Tooth Bar Home Run

Matt W · Jul 30, 2021

I've been looking for a tooth bar since getting the T6 a few months back. Everything I found was a long drive and somewhat expensive. Picked this up today 5 miles from my home for $80!!! Looks like I'll be cutting 3 inches from both ends and welding it back together. Unless someone here has a better idea of where to remove the 6 inch excess?

Carl_NH · Jul 30, 2021

Suggest cutting 6" from the middle with one weld in the center with a gusset from the removed piece to reinforce it.

Or cut 6" off one end - goal to only have one weld joint.

Deere Dude · Jul 31, 2021

I would cut from one end. I think the teeth will still look symetrical. as if the stone pile would care. It was a good deal for a toothbar like that.

old and tired · Jul 31, 2021

I cut off one end of mine, to make it fit... I wouldn't do two unless you like to weld!!! Dang, $80 bucks... I got mine for $100 and thought I stole it!!!

Matt W · Aug 1, 2021

Thanks all, but I just couldn't do it asymmetrically. The cutting and welding was a pleasure compared to grinding all the shanks to fit my slightly thicker bucket lip than what they were meant for.
Yeah Old and tired, I didn't even attempt to dicker. There was rust but no wear, used just enough to get the paint off the teeth.

69 SS · Aug 1, 2021

Good job, did the same for a tooth bar that came off of a Bush Hog 2240 QT that was on 1710 Ford. I made 2 cuts per side so that I could keep symmetrical teeth pattern. 2 welds and it was a done deal. Painted it Chevrolet Orange and it looks like a factory tooth bar on the Kubota Orange 66 inch bucket on my L 3901. Picked up another Kubota bucket from used equipment dealer and now I don't have to take the tooth bar out ,just do the quick attachment thing and don't have to lift 120 lb tooth bar in and out of bucket. BTW , had to add a 4 inch wide X 1/2 thick X 66 inch long steel filler plate to account for difference between the 2 different bucket lip thickness.