Too much work for a compact tractor?

AxleHub · Jul 6, 2016

I'm a little confused. The picture of your radiatir shows no fan. The kubota bx models use a forward cooling system I like well . . Does the b series unit you have system use the same thing? If so . . The fan is "behind" your radiator as would be the screen to keep the radiator clear of debris.

Have you cleaned that screen and any buildup that is on the radiator ?

Zooming in on your pucture I see what looks like a screen directly behind your hydro cooling pipe run . So maybe the fan is somehow behind that and thebradiator ?? If so you have very poor air flow because the battery blocks the way for air flow to a significant degree.

Does your engine temp gauge get quite warm indications ?

Remember . . If you have a front flow system then the picture you supplied is of "the back" of the system and not the front of it. And if you have a front push system like cars and some tractors . . how is air flow getting a good chance to cool your unit with the battery right there ??

TNGP · Jul 6, 2016

I should have specified. The air output of the fan is throwing air, but it's not pulling it over my hand from the front. To compare it, if you put your hand in from of a full size truck radiator, you'll feel the air flow over your fan in front of the radiator.

But, I did check the debris trap and the actual radiator finnage. Both are clear. I'm thinking maybe just an inadequate fan design compared to today's fans.

TNGP · Jul 6, 2016

So the black tubing is at the very front of the tractor. Behind it is the debris screen then radiator. The fan is a puller type behind that and is run by the engines pulley system.

Everything is clean and clear in the radiator and debris grill all the way out of the tractor grill. I'm wondering if the battery location is causing the issue like you said. The battery only leaves about 1 inch or less to the radiator...

I've been debating a battery relocation to get the weight further upfront, possibly in the brush guard I need to have made.

buickanddeere · Jul 6, 2016

A laser gun temp reader was an improvement back in the day. Now infrared cameras that plug into smart phone are low cost. The display allows the operator to find hot and cold spots a laser gun can miss. An image can be stored and actual temperature at the crosshairs recorded .
150F can feel hot to the hand yet the oil is barely warmed up.
Radiators that look clean but still have plugged fins are all too common. Worn fan and alternator pulleys with a glazed belt is the norm as most are not tightened until over heating occurs and after wearing out. A new belt can be cranked down tight enough to not slip on worn pulleys however bearing life will be shortened.

aczlan · Jul 6, 2016

If you put a light on one side of the radiator, can you easily see through the radiator fins? You might not be getting enough airflow through the radiator to cool the transmission cooler.

Aaron Z

TNGP · Jul 6, 2016

I checked it and it was fine. You can see through it. I went ahead and sprayed it with the hose the best I could in all the nooks and crannies, but I think the fan just doesn't have enough suction for cooling in hot weather. I've got computer fans that push 240cfm and it feels like more air then the 10inch stock fan.

prichard · Jul 6, 2016

This is not adding up. Your engine temp guage is normal, your trans temp idiot light is off. What's the problem? Doesn't sound like there is one. If the fan was inadequate your engine temp would be high.

Grandad4 · Jul 6, 2016

Your radiator looks plenty clean. The fact your engine doesn't seem to be overheating suggests there's sufficient air flow. One thing not previously discussed is your operating practices. You mentioned using low range for some of your heavy work but have not commented on the engine rpm range being used. If you are under-revving the engine, it can force the HST and other hydraulic functions to operate with insufficient flow of hydraulic fluid. This will generate heat and is not good for the hydraulics. Keeping the rpms high enough to provide adequate flow will improve operating efficiency and minimize the potential for damage, particularly when working the equipment hard.

And without specific temperature information, having your HST lines feel generally about as hot as the radiator under those conditions is about right when doing hard work.

TNGP · Jul 6, 2016

Yep. Those are all the parts. The "idiot" light isn't on - assuming the sensor is still in calibration after 12 years. The engine doesn't overheat based off that sensor or light. The problem is the HST cooling. The airflow doesn't seem to be adaquate to cool the HST. While 150F is hot, I can grab and hold 150F items. The HST feels hotter than that. But with that said, I do need to get myself a thermal camera for my smart phone so the Temps are just speculation...