Toplink brackets 1602D?

HGM · May 31, 2006

( ( Hi all,
I am in the process of replacing the toplink brackets that attach to the back of my 1602D. I removed the bolts, but they were SAE (3/8), I suspect they must have been M10-1.5 or something. Does anybody know what they are supposed to be? I would like to fix the thread (as they are in rough shape, drill out and retap, or use a helicoil. Suggestions?

Cheers,
Rob
)

Helicoils were designed as a temporary fix, until a machine could be brought into a workshop and the hole either, oversized and retapped the next size, or welded and redrilled the origonal size.
Helicoils are only as good as the thread you screw them into.
Many years back during my apprenticeship in coal mines, we used then as a temp repair on machinery. They were forbidden to be used in bolts retaining covers on flameproof/explosionproof switchgear.
I personally haven't used them in years. I'd much prefer drilling and tapping to the next bolt size up, much better job and stronger too! )

Overall, I agree.... You should check these out.. They would actually make a stronger thread in most instances..

HGM · May 31, 2006

( ( Hi all,
I am in the process of replacing the toplink brackets that attach to the back of my 1602D. I removed the bolts, but they were SAE (3/8), I suspect they must have been M10-1.5 or something. Does anybody know what they are supposed to be? I would like to fix the thread (as they are in rough shape, drill out and retap, or use a helicoil. Suggestions?

Cheers,
Rob
)

Helicoils were designed as a temporary fix, until a machine could be brought into a workshop and the hole either, oversized and retapped the next size, or welded and redrilled the origonal size.
Helicoils are only as good as the thread you screw them into.
Many years back during my apprenticeship in coal mines, we used then as a temp repair on machinery. They were forbidden to be used in bolts retaining covers on flameproof/explosionproof switchgear.
I personally haven't used them in years. I'd much prefer drilling and tapping to the next bolt size up, much better job and stronger too! )

Overall, I agree.... You should check these out.. They would actually make a stronger thread in most instances..

John47 · May 31, 2006

( ( ( Hi all,
I am in the process of replacing the toplink brackets that attach to the back of my 1602D. I removed the bolts, but they were SAE (3/8), I suspect they must have been M10-1.5 or something. Does anybody know what they are supposed to be? I would like to fix the thread (as they are in rough shape, drill out and retap, or use a helicoil. Suggestions?

Cheers,
Rob
)

Helicoils were designed as a temporary fix, until a machine could be brought into a workshop and the hole either, oversized and retapped the next size, or welded and redrilled the origonal size.
Helicoils are only as good as the thread you screw them into.
Many years back during my apprenticeship in coal mines, we used then as a temp repair on machinery. They were forbidden to be used in bolts retaining covers on flameproof/explosionproof switchgear.
I personally haven't used them in years. I'd much prefer drilling and tapping to the next bolt size up, much better job and stronger too! )

Overall, I agree.... You should check these out.. They would actually make a stronger thread in most instances.. )

Now those are a huge improvement on Helicoils Greg!! They look stronger being a solid material!

John47 · May 31, 2006

( ( ( Hi all,
I am in the process of replacing the toplink brackets that attach to the back of my 1602D. I removed the bolts, but they were SAE (3/8), I suspect they must have been M10-1.5 or something. Does anybody know what they are supposed to be? I would like to fix the thread (as they are in rough shape, drill out and retap, or use a helicoil. Suggestions?

Cheers,
Rob
)

Helicoils were designed as a temporary fix, until a machine could be brought into a workshop and the hole either, oversized and retapped the next size, or welded and redrilled the origonal size.
Helicoils are only as good as the thread you screw them into.
Many years back during my apprenticeship in coal mines, we used then as a temp repair on machinery. They were forbidden to be used in bolts retaining covers on flameproof/explosionproof switchgear.
I personally haven't used them in years. I'd much prefer drilling and tapping to the next bolt size up, much better job and stronger too! )

Overall, I agree.... You should check these out.. They would actually make a stronger thread in most instances.. )

Now those are a huge improvement on Helicoils Greg!! They look stronger being a solid material!

Jagmandave · May 31, 2006

I've used heli-coils for years and never thought of them as a temporary repair, and never had one fail either. However, the newer style refenced above do look better, especially since they can't back out or run on thru, but then I've never had a properly installed heli-coil do that either. But, what if you want to remove it?

Jagmandave · May 31, 2006

I've used heli-coils for years and never thought of them as a temporary repair, and never had one fail either. However, the newer style refenced above do look better, especially since they can't back out or run on thru, but then I've never had a properly installed heli-coil do that either. But, what if you want to remove it?

diirk · Jun 8, 2006

With all that said, does anyone know the metric size that should be there?

diirk · Jun 8, 2006

With all that said, does anyone know the metric size that should be there?

project_X · Jun 8, 2006

Mine had been replaced with 7/16"., I think they might have been something funny like M11 -1.5. Some one who has a stock tractor will have to help with the actual size, I am interested as well. I drilled mine out and tapped for 1/2"SAE.

Cheers,
Rob

project_X · Jun 8, 2006

Mine had been replaced with 7/16"., I think they might have been something funny like M11 -1.5. Some one who has a stock tractor will have to help with the actual size, I am interested as well. I drilled mine out and tapped for 1/2"SAE.

Cheers,
Rob