issues (research).

Since this is read by so many, it's worth getting it right. The early B3350's had issues with their emission control systems, evidently has since been made right after some recalls. Don't think ANY "L" models have had "issues", meaning a built-in major problem affecting many units.
 
   / Too much tractor? #23  
Thanks for the lowdown, Grandad4. I knew there was a 3000 series that had the issue. And as I noted, one should do their own research.
 
   / Too much tractor? #24  
I once read on this forum "a small tractor can do anything and big tractor can, it will just take longer" that might be true for pto and 3 point attachments, just size them for your hp, 4 vs 6 feet type thing. BUT if you need to lift a 1500 lb bale of hay....you just cant do that with a tractor that can only lift 1000lbs.

my advice is dont worry about anything except FEL capacity and cost. the FEL capacity will stop you from buying something to small, and cost will stop you from buying somethign to big

Truth^

I've got an MX5800 and bought it when I had almost 6 acres for two reasons. First, I had about 300 stumps I needed to dig out and it took about an hour with the BX, MX5800 started popping them in six minutes. Second, I knew someday I wanted new land but didn't want to have to upgrade my tractor...again. When I did my shopping I was looking at the smaller MX but Barlow's hooked me up and I got the 5800 and was still under what I had budgeted even with a 500 mile road trip. I wish at times the MX was heavier, if I have the grapple on it is unsafe to lift ANYTHING unless I have an implement on the back.

I've never regretted going big, I regretted going small twice even with not much land just because some chores took nearly as long as they would have if I was using a shovel but the tractor never needed a break (BXs).
 
   / Too much tractor? #25  
Bigger tractors are more expensive to operate. Parts are more expensive (though you might be less likely to break something that is over-sized) and you're going to burn more fuel (not likely a lot more, but it's something to consider). General maintenance will also cost more (larger fluid capacities; filters are more expensive). AND, you can do a lot more damage to things that you might not want to damage (if you're not careful).

Lots of good points and I'm not going to argue that bigger tractors will cost more but my cost for running a MX compared to a BX is really close. BX would be about .5-.6 gph, MX does about .7-.8 gph averaged. Filter set is within about $40, new fluids within about $70, amortize that over the by hour cost between services and we're talking less than a dollar an hour difference? Granted I haven't broken anything so that part remains to be seen:eek:
 
   / Too much tractor?
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Went with the L4400, '08 - 157 hours on it.

Test drove a L3901; it felt a little light after having been on the MX4700 ("light" being relative, everything's a matter of perspective, right?)

The 4400 seemed to be the sweet spot in between: still in the compact category, but heavier than the newer 01 models, and with a more substantial FEL. I shouldn't have any issues hauling it with my 1/2 ton truck. The HP at the PTO ought to be enough for me to add most implements I might consider. The fact that it doesn't have the emissions crap on it is a bonus, and less than 200 hours to boot!!

It was plainly taken care of, but sat for a time in a shed; the owner went into a nursing home and the wife finally decided no one in the family was going to use it. I'm going to pick it up Tuesday - a 3 hour trip I'm highly anticipating. My first order of business is changing the oil/filter, checking the belt and other fluids and filters. I've already talked to the parts department at my local dealer about filters, oil, and other consumables. Could have ordered online, but many posts here urge a relationship with locals. Still need a good operator's manual. Anything else you recommend putting under the microscope?

Putting up a photo my wife took, ignore that old, fat balding guy sitting on it. :D
 

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   / Too much tractor? #27  
Greasing is the second most frequent maintenance on my L3560, after fueling.

Kubota calls for FEL to be greased every ten operating hours, the balance of the tractor every fifty operating hours.

Get a cartridge grease gun and a Lock & Lube coupler for the gun to zerk connection. Coupler is value at $30. Moly grease is Kubota standard.

I would secure a rag around the PTO splines and dampen rag with Blaster, WD-40 or diesel and let it soak. I bet there is hard material in the indentations which will make connecting a PTO shaft difficult until crud is dissolved and wiped out.

Clean the battery terminals and apply electrolytic grease. If you track down this specialty grease (Amazon/eBay) you will only have to grease the battery terminals once every five years.

Congratulations on the Kubota. You hit the sweet spot, indeed.
 
   / Too much tractor?
  • Thread Starter
#28  
Get a cartridge grease gun and a Lock & Lube coupler for the gun to zerk connection.

Thanks Jeff. I do have a cartridge grease gun, but haven't heard of the coupler you mention. From the name, it sounds like it helps keep the hose end locked on the zerk while you push grease to it.

The dealer included an HST filter in the quote of what I should replace. Does replacing that filter without draining the hydraulic fluid present any problems? I assume if the hydraulics are not under pressure they're shouldn't be a gusher coming out of the filter mount when it's removed.

I'd like to have a sun shade on the ROPS for these 100 degree Louisiana summers, but the cost for something so seemingly insubstantial is difficult to justify. I'd rather have a hard plastic/fiberglass canopy than a lightweight umbrella, but am having trouble finding an inexpensive solution.

Since I've moved from the buying/comparison phase to operating, maintenance and parts, I'll probably begin a new thread in the appropriate forum.
 

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