toothbar theories

   / toothbar theories #31  
rvtech said:
Another opinion. I have a toothbar I ordered shortly after I got my 2305 J.D. I don't like it. I have used it 3 different times with no success. It may just be me, but
I loose traction while trying to dig. It makes my 2305 wheel hop to the extreme. I can't back drag without removing it.
1*I have much better success moving dirt with a tiller and loader without the toothbar.
2*I can't get it to work in clay and rock and that's all there is here in Ohio.
I could see where it may be useful for moving brush, but I never do that.

1*I'm with you on that.
I much prefer a tiller over a tooth bar.
For breaking up the ground I have 2 tillers.
1 on a 67 Bolens and the other on a CC 2554 .
The BX23 BH is a splendid breaker upper also.
Especially on the tops of dirt piles where tillers and tooth bars can't go.
2*We have clay here in OHIO at the junction of the Ohio & Miskingum Rivers.
Rock is not a problem on my 2.33 acre share of Washington County.

We went through Sunbury many times for several years going to visit my wife's sister who lived in Delaware Ohio from the early seventies to 1985.
 
   / toothbar theories #32  
The answer is, bigger tractor,four wheel drive ,and locking traction. The question was how do we dig in Ohio clay. With one wheel drive penetration is poor before loss of traction. Leave the roots and rocks to the backhoe, when not clearing hard packed clay out of it.
 
   / toothbar theories #34  
I haven't removed my toothbar since installing it.
Digging MUCH better.
Clearing MUCH better.
Grappling MUCH better.
Moving piles of "stuff" MUCH better.

I'd like to add to those saying toothbars are better for dense materials.
I have been moving woodchips, 10 yard loads , and I am on my 5th or 6th load. The toothbar also allows better/easier penetration into woodchips and mulch piles, for all the same reasons.

Mine will be removed for snow clean-up. That's about the only thing I can think of, at my place that will require "sans toothbar".

My buddy down the street has horses, and for stall/barn cleaning he needs the virgin straight edge on his bucket for scooping off of the floor and scraping everything out the back door. In this case the bucket is a giant dust pan.
But, once the manure/bedding is outside, I have noticed when moving/working his manure piles, the toothbar would be much more efficient.

The toothbar is a major improvement and makes you more productive. This saves time and fuel. You could probably make the case that in it's usable lifespan, the toothbar pays for itself.

I vote [x]YES for Toothbars!!
 
   / toothbar theories #35  
rvtech said:
Another opinion. I have a toothbar I ordered shortly after I got my 2305 J.D. I don't like it. I have used it 3 different times with no success. It may just be me, but I can't get it to work in clay and rock and that's all there is here in Ohio. I loose traction while trying to dig. It makes my 2305 wheel hop to the extreme. I can't back drag without removing it. I have much better success moving dirt with a tiller and loader without the toothbar. I could see where it may be useful for moving brush, but I never do that.

You need to change your digging technique. The 2305 is a small tractor so you need to take smaller bites. It will still dig just fine in rocks & clay (what I have) and the toothbar will make it MUCH better. Just take your time. If you are getting wheel hop then you're trying to take too much at once. I promise that even with smaller bites, using your toothbar and digging will be faster than using a tiller first and then cleaning it up with the bucket.

I just had some grading work done at my house and even the pros with a BIG skidloader were taking pretty small bites. Packed ground isn't like mulch or topsoil. They would often use a technique of pointing the bucket at the ground and backing up to use the toothbar to break up the ground. This technique is NOT recommended for the 2305! The skid loaders and some larger tractors are made to handle the stress on the cylinder arms, but ours is not.
 
   / toothbar theories #36  
Loogie said:
You need to change your digging technique. The 2305 is a small tractor so you need to take smaller bites. It will still dig just fine in rocks & clay (what I have) and the toothbar will make it MUCH better. Just take your time. If you are getting wheel hop then you're trying to take too much at once. I promise that even with smaller bites, using your toothbar and digging will be faster than using a tiller first and then cleaning it up with the bucket.

I just had some grading work done at my house and even the pros with a BIG skidloader were taking pretty small bites. Packed ground isn't like mulch or topsoil. They would often use a technique of pointing the bucket at the ground and backing up to use the toothbar to break up the ground. This technique is NOT recommended for the 2305! The skid loaders and some larger tractors are made to handle the stress on the cylinder arms, but ours is not.


Agreed.

I don't think of my loader as a digging tool but when using it to forwarrd scrape brush and topsoil I can't do it if I angle the teeth down much from level. It'll dig in and raise my front wheels off the ground and quickly stop the tractor forward progress. A small adjustment of the bucket angle upward in relation to the ground gets me going again.

Toothbars would gain entry and make the initial ground breaking much easier in clay, I'd think, but it's got to be done actively with a good feel for what's going on up there where you can't see much.
 
   / toothbar theories #37  
I don't have a FEL, but with todays quick attach buckets, I would think that a second bucket would be the trick. One with, one without the tooth bar.
David from jax
 
   / toothbar theories #38  
Howdy,
I just found this site. I have been a farmer for only one year- not even any crops in the ground yet! I married a farm girl, so she has an opinion about every detail of running the farm... My question:

I'd like to put a tooth bar on my JD 4210 27 hp tractor. My wife says that the load would blow the hydraulic lines. I have already carried bucket loads of rocks and hopped the front wheels when scraping.

I would think that an overload on the hydraulics would just not lift, scrap, or otherwise move. Surely, i can't blow the hydraulic lines on the loader?!

Thanks for your opinions.
Ed
 
   / toothbar theories #39  
I have a landscape bar from H&H Manufacturing. Has helped the digging, grubs up prickley pear fairly well, and sure did a fine job of getting that dead stinking deer out of my old goat barn--the deer would not have fit in my bucket but the bar was enough to scoop him up.
 
   / toothbar theories #40  
elulofs said:
Howdy,
I just found this site. I have been a farmer for only one year- not even any crops in the ground yet! I married a farm girl, so she has an opinion about every detail of running the farm... My question:

I'd like to put a tooth bar on my JD 4210 27 hp tractor. My wife says that the load would blow the hydraulic lines. I have already carried bucket loads of rocks and hopped the front wheels when scraping.

I would think that an overload on the hydraulics would just not lift, scrap, or otherwise move. Surely, i can't blow the hydraulic lines on the loader?!

Thanks for your opinions.
Ed
Hi Ed and welcome to TBN.
No, you should not "blow a hose" by adding a toothbar. Your fel lift capacity will remain the same minus the weight of the toothbar. Generally, there is a pressure relief valve that prevents blow outs. If you've had heavy loads in your fel bucket, ones you couldn't lift, then it is working fine.
 
 

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