Toothbars and Trees

   / Toothbars and Trees #1  

TNhobbyfarmer

Veteran Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2004
Messages
1,185
Location
Middle Tennessee
Tractor
Kubota L3430 Polaris Ranger 500
When the weather breaks in the spring, I have some serious clearing to do. I have a pretty good sized tractor, NH TN75 4X4, 70 HP, 72 inch bucket with new toothbar. What diameter tree can I attack with that equipment and expect to come out the winner? I'm looking forward to the challenge but don't want to bite off more than I can chew.
 
   / Toothbars and Trees #2  
What diameter tree can I attack with that equipment and expect to come out the winner?

Tree variety and soils will have a lot to do with answering your question. I've had pretty easy results with my rig against 6" gums in some spots, and had a tough time 75' away. And a 3" oak is a lot different than a 3" privet...
I would think you'll just have to try it and see how you come out. Some will be easier than others, but with your rig you should be able to clear a lot if your problem is with relatively small trees. It won't take long to figure out where your limitations are.
There's nothing magic about the toothbar, other than it enhances your digging ability and helps to get underneath the surface roots for smaller trees/shrubs. I'm not taking away from the advantages, as I wouldn't be without mine, but it's not a cure-all!
 
   / Toothbars and Trees #3  
I'm not sure of your goal? I can pull out a 2-3" tree with my 85hp tractor. But, depends on the soil conditions & the type of tree - some have shallow roots, some deep. We have heavy clay soil, hardwoods.

I'd use the bucket for cleanup.

--->Paul
 
   / Toothbars and Trees #4  
As others noted, it depends... I have a 20hp tractor but can get up 2-3 inch weed trees (softwood). I do need to spend some time undermining and ripping up the root system, I don't just take them in a single bite. My technique is to push the tree over with the FEL then back up and undermine it with the toothbar. I just keep "nibbling" with the curl function until it is free enough that I can easily spear the remaining intact root ball and then drive forward to break it loose. Anything more than 3 inches and I use the backhoe instead.

Attached is a photo of about the size tree I took out with the FEL/toothbar alone.

I would imagine that a heavier more powerful tractor/FEL combo would be effective with somewhat larger trees.
 

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   / Toothbars and Trees #5  
The variety of tree will have everything to do with diameter.
Taprooted trees are very difficult, even small ones. They will usually just bend or break.On smaller 4-8 "surface rooted varieties you can drop bucket 2-3' away during approach and get a cut toward base of tree, then lift bucket (with dirt)and push tree over. The weight of dirt in bucket helps fell stubborn trees that won't quite fall all the way. Just lower bucket on trunk to finish them. It works in my sandy loam. Clay could be more difficult. It takes a little practice to figure where on trunk to attack them. Too low and you don't get right leverage. Too high and you break tree and lose the weight of the treetop to help you.
 
 

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