Top n Tilt questions

[SuperAwesomeDOOD]

Hey guys,

I just picked up a hydraulic tnt from my kioti dealer. A few issues, but my main concern is side link travel. Is it normal for the hydraulic piston, when fully collapsed to be about 4” longer than the shortest possible length of the manual side link?

The other issues I’ve had:

—Where the side link connects to the lift arm(not the lower passive arm, but the shorter upper arm) the ‘fork’ was too spread out to get a pin in the factory stud. I fixed that with some all-thread and an impact. The factory distance is 1-1/4”.

—One of the hydraulic fittings had a pinched o ring and was bleeding quite a bit. I have just about every size of o ring on hand plus Teflon tape, so that was a simple fix.

—The supplied top link cylinder “universal joint” is too wide by just a smidge to fit into the factory mount. I can fix that as well, but I want to contact the dealer in the morning before I remove material for it to fit.

AGAIN... my main question is: for those of you who have installed hydraulic top and tilts, is it typical for the side link to be longer fully collapsed than the factory side link? Is the fix to used the adjustable side link on the other side? In other words, when fully collapsed, the hydraulic side link is longer than the fixed link, so it’ll never be flat or be capable of tilting in the opposite direction where the adjustable side can go higher than the fixed side...

If this is the case, it’ll pose issues for me for obvious reasons ie fine grading with my box blade. Not to mention, it won’t be able to lift my Woodmaxx chipper high enough to navigate rough terrain in the back wood lot.

Thanks, Jeremy

 

[SuperAwesomeDOOD]

Sorry for the dark shots, I’ll try to get better ones in the morning.

 

[oosik]

My thought - you do not have the correct hydraulic cylinder on the side link. That plus your other problems says the dealer simply gave you the wrong hydraulic cylinder. Everything should fit - no need to modify ANYTHING.

Take the unit back and get the correct one.

 

[Tinhack]

I agree. If it came from your dealer, I'd be taking it back. They should know what fits and what doesn't. Sounds like they just threw something together.

When I was putting together my T-n-T, I tried to size the tilt cylinder about 4" shorter than the other side and have enough travel to extend 4" longer. So an 8" cylinder with necessary "filler" would be my goal. As it turn's out, I'm having to make my own tilt cylinder. I couldn't find one off the shelf. (At the price I wanted to pay.)

 

[jmc]

Agree about the dealer issue. Otherwise, try replacing the fixed length side link with the adjustable length link you must have taken off for the cylinder. It's handy for range of motion even if your dealer fixes this issue.

 

[Citydude]

The manual adjustable side link needs to be put the other side.

 

[SuperAwesomeDOOD]

The manual adjustable side link needs to be put the other side.

if I do this, maxed out with minimum thread engagement, it’s only a smidge longer than the fully compressed hydraulic side link. That only gives me a few degrees of tilt in one direction and negatively impacts my 3-point lift height.

I’m going to give Fit Rite a try or source the hydraulics myself. Anyone have a lead on a 3-4” cylinder that’s about 15-1/2” center to center mid-stroke?

 

[npalen]

if I do this, maxed out with minimum thread engagement, it’s only a smidge longer than the fully compressed hydraulic side link. That only gives me a few degrees of tilt in one direction and negatively impacts my 3-point lift height.

I’m going to give Fit Rite a try or source the hydraulics myself. Anyone have a lead on a 3-4” cylinder that’s about 15-1/2” center to center mid-stroke?

Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Hydraulics,Hydraulic Cylinders,Log Splitters and Components,Hydraulic Motors,Hydraulic Pumps,Hydraulic Valves,Hydraulic Power Units,Hydraulic

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This is a good cylinder source but you may have to modify to fit your application

 

[SuperAwesomeDOOD]

Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Hydraulics,Hydraulic Cylinders,Log Splitters and Components,Hydraulic Motors,Hydraulic Pumps,Hydraulic Valves,Hydraulic Power Units,Hydraulic

www.surpluscenter.com

This is a good cylinder source but you may have to modify to fit your application

I called them. Good prices but it seems the clevis will need to be modified and the lengths aren’t quite spot on.

I called a local Kubota dealer and found tnt cylinders that match up. $900 and I can have them in a week. Case closed for me. I’ll share the part numbers once I have them.

 

[LS Tractor Owner]

Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

Hydraulics,Hydraulic Cylinders,Log Splitters and Components,Hydraulic Motors,Hydraulic Pumps,Hydraulic Valves,Hydraulic Power Units,Hydraulic

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This is a good cylinder source but you may have to modify to fit your application

Here is a link with multiple sizes:

Hydraulic Side Links

.

www.agristoreusa.com

I just installed this one on my LS, (about the same size as the CK2610):

SLH01 - Hydraulic Side Link Cylinder, Cat 0 Base End w/ Clevis Rod End (2" Bore) | Up to 60% off Dealer Prices | TractorJoe.com

TractorJoe offers the best online shopping for tractor parts. Get quality tractor parts for Ford tractors, John Deere tractors, Massey Ferguson tractors and many more at discount prices.

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It has an overall length of 15 1/4" in the shortest hole position.

Worked out perfectly! With the 3 holes in the bottom clevis, plenty of adjustments. A bigger one would be the SLH02, but it was too long for my tractor.