Top and Tilt l2501 DIY

   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY
  • Thread Starter
#11  
From reading the forum I see "Magister Hydraulics" mentioned so I looked them up. They are local to me in NJ, well a couple of hours away and have free same day shipping baked into the cost.

The valves look to be a similar cost to others but their made in Europe hoses are cheaper than I've seen.

What size hose "id" do I need to get?

I found a post on the orange forum where Theoldhokie listed the fittings required to do this. I will be sure to list the part numbers etc once I have it sorted out for future lurkers.
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY #12  
For the main hoses, Power In and Power Beyond out, get them the same size as the rest of your tractor which I believe is 3/8".

For running hoses to TnT - I used 3/8" but then had to quickly get an adjustable Needle Valve (one that worked in both directions) to slow down the speed. I bought the adjustable ones but frankly, never changed it from the original settings.

If I were to do it again, I would use 1/4" hoses rated for 4000 PSI or higher... I used that for my grapple.


=============================================

So is this the spool you thinking about using? 3 spool x 13 GPM hydraulic control valve, monoblock cast iron valve | Magister Hydraulics

So, for me, I had top and tilt hydraulics about a year or more before I got the grapple, I just removed the middle handle - until I needed it, On my spool, everything was SAE 8; I removed the metal plugs from the in and the out ports and plugged my middle work ports.

I believe those red covers are SAE 8 but are just plastic. Your in and out ports are SAE 10 so you might ask them if you need to buy SAE 8 metal plugs to block the middle work port off safely until you have a need for it.
 
Last edited:
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY
  • Thread Starter
#13  
For the main hoses, Power In and Power Beyond out, get them the same size as the rest of your tractor which I believe is 3/8".

For running hoses to TnT - I used 3/8" but then had to quickly get an adjustable Needle Valve (one that worked in both directions) to slow down the speed. I bought the adjustable ones but frankly, never changed it from the original settings.

If I were to do it again, I would use 1/4" hoses rated for 4000 PSI or higher... I used that for my grapple.


=============================================

So is this the spool you thinking about using? 3 spool x 13 GPM hydraulic control valve, monoblock cast iron valve | Magister Hydraulics

So, for me, I had top and tilt hydraulics about a year or more before I got the grapple, I just removed the middle handle - until I needed it, On my spool, everything was SAE 8; I removed the metal plugs from the in and the out ports and plugged my middle work ports.

I believe those red covers are SAE 8 but are just plastic. Your in and out ports are SAE 10 so you might ask them if you need to buy SAE 8 metal plugs to block the middle work port off safely until you have a need for it.
Thanks for the info on the hose. I had read about using the 1/4 hose to the cylinders to reduce flow, so I will go that way.

Yes that is the valve. The AB work ports list as SAE 8. I am ordering plugs as they are just over a dollar each and figured it would be good to have enough to cover all the work ports, should something require it in the future.

They don't seem to list individual fittings so I'm getting those from Discount Hydraulics in PA. They have a $10 off coupon for first timers so it looks like my fittings will be $25 plus shipping.

That place also sells cylinders but I haven't really looked at them yet. I will mount the valve and then measure up for the hoses and then order them.
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY #14  
While more money...
You can also get a 'stack' valve where you custom pick each spool, and make the 3rd one electric so you can plumb it to the front for a grapple, and control it with a switch on the joystick.
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY
  • Thread Starter
#15  
While more money...
You can also get a 'stack' valve where you custom pick each spool, and make the 3rd one electric so you can plumb it to the front for a grapple, and control it with a switch on the joystick.
I just had a quick google...but does that mean I can just buy the 2 spool valves I need now and if I want one later down the track ie an electric one for a grapple, I purchase said unit and it connects to the existing units for its supply etc?

Do you have a link handy for this?
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY #16  
but does that mean I can just buy the 2 spool valves I need now and if I want one later down the track ie an electric one for a grapple
Yes, you could. Would need longer bolts later however.

These are Bucher valves, top of the line stuff:

This is the Prince SV series, but I don't think they have electric spools like Bucher does.



Pictures from one of my customers. Four manual spools and one electric spool on a JD 790.



IMG_6902.jpeg



IMG_6904.jpeg
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Yes, you could. Would need longer bolts later however.

These are Bucher valves, top of the line stuff:

This is the Prince SV series, but I don't think they have electric spools like Bucher does.



Pictures from one of my customers. Four manual spools and one electric spool on a JD 790.



View attachment 4097005


View attachment 4097006
Thanks for the info.

I did look at those Prince valves and couldn't find a 12v valve. And whilst I think it's a great idea those Prince valves are expensive enough, but I would have considered it if they had the 12v.

If the Bucher are more expensive I will forget going this way, especially seeing as I'm throwing darts as to if I even need another valve down the track.
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY #18  
Yes, you could. Would need longer bolts later however.

These are Bucher valves, top of the line stuff:

This is the Prince SV series, but I don't think they have electric spools like Bucher does.


<snip>
I can attest that the Bucher valves are top notch. And if multiple floats are important to you, you can do that with the Bucher valves but not the Prince SV ones.
 
   / Top and Tilt l2501 DIY #20  
I can attest that the Bucher valves are top notch. And if multiple floats are important to you, you can do that with the Bucher valves but not the Prince SV ones.
You can do multiple float valves on a sv stack. I have 2 floats on my 3spool stack for the remotes on my L3240.
 

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