Tool or proceedure to remove ps cylinders

skylarkguy · Jul 8, 2015

MitchellB said:
I've seen pickle forks bits made to fit in an air hammer that I have often thought would work much better than the hand-held, beat with a big hammer style, but I have yet to resort to needing it or buying one. However, if you have an air hammer, that would be what I'd try on a stubborn ball joint like that. I'm a big fan of air hammers and air tools in general to make work go easier, faster and smoother.

Some day perhaps I will upgrade to air tools, I have seen them work wonders. I know the attachment you are talking about.

skylarkguy · Jul 8, 2015

Jim L said:
If you're just going to replace the packing,you don't have to remove them at all. You can use the PS cylinder's own hydraulic pressure to push the seals out and then slide on the new seals. You have to screw out the chrome shaft from the balljoint, but leave the balljoint bolted to the tie rod. Remove the snap ring on the packing and just loosen the clamp on the balljoint and screw the shaft out. Then turn your steering wheel EASILY and the pressure will push the seals right off.

This is an interesting idea. I was wondering if this is the way to go. I'm pretty sure that I need to pull the entire cylinder because the rod has a 3 inch spot of corrosion on it....the chrome is gone. I'm pretty sure that this rough spot is what is causing the seal to fail. When i got the machine going it dribbled, now it leaks all the fluid as quick as the pump can move it.

skylarkguy · Jul 8, 2015

Well thanks for all the good advice. I bought a new picklefork and became less of a chicken about swinging the hammer. Both came off relatively straightforwardly. The left one i'll probably be able to just get away with seals. The right cylinder is much worse. Picts show the rough spot on the shaft...but worse how badly it is bent. (Straightedge for reference) I've a feeling this is gonna get expensive.

Ultradog MN · Jul 8, 2015

Got a high lift jack?
Loosen the nut till it's flush with the end of the bolt.
Then use the jack to lift up on the bolt.
Then smack the tie rod with a BFH.
EZ

Soundguy · Jul 9, 2015

skylarkguy said:
Well thanks for all the good advice. I bought a new picklefork and became less of a chicken about swinging the hammer. Both came off relatively straightforwardly. The left one i'll probably be able to just get away with seals. The right cylinder is much worse. Picts show the rough spot on the shaft...but worse how badly it is bent. (Straightedge for reference) I've a feeling this is gonna get expensive.

View attachment 432309

View attachment 432310

the simple worn part on the rod isn't much of an issue if it is polished smooth.. for a old tractor ps system.. however the bend ruins the rod.. and the one with a wear mark, check for a bend on that one too..

skylarkguy · Jul 9, 2015

Dropped it off with "my" hydraulics guy today. The wear mark is likely caused by the bent rod...he is going to explore some options...maybe a new rod maybe a whole cylinder. The other cylinder is in great shape comparatively.....so if anyone has a source where i might find a replacement please let me know.

Soundguy · Jul 9, 2015

247$ eBay, 2 listed

I searched for:

Ford tractor steering cylinder

3 pages of hits, 2 correct ones were on page 2

skylarkguy · Jul 9, 2015

Excellent sg. Thanks. The tractor store in eugene has one for $244 including both joints...i'll see what the hydro guy says about a new rod in the original.

Soundguy · Jul 10, 2015

Cool...

zombie · Jul 17, 2015

I wouldn't be surprised if it ends up about the same to have a rod made as opposed to buying a new cylinder. On the other hand, when you give that kind of business to the local hydraulic guy, he's much more willing to help later on, which nearly always out weighs the savings early on. Also a wave at ya from a little ways up I-5 :wave: