I am thinking of buying either a L4310 or L4610 "rental Special" from Carver, and have plans to add a top & Tilt kit, with the dual hydraulic valves. I was quoted a price of $1,500 for the retrofit and upgrade. So, is this something that I would benefit from, as it pertains to a box scraper, post hole auger, brush hog, etc. over the life of the tractor. Are there any other solutions to getting a hydraulic top link to assist in the controling the pitch and height of the rear power attachments.
Top & Tilt Kits
- Thread starter kamarch
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Bird
Rest in Peace
kamarch, it seems a shame that the top 'n tilt costs as much as it does, but I think you'll regret it if you don't get it. I doubt that it'll help any with a post hole auger unless you get a down force kit, but it's very handy when changing implements, and all but necessary for box (or other) blades.
Bird
Bird
StanInCalif
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- JD 300B, JD 4310
Good point, Bird. I use both every time I change implements. The top link is especially handy for this. I hook it up first and use it to pull/push the implement toward/away from the tractor. -Stan
Bird, Thanks for the additional information. I was assuming that the Top & Tilt kit was required for the post auger? Does this mean that I will need a down-force kit for the auger? Does the down-force kit require one or both of the hydraulic links? Since this a dealer upgrade, I am worried that the hydraulic levers may not be hard to use...at least for box blade operations. Any comments would be appreciated!
This thing is getting more expensive by the minute!
Thanks, again!
This thing is getting more expensive by the minute!
Thanks, again!
Bird
Rest in Peace
kamarch, I've used a few post hole augers, but never one with the down-force kit. In other words, just gravity (sometimes aided by additional weight on the auger) pushed it down into the ground (except when they get a bite and screw themselves into the ground/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif). The ones I've used required removal of the top link and that's where the auger boom hooked up. Someone else will have to tell you more about the down-force kits. I just know that when I use a box blade, I make extensive use of the top 'n tilt, and I also use it when changing and hooking up implements so I think it's well worth buying when you buy a tractor.
Bird
Bird
Anonymous Poster
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KAMARCH,
I ONLY USED A POST HOLE DIGGER ONCE ON MY 2710.
WHEN IT DIDN'T WANT TO DIG ANY MORE I USED THE FEL TO LIFT UP THE FRONT THUS PUTTING PRESSURE ON THE AUGER.
A WORD OF CAUTION; IT WAS LIKE SOMETHING WAS SUCKING IT DOWN. I WAS LUCKY TO GET IT OUT. USE THE FEL SLOWLY.
I ONLY USED A POST HOLE DIGGER ONCE ON MY 2710.
WHEN IT DIDN'T WANT TO DIG ANY MORE I USED THE FEL TO LIFT UP THE FRONT THUS PUTTING PRESSURE ON THE AUGER.
A WORD OF CAUTION; IT WAS LIKE SOMETHING WAS SUCKING IT DOWN. I WAS LUCKY TO GET IT OUT. USE THE FEL SLOWLY.
FRed, Bird, Stan,
As a side note, I saw an interesting auger setup on a green today. The auger was mounted inside a steel frame, which I assume allowed the auger to be PTO-screw or hydraulic driven, inside the cage. The dirt in this part of Oklahoma is very clayey, and has soft sandstone layers. I am sure that most operators would need an auger with tungsten teeth to get through most of it. I assume the top link is needed to position the cage up or down.
Cheers!
As a side note, I saw an interesting auger setup on a green today. The auger was mounted inside a steel frame, which I assume allowed the auger to be PTO-screw or hydraulic driven, inside the cage. The dirt in this part of Oklahoma is very clayey, and has soft sandstone layers. I am sure that most operators would need an auger with tungsten teeth to get through most of it. I assume the top link is needed to position the cage up or down.
Cheers!
