Top link- grease or anti-seize?

[5030]

Jerry:

I love farm auctions, right.......

I can't tell you how many times I have gotten equipment, wagons, etc., and got them home only to find out that they were never greased or maintained in any way. It's a testament to farm implement and tractor manufacturers that their products last so long with no maintenance whatsoever.

A couple of examples:
I borrowed (not bought) a 5 ton gear hay wagon a while ago, used it for rounds and going down the road the wheel fell off. Well, the cotter pin in the castle nut broke off because the bearing seized and turned it. I had to get a set of bearings, emery cloth the spindle and get it back together. When I got back I tried to grease the king pins and tie rod ends, well, the grease fittings were rusted over, replaced them and pumped in grease, the rusty goo coming out was awful. Of course I stood the bill, the farmer told me he greased everything and checked the bearings just a few months ago...right, a few decades ago maybe.

I bought my 1085 from another farmer. The TPH lift arms never saw grease, the front spindles were so sloppy that the tires rubbed them (machined a new set of bronze bushings), the PTO shaft outboard bearing had 10 balls left in it (machined the housing and replaced the bearing with an off the shelf unit) and when I pulled the shrouds, the radiator and oil cooler were so filled with crap I don't see how it didn't overheat, besides, the buffoon put the either to the Perkins and now I have to kit it as it's wet stacking.....a nice summer job. I think I have a broken ring in No.4

Farmers, though not all farmers, but a good percentage, don't maintain their implements or tractors. They'd rather sit around and drink beer, tell stories and moan about the price of grain, dwindling profits and how hard they "work". /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Without gummit subsidies, most farmers would go bankrupt and that is 90% their own doing but that's another story.

I always try to buy new but sometimes at an auction I get caught up in the excitement and make a foolish purchase and when I get it home the "fun" starts. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Sully2]

You said a mouthfull there...but ya dont see me disagreeing with you at all! It boils down to ..in a lot of cases...that SOME people CANT be their own boss.

 

[midlf]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( You said a mouthfull there...but ya dont see me disagreeing with you at all! It boils down to ..in a lot of cases...that SOME people CANT be their own boss. )</font>

And you wouldn't want them as an employee either.

 

[Sully2]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">(

And you wouldn't want them as an employee either. )</font>

In some cases..most definately...but Ive seen where guys that were top notch in what they did...seems ??..lost when they went into business for themselves... Could take directions as to what needed to be done fine..but seemed lost when doing the actual planning of what needed to be done.

 

[RalphVa]

I use silicone lube, as recommended by JD. Use it on all the 3 ph stuff. Recently put my brush hog on to do maintenance on it and attached the top link (normally use a chain in service) to raise it up. Turned the link to the shortest it would go, just using hand on the little bars that stick out to the side. It was easy to turn, even lifting the 400# weight of the brush hog with it.

Nice thing about silicone is it doesn't attract dirt like oil or grease does. It does wash off with water. You need to reapply if that area gets wet, and it tends to rub off the lift points, too.

Ralph

 

[5030]

Ralph:

The only problem with silicone, is the fact the once applied, especially by spray is if the spray gets on painted surfaces and you eventually want to re-paint that surface or touch it up (like I do with scratches), the silicone is real hard to remove and the paint will not stick on it, it will "fisheye".

 

[Soundguy]

He he he.. might as well lube it with brake fluid then.. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Yep.. been there / done that with the silicone. Had to use brak cleaner / carb cleaner to clean surface and anti-fish-eye addative for safety in the already expensive paint.

Soundguy

 

[Farmwithjunk]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Ralph:

The only problem with silicone, is the fact the once applied, especially by spray is if the spray gets on painted surfaces and you eventually want to re-paint that surface or touch it up (like I do with scratches), the silicone is real hard to remove and the paint will not stick on it, it will "fisheye". )</font>

How well I know. . . . I'm about to finish up on painting a tractor for a friend. He waxes it religiously. Even with sanding, priming, washing with wax remover, and MORE sanding, it still fish eyed big time. One fender and the hood had to be stripped and repainted.

 

[3RRL]

I'm surprised that your top link doesn't have a grease fitting on it? Mine does and the side links too. I use the marine grease...just a couple of strokes. I use anti-seize on componants that are exposed to high heat and cooling conditions. The cycles cause condesation leading to rust and sticking. I don't think it's necessary for the top link.

 

[5030]

Rob:

Get your head out from under that hood......you have turned it up as far as it will go, I think??? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif