Top Link Greasing 102

[Rusty]

What is the proper way to grease a top link that has no zerk fitting? My catagory 1 link from Tractor Supply Company has no zerk fitting, and has a hole drilled all the way through the link body tube near the center of the link body. This is the same hole that is used to turn the body to adjust link length. Thanks, in advance! Rusty

 

[Bird]

Just unscrew (lengthen) it a bit and put a little grease (or oil) on the exposed threads, screw them back in aways to lubricate all the threads to prevent corrosion. That's all it needs.

 

[Birdhunter1]

The only thing you'd need to grease is the threads or the balls.
I wouldn't shoot that tube on your top link full of grease because then it will just get your hand greased every time you go to adjust the length.

Honestly I wouldn't worry about it unless it is just plain difficult to turn it or the balls won't move freely.

 

[AndyMA]

The only thing you'd need to grease is the threads or the balls.
I wouldn't shoot that tube on your top link full of grease because then it will just get your hand greased every time you go to adjust the length.

Honestly I wouldn't worry about it unless it is just plain difficult to turn it or the balls won't move freely.

I use a can of Lithium White Grease tospray both the threads and the balls. If you don't keep the threads greased they will freeze. I have one that is frozen and heat, PB blaster and 36" pipe wrenches can't get it to turn.

Andy

 

[Rusty]

Bird, Birdhunter1, AndyMA - Thanks for the replies! I think that I was trying to make this much more difficult that it needs to be. I hadn't thought about the ball ends, I have never greased or oiled them. Thanks, again! Rusty

 

[Birdhunter1]

Keep in mind that grease coated items collect dust, which is why I have never greased the ball ends or the threads on a top link.

 

[BRUSHTAMERS]

I use 80-90 SAE. It doesn't collect dust and crud up as much as plain grease.Have to reapply more often though.

 

[Theowegian]

Since grease holds dust, I dont grease my toplink. I keep it clean and lube it with graphite, the kind of stuff used on locksets. Seems to work ok.

 

[Bird]

Dwight, I've not done it myself, but I think the graphite is a very good idea.

 

[normde2001]

I keep a "Plews" squirt oil can, ( good for 10 feet), full of 140w, walk around the tractor, and squirt anything that looks like it might need it

 

[waynokakid]

I use grease on the threads of my toplink and on the ball ends use a bicycle product from Finish Line. Synthetic Bicycle Lubricant, it is teflon fortifed. Works good for me. And it doesn't attract dust!

 

[California]

Just don't waste your time trying Liquid Wrench. I soaked a ton of LR into my top link threads and still galled the threads trying to get them unfrozen. LR doesn't seem to lubricate at all. I don't know what its good for.

My next attempt with a new can of PB Blaster then motor oil got it working smoothly. Lock graphite sounds like a better idea.

 

[Soundguy]

Another good thread lube is candle wax. Just unthread the ends.. run some wax down them from a cheapy white candle, then run them in. It's not wet.. doesn't atract dust.. and is a decent lube.. much in the same way bar soap is for hand saws or screws in wood.

I've used heated wax when trying to get stuck bolts out.. hea tthe joint with a torch.. apply the wax.. it is drawn in by capilary action, and then lubes decently ont he way out..

Soundguy

 

[Farmwithjunk]

2 ways I've done it. One is to use "dry slide lube" for lubing sickle bar mowers. (Basically, grafite) and Parafin (bars) that are sold for sealing canned goods. All of us "old school" carpenters keep a bar of parafin in our tool box for "lubing" the sides of our hand saws.

I'd stay away from oil or grease. They collect dirt as mentioned, as well as getting oil/grease all over your hands every time you need to handle the top link.

 

[California]

All of us "old school" carpenters keep a bar of parafin in our tool box for "lubing" the sides of our hand saws.

Parafin is ideal for the thumbwheel threads and the slide on a carpenter's combination square, and for bolts anywhere that need a simple anti-seize.

It's also good for lubing the runners under a sticky drawer.

There's a chunk of parafin in my toolbox and one on the workbench. As noted, it's a great non-staining assembly lube for anything you will handle later.

 

[HomeBrew2]

When I think of it, couple times a year maybe, I use New Holland spray dry lube ... graphite and moly ... good stuff.

 

[Rusty]

Everyone - WOW!!! As usual, lots of varying, good advice. You guys give me so much to think about, that my head hurts. Farmwithjunk - I like the idea of using parafin. My father was an "old school" carpenter, and would have probably recommended it also, if he were still alive. Thanks everyone for the response! BTW - I took my TSC top link apart today for the first time and found a very light coat of grease.