Toothbar for BX22
- Thread starter RichT
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DieselD
Bronze Member
- Joined
- Jun 2, 2003
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- 74
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- New York
- Tractor
- Kioti LB1914home use. JD 310SG Pilot controls, Cat 325BL long stick, Sterling Actera
Rich , don't want to tell you some bad news but, Your teeth should be level with the bottom edge, so they can cut and lift into the bucket. There on too much of an up angle /
Danny
Danny
Henro
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2003
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- 4,982
- Location
- Few miles north of Pgh, PA
- Tractor
- Kubota B2910, BX2200, KX41-2V mini EX
<font color="blue"> Your teeth should be level with the bottom edge, so they can cut and lift into the bucket. </font>
Here is a side shot of my toothbar...the teeth are essentially like DieselD says...only a very slight downward angle. for all practical purposes level with the bottom of the bucket.
I think the reason for this is that if you have a level indicator on your bucket you know when the bucket is level the teeth are level too.
I imagine teeth angled up would be much better than teeth angled too far down, since you can lift the rear of the bucket to make angled-up teeth dig in. Whereas angled down teeth would be very aggressive and could not be leveled becaue the rear of the bucket would hit the ground...
Here is a side shot of my toothbar...the teeth are essentially like DieselD says...only a very slight downward angle. for all practical purposes level with the bottom of the bucket.
I think the reason for this is that if you have a level indicator on your bucket you know when the bucket is level the teeth are level too.
I imagine teeth angled up would be much better than teeth angled too far down, since you can lift the rear of the bucket to make angled-up teeth dig in. Whereas angled down teeth would be very aggressive and could not be leveled becaue the rear of the bucket would hit the ground...
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RichT
Silver Member
Danny...I agree with you, level would be ideal. As Bill notes, with the teeth angled up it just takes a little practice to account for the angle between the bucket and tooth. I think its a fairly easy mod to level the toothbar, some steel stock at the rear of the plate and elongated bolt attachment holes should do it.
JimC
Silver Member
I have been wondering about a tooth bar and decided to build one to see if they are worth while.
I used 1/4" X 1.5" for the bar, 1.5" angle for attaching and a 1/8" X 1.5" leading edge, 1/4" X 1.5" X 3" for the teeth and some 1" square heavy wall tubing for the shanks.
All the metal was left over from another project, so I will have to guess the cost, A 20 foot piece of steel strap is only a small amount higher than a 10 foot piece which is why I have left overs. I am sure the cost would be under $20.
The result works fine, Very worth while tool, not as nice looking as some but convinced me of the value of a tooth bar.
I used 1/4" X 1.5" for the bar, 1.5" angle for attaching and a 1/8" X 1.5" leading edge, 1/4" X 1.5" X 3" for the teeth and some 1" square heavy wall tubing for the shanks.
All the metal was left over from another project, so I will have to guess the cost, A 20 foot piece of steel strap is only a small amount higher than a 10 foot piece which is why I have left overs. I am sure the cost would be under $20.
The result works fine, Very worth while tool, not as nice looking as some but convinced me of the value of a tooth bar.
JimC
Silver Member
gilmo1938
New member
That looks great! do you have any pics of what the bottom of the bucket (with tooth bar) looks like?
Gilmo
Gilmo
