Brad_Blazer
Veteran Member
Kudos on reading the instructions. I think most hitch balls on the highway are torqued with an old pair of pipe wrenches or at best with a cheap hitch ball wrench. Hitch Ball Wrench
There are times when having a 48" Crescent wrench and a 48" Ridgid pipe wrench around the garage is a good thing.
David Kb7uns
Once tight, I take a paint marker and draw a line from the ball mount, nut and shank. This way, from time to time, I can check and see if the ball has rotated in the mount or the nut has moved on the threads. The paint mark is on the bottom, back side, so it does not look stupid.
So I got new drawbar and ball hardware for my new truck. Got both rated for 10,000# since the truck can tow up to 9500#. The balls have a 1-1/4" shank and 1-7/8" nut, and call to be torqued to 450 ft-lb. I have a 1-7/8" wrench that is about 2' long, which means I'd need to apply about 225# to the end to get 450 ft-lb torque. My only guess how to do that is to put the drawbar in the receiver sideways (i.e., rotated 90 degrees to normal) so that the shank is horizontal and I can maybe try to hang my fat azz off the end of the wrench and put my weight into it. Any better ideas? I don't think I can find a pipe big enough to fit over the end of the wrench to make a cheater bar.
450 ftlb is awfully low for a thread that size. I just use an IR 2135 impact on a short hose and hammer til it stops turning.