tooth bar parts for the do-it-yourselfers

jdrotert · Feb 22, 2002

I've been wanting a tooth bar a while now but just could not give up the approximately $250 for a 48" bar. I have a welder and a machine shop at my disposal, so I try to fabricate most things I need. I have more time than money right now, so I set out to research how I was going to make my own tooth bar. I could go to the local Bobcat dealer and get replaceable teeth, but I just could not figure out how I was gonna cut tooth shanks out of 1-3/16" steel!! I get an idea to e-mail Steve Carver (Carver Equipment) and ask him if he could sell me just the tooth shanks and replaceable teeth. For about a week now, Steve (along with his parts manager- Terry Giles) and I have been e-mailing back and forth about the tooth bar parts. To make a long story short, Steve got me prices for the tooth shanks, replaceable teeth AND the roll pins to hold the teeth on the shank. With his blessing, I am posting the prices he gave me: tooth shanks (1-3/16" thick steel)- $9.90 ea., replaceable tooth (1-3/4" wide, 3/8 steel)- $5.90 ea. and 1/4" roll pin- $.50. My cost-shipped-for all my parts was right at $100!! Give Steve a call or e-mail him-Carvequip@aol.com. He was very friendly AND helpful!!

jdrotert · Apr 1, 2002

Well, I finally got around to building the toothbar. Attached is an assembly mock-up of the pieces prior to welding. As mentioned in the prior post, I purchased tooth shanks and teeth from Carver Equipment. I purchased a length of 3/4"x4" steel from a local scrap dealer and cut it to length. I then had the leading edge angle milled to match the tooth shanks. I used some scrap 1/2" steel for the side attachment plates from a used snow plow edge I had laying around. I also purchased some 5/8"x1-1/4" bolts with nuts and lockwashers.

A couple of tips:
When you measure for the overall width, subtract 1/8" before cutting the base to length. This allows 1/16" on each side for a little play.

Drill the holes in the side attachment plates before welding. Use a 1/4" drill first, then a 21/32" drill (1/32" larger than 5/8"). Go slow and use lots of oil. It took me about 45 minutes to drill the holes in the plates and the bucket. Drill the holes in the bucket only after the toothbar is completed. Drill from the inside with a 1/4" drill, then use the 21/32" drill from the outside.

The holes in the tooth shanks and replaceable teeth are somewhat imperfect. Use a drill to SLIGHTLY ream out the holes BEFORE you weld the shanks to the plate. I didn't do this and fought two teeth in getting the roll pin tapped in.

My scrap 3/4"x4" steel had a slight bow in it. It was bowed up in the middle. I clamped it to the bucket to straighten it before welding. As the welds cooled, the plate became less bowed. The whole toothbar does not slip on easily for me, so I tilt the bucket down and force it on.

I will be posting pics tomorrow of the completed toothbar. I have to take some tonight.

winchman · Apr 1, 2002

John,

I like it. I also don't have the extra money right now to purchase one, but have access to a welder, machine shop, and for $100 I'm going to copy your idea if you don't mind.
Thanks for the info. Would love to see it in action. I can justify $100 and a little time, but could'nt justify the $250 plus shipping.

winchman

jdrotert · Apr 2, 2002

Attached is the finished toothbar. I dug a little last night and boy, what a difference! Please ignore the oil on the floor. I followed my own tips and used "liberal" amounts of oil for drilling. It cleaned up fine. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

PowerMax · Apr 2, 2002

Nice job, John. It looks really good - like 'factory'.

Jeff

Mark_in_NH · Apr 2, 2002

John,
Real nice piece of work. With work that nice, looks like you may have found a new side line.
So when do you start taking orders?

jdrotert · Apr 2, 2002

Mark,
I hope you're joking!! I only trust my welding to my own use. If a weld comes loose, it's my fault. My cost was $100 for six tooth shanks, 6 replaceable teeth and roll pins. I still needed a 3/4"x4" plate 47" long and two smaller 1/2" plates. The extra steel cost was in the range of $20-$30 (don't really know-it was free), plus the bottom 3/4" plate needed to have an angle milled on the leading edge (approximately 1/2-3/4 hr labor- free for me also). That leaves another approximately $60 for a skilled fabricator to weld all the parts. Pretty good deal to me, but I really liked to have a toothbar, but could not justify the $250 cost (plus shipping).

If I had to build one for someone else exactly like the one I made, it would cost $250. For that price you can get one from Carver Equipment professionally made.

BTW, I enjoy designing parts I need/want and I have fun sticking steel parts together. I guess it's one of my many hobbies.

Mark_in_NH · Apr 2, 2002

John,
I look at all the differant attachments and implements that the TBNr's have designed and fabricated and I say to myself, DANG !!!!! It would sure be handy to know how to weld !! and then maybe someday I can add my own creation to the TBN library.
SO, learning to weld will hopefully be on my list of things to do this year.

kcbarnes · Apr 2, 2002

You done good. whats your next project?

forestcreature · Apr 2, 2002

anyone wanting to learn welding could probably find a course at their local community college or tech college.
[where i grew up, basic welding and small engine repair were popular courses]