Tooth bar

   / Tooth bar #1  

Anonymous Poster

Epic Contributor
Joined
Sep 27, 2005
Messages
29,678
I recently purchased a CK 20 with a KL120 FEL with a 54" bucket with separate tooth bar and the toothbar looks to me to be for a heavier duty bucket. The bar itself is 2" shorter then the bucket and fits real bad on the cutting edge of the bucket. My dealer says to add some washers to each side and it will work fine cause the tork is on the edge of the bucket any way. I don't buy it. I have some pictures of the bar on the bucket but I don't know how to downsize them to post them but can email them if you ned to see them, Thanks Jim
 
   / Tooth bar #2  
Jim...

See the attached pic of what a toothbar on a HD bucket should look like. Your dealer is telling you a tall tale. There shouldn't be a gap of 2 inches. Maybe, a quarter or half inch but not 2 inches. The toothbar should also fit snugly on the cutting edge without any significant wiggle room. If I were you, I'd take that toothbar back to your dealer and make sure he orders the correctly sized one from whatever vendor he buys them from.

...Bob
 

Attachments

  • 280571-HDbucket-HDtoothbar.jpg
    280571-HDbucket-HDtoothbar.jpg
    27.5 KB · Views: 583
   / Tooth bar #3  
...and here's a better front pictoral view of a properly sized toothbar on my 4 in 1 bucket.

...Bob
 

Attachments

  • 280574-4in1bucket-toothbar.jpg
    280574-4in1bucket-toothbar.jpg
    27.1 KB · Views: 546
   / Tooth bar #4  
I was going to post my pics, but those already here give you the idea. A 2" gap sounds like the wrong toothbar. I like having my teeth right on the outside of the bucket. The bucket's cutting edge should fit pretty well into the notches on the back of the teeth (not gapless, but at least 2/3 of the slot's depth.)
Mark
Mark
 
   / Tooth bar
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks for the pictures that helps alot . Thats the a toothbar is supposed to look like. The gap I have is unexceptable.( 1" on each side and a terrrible fit on the flange) I think the ordered the wrong bar and paid a $112.00 for shipping and dosen't want to eat that again. What gets me is that he knew how bad the fit was and still is trying to get me to take it. I will give him a chance to make the problem right before I slam the dealership too bad. He has been good up to this piont and deserves the benifit of the doubt.If I could figure out how to get a picture on here I would show you fit I'm talking about. Jim
 
   / Tooth bar #6  
Jim,

Go to the web site below and down load a free picture software that can reduce the size of the file for your picture. If the picture is bigger then 100,000 it will not take it.

web page

Click on download Infran View

Now lets see those pictures /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Tooth bar #7  
Re: toothbars - upon inquiry at a NH dealer about tooth bars, I was advised that they should be welded on, that they sold the individual teeth, and by welding them on, the bottom remained flush which he said was better. That did not sound right, but any substance to what he said ?
 
   / Tooth bar #8  
Hmmmm. It would make sense......EXCEPT, it doesn't for me:

Yes, the underside is a little rougher with the toothbar. But when I want smoother, it takes less than a minute to loosen the nuts and flip/hinge the toothbar into the bucket and less than 3 minutes to remove it totally. I want the option of having teeth and not having teeth - there are applications for both. If they are welded on, they are always there. Also, this winter I bolted a piece of horse stall mat on the leading edge to preserve my pavement during snow removal. The teeth would have snagged my driveway and torn in up.

So, the toothbar is the way to go....IMHO.

Mark
 
   / Tooth bar #9  
<font color="blue"> "...I was advised that they should be welded on,...That did not sound right, but any substance to what he said?..." </font>

I wouldn't do this. First off, you may want to remove the toothbar when you don't need it. For example, pushing snow in winter is a bit more simple without the toothbar on. Also, when you want to back drag with your FEL to smooth out areas you're working on, it's much easier to do this without the toothbar on. You also have maximum use of the bucket's cutting edge when working on tasks that require scraping ground terrain. I think you would want to maintain flexibility. It doesn't take much to remove a bolt-on toothbar. For whatever reason, it sounds like that NH dealer just wants to sell a welded on toothbar.

...Bob
 
   / Tooth bar #10  
Note to all Interested in Toothbars: as noted in previous posts bolt on's offer the most flexibility and should fit properly (no 2" gaps). They come in medium and heavy duty, in different lengths, and the support for them comes from the cutting edge of your bucket... not the bolts! If you want one that meets your needs and fits properly and is priced right call Mark Brucker at K.C. Canary 516 853 3405... (see RANCAR's picture, that's where he got his and I got mine)... Canary is great to do business with (no I do not get a commission... I'm just a very satisfied customer of theirs) and they ship ANYWHERE! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2017 Ford F-450 Crew Cab Mason Dump Truck (A50323)
2017 Ford F-450...
2016 GENIE GTH1056 TELESCOPIC FORKLIFT (A51242)
2016 GENIE GTH1056...
2016 PETERBILT 579 TANDEM AXLE SLEEPER (A51219)
2016 PETERBILT 579...
2016 John Deere TS Gator Utility Cart (A48082)
2016 John Deere TS...
19008 (A48082)
19008 (A48082)
TEST YOUR BID BUTTON! (A51242)
TEST YOUR BID...
 
Top