Top Link

[coupman35]

Good day does Kubota do hydraulic top link for B2650 or you need to go after market.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I am certain that there is no Kubota hydraulic top link only for any of the tractors and for the machines that they have hydraulic top & tilt sets for you have to purchase both the top & tilt links.

You will need to go after market. An 18"-26" units works well for the B series tractors. Keep in mind that most units will need to have the tractor end ball swivel ground down for width. The std cat 1 width is 1 3/4" and the B series is 1 9/16" wide.

 

[JWR]

Agree you have no real choice but to go aftermarket for the hydraulic top link. I have found the hyd top link to be extremely useful in all sorts of ways and recommend it highly. Would not even think of using a box scraper without one. Saves countless grief making adjustments and getting on/off the tractor. Works well with MANY if not all implements. Among the surprises is the assist it gives in hitching up 3pt attachments , being able to move heavy implements around a little bit without getting a hernia, etc. A nice feature is that they both pull and push.

Sort of alarming to hear that the tractor end of the hydraulic top link has to be ground down. There are world-wide standards for the 3pt hitch and somebody somewhere is NOT compliant with the standards. Either Kubota or the top link manufacturers, one. MtnView certainly sounds like he knows what he is talking about. I've only used the hyd top link on a larger MF tractor. If I were you I would get a caliper and make some very careful measurements of the 2650 top link connection space and then go shopping among the several manufacturers of hydraulic top links. A few phone calls seem to be in order to discuss the compatibility issue. I'd do quite a bit of that before doing any grinding.

I got mine through a very knowledgeable dealer who acquired the unit for me from a 3rd party. Price wise of course you are better on your own.

p.s.: Do some measurements on the length range you need for the top link. MtnView seems to have experience there and has given you a length range to look for. Take some measurements and see if that length range covers your applications. These things are not cheap (expect $500 or so) and you really want to get it right. I'm assuming without insulting your intel that you have the spare remote to use and all that.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Top link

Agree you have no real choice but to go aftermarket for the hydraulic top link. I have found the hyd top link to be extremely useful in all sorts of ways and recommend it highly. Would not even think of using a box scraper without one. Saves countless grief making adjustments and getting on/off the tractor. Works well with MANY if not all implements. Among the surprises is the assist it gives in hitching up 3pt attachments , being able to move heavy implements around a little bit without getting a hernia, etc. A nice feature is that they both pull and push.

Sort of alarming to hear that the tractor end of the hydraulic top link has to be ground down. There are world-wide standards for the 3pt hitch and somebody somewhere is NOT compliant with the standards. Either Kubota or the top link manufacturers, one. MtnView certainly sounds like he knows what he is talking about. I've only used the hyd top link on a larger MF tractor. If I were you I would get a caliper and make some very careful measurements of the 2650 top link connection space and then go shopping among the several manufacturers of hydraulic top links. A few phone calls seem to be in order to discuss the compatibility issue. I'd do quite a bit of that before doing any grinding.

I got mine through a very knowledgeable dealer who acquired the unit for me from a 3rd party. Price wise of course you are better on your own.

p.s.: Do some measurements on the length range you need for the top link. MtnView seems to have experience there and has given you a length range to look for. Take some measurements and see if that length range covers your applications. These things are not cheap (expect $500 or so) and you really want to get it right. I'm assuming without insulting your intel that you have the spare remote to use and all that.

Who knows why,:confused3: but Kubota B and BX series top links have the 1 9/16" wide ball swivels at the tractor end and the std 1 3/4" wide swivel for the implement end. Sort of like JD on their 5000e series tractors have a 1 3/4" wide cat 2 tractor end and the std 2" wide cat 2 implement end.

Here is a fail safe way to determine what will work best for an over all working length for a hydraulic top link. This measurement tells you what should be close to the mid stoke of the hydraulic link. I typically try to get just a bit more retraction than extension.

Good luck in your search.

 

[coupman35]

Thanks for info guy . So I need a 18 retract and 26 1/2 extension .Now uhave the choice of getting a cat two whit 1 inch pin hole and add a 3/4 bushing . Also get a 1.5 bore or a 2 inch bore . What best way to go .

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Thanks for info guy . So I need a 18 retract and 26 1/2 extension .Now uhave the choice of getting a cat two whit 1 inch pin hole and add a 3/4 bushing . Also get a 1.5 bore or a 2 inch bore . What best way to go .

Why do you want a cat 2 end for your cat 1 tractor???? I personally would not get use a 1 1/2" dia cylinder for any tractor bigger than an actual garden tractor. Get a 2" dia cylinder. When I supply my customers with a B series tractor, I provide a 2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/4" dia rod having a working length of 18"-26". This top link has a 1 9/16" wide cat 1 ball swivel at the tractor end and a 1 3/4" wide ball swivel at the rod-implement end.

The picture shows a B series top & tilt set of cylinders. This is what works best for the B series tractors unless you are using a Pat's quick hitch. Then it needs the top link to be 2" longer for a 20"-30" working length.

 

[coupman35]

That good info.But see am in Canada so I have to try and find something close to me to get this ship to me will be crazy price.Unless you have a good shipping price..If you no what I mean.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

That good info.But see am in Canada so I have to try and find something close to me to get this ship to me will be crazy price.Unless you have a good shipping price..If you no what I mean.

I'm not trying to make a sale, shipping is typically $100 for a Canada shipment. I'm just trying to get you the correct info so you don't get either the wrong item or an item that has to be modified.

