smooth_pilot
New member
- Joined
- Jun 16, 2008
- Messages
- 19
- Tractor
- Kubota L39
After my last round of filling potholes and spreading gravel on a driveway I decided that adding a top and tilt (TNT) system to adjust the box scraper would be a good idea. This would also involve adding rear remote hydraulic ports to my Kubota L39. I had hoped to use the backhoe ports but these become inoperative when the 3-point hitch cylinder is active.
I checked with my local dealer to see what these additions might cost. The quote for the L9553 Three-Spool Remote and L9554 TNT kits installed came to $2800. A bit more than I was hoping for, to say the least.
With this information I began considering a do-it-yourself project. I present myself before you to take advantage of your esteemed collective wisdom. There have been several projects in the past where, in retrospect, I wish I had just gone OEM.
I am leaning toward the Prince Mfg. SV series valves but am open to other input. They have a local distributor that seems more than happy to work with me, they have a bunch of stock work sections that can be assembled in a variety of configurations and the cost for a stack similar to Kubota's with the addition of a joystick and power-beyond would be under $500.
The Kubota kit appears to just be comprised of just three 4-way, spring-centered valves. No option for series routing, detents, power-beyond, float, fine metering, pilot-operated check valves or motor control.
I can envision that some of the valve options could add to the versatility of the hydraulics. Additionally, since my most frequent use for the remotes would be the TNT, it seemed that it would be very intuitive to operate two of the valves with a joystick; forward and back for pitch, side to side for roll. A third valve would be used for adjusting blade angle, disc harrow wedge, rear grapple or scarifier lift. A fourth valve with work ports open to tank in neutral might be added for running a remote motor. The PB ports would feed the remote valve on a wood splitter. What else do you guys (gals) use your hydraulics for?
Using series valves for the TNT circuits would seem likely to make simultaneous adjustments of both cylinders more positive. Would the pressure drop on a Cat. 1 TNT be too great with series flow to move the cylinders under load? Switching the two TNT work sections to series flow would add about $100 to the valve. Does anyone think it would be worth it?
After reading some of the other threads it seemed like going with electrohydraulic valves and a remote multifunction joystick might be a good way to go but decided that it would add unnecessary complexity. The location that Kubota uses to mount their valve would put the mechanical joystick in a comfortable position to run the TNT. Being able to feather the valves seems more valuable than the mounting flexibility offered by the electric joystick. I can't see that being able to operate a third (or fourth) function from the stick would be useful all that often.
Many posters have stated that they like the DPCV's on the CCM TNT cylinders. Using Prince SVL valves with built-in DPCV's on the TNT circuits would add about $150 to the valve stack but would then work with any cylinder attached to the valve. The downside would be that a burst hose would still drop the implement.
Please lay your thoughts on me before I turn on the money faucet!
I checked with my local dealer to see what these additions might cost. The quote for the L9553 Three-Spool Remote and L9554 TNT kits installed came to $2800. A bit more than I was hoping for, to say the least.
With this information I began considering a do-it-yourself project. I present myself before you to take advantage of your esteemed collective wisdom. There have been several projects in the past where, in retrospect, I wish I had just gone OEM.
I am leaning toward the Prince Mfg. SV series valves but am open to other input. They have a local distributor that seems more than happy to work with me, they have a bunch of stock work sections that can be assembled in a variety of configurations and the cost for a stack similar to Kubota's with the addition of a joystick and power-beyond would be under $500.
The Kubota kit appears to just be comprised of just three 4-way, spring-centered valves. No option for series routing, detents, power-beyond, float, fine metering, pilot-operated check valves or motor control.
I can envision that some of the valve options could add to the versatility of the hydraulics. Additionally, since my most frequent use for the remotes would be the TNT, it seemed that it would be very intuitive to operate two of the valves with a joystick; forward and back for pitch, side to side for roll. A third valve would be used for adjusting blade angle, disc harrow wedge, rear grapple or scarifier lift. A fourth valve with work ports open to tank in neutral might be added for running a remote motor. The PB ports would feed the remote valve on a wood splitter. What else do you guys (gals) use your hydraulics for?
Using series valves for the TNT circuits would seem likely to make simultaneous adjustments of both cylinders more positive. Would the pressure drop on a Cat. 1 TNT be too great with series flow to move the cylinders under load? Switching the two TNT work sections to series flow would add about $100 to the valve. Does anyone think it would be worth it?
After reading some of the other threads it seemed like going with electrohydraulic valves and a remote multifunction joystick might be a good way to go but decided that it would add unnecessary complexity. The location that Kubota uses to mount their valve would put the mechanical joystick in a comfortable position to run the TNT. Being able to feather the valves seems more valuable than the mounting flexibility offered by the electric joystick. I can't see that being able to operate a third (or fourth) function from the stick would be useful all that often.
Many posters have stated that they like the DPCV's on the CCM TNT cylinders. Using Prince SVL valves with built-in DPCV's on the TNT circuits would add about $150 to the valve stack but would then work with any cylinder attached to the valve. The downside would be that a burst hose would still drop the implement.
Please lay your thoughts on me before I turn on the money faucet!