A guesstimate to get a complete top link kit from me would be $475-$500 US. So add the 25-30% exchange rate and you have what you have.

My guess is that you are going to have to grind the tractor end ball swivel.

Good luck.

Plus I'm 19 weeks out, so it would be awhile before you received anything from me.

 

[coupman35]

No that great you trying to help me out that how I look at it . And if you make a sale at the same time even better. The only thing holding back it the exchange rate right now it a bite to much.


That price is that for the complete kit .hose and cylinder Id do have the remote vale on the tractor that am using whit snow blower. What be the price just for the top cylinder whit hose.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

No that great you trying to help me out that how I look at it . And if you make a sale at the same time even better. The only thing holding back it the exchange rate right now it a bite to much.


That price is that for the complete kit .hose and cylinder Id do have the remote vale on the tractor that am using whit snow blower. What be the price just for the top cylinder whit hose.

A cat 1 top link built with a 2" dia cylinder with a 1 1/4" dia rod having an 18"-26" working length having a 1 9/16" wide ball swivel at the tractor end. $300

A hose kit made with 3/8" hose and male AG type couplers. $60 Coupler size to be determined. I believe that the cab models take 1/2" couplers.

A set of flow restrictors, these allow for slower smoother adjustments of the hydraulic link. $15

Shipping costs of $100-$125 estimated.

Total estimated cost, $475-$500 US.

Shop around, you should be able to find something that should work for you with minimal alterations required. :thumbsup:

 

[coupman35]

Thanks I will look around see if I can find something if not I have your web site in my favorites

 

[Fallon]

Thanks I will look around see if I can find something if not I have your web site in my favorites

He's not the fastest turn around, but makes nice gear that just fits out of the box. I'd wait again for another FitRite setup if I ever upgrade again & need a 3rd TnT.

 

[TMGT]

This is what I have on my B2620 2x8.25x1.18 Category 1 Hydraulic Double Acting Top Link Cylinder | AMA | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com , have been very happy with it. I did need to grind down the tractor end slightly but have used it for about 7years with no problems.
They also make a slightly longer one with 11in of stroke if you use a Pat's quick hitch.

 

[MtnViewRanch]

This is what I have on my B2620 2x8.25x1.18 Category 1 Hydraulic Double Acting Top Link Cylinder | AMA | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com , have been very happy with it. I did need to grind down the tractor end slightly but have used it for about 7years with no problems.
They also make a slightly longer one with 11in of stroke if you use a Pat's quick hitch.

That is an excellent choice and alternative.

 

[TMGT]

Sorry Mtn, not trying to take work from ya , you make a fine product, although it sounds like you're doing all right with a 19week backlog!

 

[coupman35]

I need just a bit more info on what do you mean 2" diameter hydraulic cylinders with 1 1/4" diameter rods.is the 2 inch the outside of the cylinder and the 1 1/4 rod the inside cylinder that goes in and out .

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I need just a bit more info on what do you mean 2" diameter hydraulic cylinders with 1 1/4" diameter rods.is the 2 inch the outside of the cylinder and the 1 1/4 rod the inside cylinder that goes in and out .

Just about any time the diameter of a hydraulic cylinder is discussed, it is the inside bore of the cylinder that is being talked about. Yes the 1 1/4" dia would be the rod diameter that goes in and out. It is also common to find 1 1/8" and even 1 3/16" dia rods in 2" dia hydraulic cylinders. I prefer the 1 1/4" dia rods for the additional strength.

 

[coupman35]

Thanks . I was just looking at so much info that i was get confuse ,but you just clear up a few thing for me .

 

[oosik]

Five years ago this knotheaded Norwegian finally gave up and checked on a hydraulic top link. The salesman recommended FitRite Hydraulics. Another great recommendation from my friend Jack. My Fit Rite hydraulic top link is, far & away, the strongest hydraulic system on my M6040. Doesn't leak, doesn't leak down, lifts without a whimper nor whine. Very simply - just as advertised and to top it all off - butt easy to install.

My only regret - - I should have purchased it with the tractor rather than waiting.

 

[JWR]

Not that I would advocate buying there, but Amazon.com has quite a variety of hydraulic top links including several stated to be "made to fit Kubota" which probably means you don't have to grind off some of the tractor-end swivel pin hole thingy to fit the tractor's non-standard slightly narrow opening for the pin swivel. There really are a LOT of sources for these devices. AgriSupply sells some I see in their catalog for around $150. You can probably pick up the hoses you need at Tractor Supply or have them made inexpensively at many local shops.

I can't find the brand name I bought (and the tractor is too far away to just go look right now) but I bought it thru my dealer who made sure the hoses were made to fit correctly, mate with my remotes on the tractor, etc. I paid around $500 as I recall for what was described as heavy duty including the hose kit, etc. Worked great right out of the box and has for many years now. I consider it a good long-term investment.

I recommend going "heavy duty" meaning larger diameter rod and cylinder than you might think is necessary. These units take quite a beating in service and I think once you realize how handy they are you will leave it on the tractor all the time. Mine does not have the valve and extra line from end to end of the cylinder intended to avoid leak-down and slow dropping of the implement. I have never seen a need for that. I run a 1460 lb 7ft bush hog dangled from that top link most of the time and it stays put very well. Another reason I say "buy heavy duty" rather than worrying about some external fix for leak down.