Towing 30 hp tractor with fel with half ton

   / Towing 30 hp tractor with fel with half ton #11  
I tow regularly with a 1500 Suburban with a frame mounted class III hitch receiver. 3.43 rear end. I have a 16' tandem axle trailor with one axle brakes. I have trailored my IH 444 at about 3400# with out problems at highway speeds auto tranny and frequently in OD.

I prefer to use my 2500 4wd diesel GMC pickup but can't always. A 6 cyl may not have the torque to get you up anything but small hills but in my case all I have are small hills.
 
   / Towing 30 hp tractor with fel with half ton #12  
The tractor may weigh more than you think. My JD 770 is listed at around 2,150 lbs. Actual weight with a Front End Loader, liquid filled rear tires, and a 4' bush hog plus fuel, is around 3,500 -3,700 lbs. Add the weight of the trailer, which may run 1,600 - 2,000 lbs, depending on how heavy duty it is and you're probably over the 5,000 lb capacity.

You need to know the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) and the CGVWR rating (Combined Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) (which should be posted on your driver's door jam). The GVWR is the van, passengers and stuff. The GCVWR is the Van, you, tools and "stuff" in the van plus the trailer.

Look at these numbers as examples. They may be close to actual for your vehicle. Say you have a 4,400 lb van with a GVWR of 6,100 lbs and a CGVWR of 10,000 lbs. With just a 200 lb driver, you could tow the 5,000 lb trailer and only have a total weight of (4,400 + 200 + 5000) 9,600 lbs. No problem with the 10,000 lb GCVWR. Load the Van to it's 6,100 lb capacity and you can only tow 3,900 lbs and not exceed the GCVWR of 10,000 lbs. If you go fully loaded with a 5,00 lb trailer and a 6,100 lb van, your way over a safe load.

If you look at the hitch platform, usually near the receiver, it should have a weight rating. On my Jeep Cherokee which is rated to tow 5,000 lbs, the hitch says 2,000 lb max without a weight distributio hitch, 5,000 with. A weight distribution hitch puts one third of the tongue weight on the front, rear and trailer axles. Otherwise, you would have 600 - 700 lbs on the hitch ball, seriously lightening the load on the steering tires on the van.

Also keep in mind that for every 1,000 ft elevation increase, a gasoline engines loses 3 - 4% of its power, so while these maximum tow ratings work at sea level, (your rig doesn't weight any more a 5,000 feet), but it's power is down to 80 or 85%.

A weight distribution hitch is critical for your application, and possible a sway control on the trailer as well. I saw a Nissan pickup with a 4 wheel car trailer towing a Honda Accord in the rain. It had jacknifed. A frame equalizing hitch would make that rig much more stable as well as keeping more weight on the tow vehicle steering wheels. An anti sway control on the trailer would also have helped prevent the problem.

A heavy overload on your tow vehicle may shorten the service life of your vehicle, will accelerate tire wear, could cause a heat relateed tire sidewall blowout and in the event of an accident may increase your personal liability.

If you do decide to do this. Know the actual GCVWR and GVWR. Weight the tow vehicle loaded as it will be used and the trailer and tractor ready for the road at a commercial scale. As already mentioned, do not tow in Overdrive, your transmission will hunt between gears, overheat and fail. Keep tires on van and trailer inflated to their maximum rating. While you have a transmission cooler installed, it's sized for the GCVWR of your light duty van. If you exceed that weight, the cooler will help, but may not be enough.

Bottom line, my guts tell me you will be in an overload situation, and I would recommend against it.

I know money is a concern, (it always is for everyone) but trying to tow this weight with your van may cost you a lot in the long run.

I hope this long post wasn't confusing. Good luck.

Joe
 
   / Towing 30 hp tractor with fel with half ton #13  
I have a mid 80's Chevy 3/4 ton van with a V6. With just a car hauler trailer weighing 1500# I don't even notice it is there. However, add 1500-2000# of small tractor and implements and it definately knows its there and starts to strain a little, but not too bad. I can maintain 55 if I take it out of OD. If I go the full 5500# + the 1500# of the trailer for a total of 7000#, well, let's just say I have to take it very slow, 30MPH tops, stay to the right side of the road and hope no one rear ends me. It just isn't capable of getting out of its own way and I become a road hazzard to others. I have done this twice and stayed on country roads. I would never take that kind of weight on a highway or busy side road without a better tow vehicle. Just my opinion. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
   / Towing 30 hp tractor with fel with half ton #14  
Speaking of trailer towing with small motors, we used to pull loads of hay with a 2wd F150 with the inline 6 in it. The loads were about 250 - 300 bales, 40 lbs each, 50 bales in the truck bed and a 1500 lb + wagon.

There were four 8% grades on the route and in second gear that truck would be lugged down so you could hear every tappet! Clack - clack - clack!

The farmers driveway was the steepest part so we would get a run for it, most of the time we'd make it up, just. Sometimes we would get stuck, sometimes we'd get dragged back down the hill! When you knew it was not gonna go we'd spin the truck like mad to dig a hole to hold the truck then run out and block the load to wait for the tractor.

Ah to be young and invincible again!
 
   / Towing 30 hp tractor with fel with half ton #15  
Al,

Vehicles are rated conservatively and are usually related to wear on vehicle before safety hazards. (Yes, this is a balance, but you get the point)

Regardless as to whether you do or not, you won't be as bad as I was. '86 Ford 1 Ton (351w) with F150 body hauling my Case backhoe (~16,800lbs) on a 10 ton trailer (~3500lbs) with the brakes not working on the trailer. Dumb, yes, but unplanned and had to get it back. Didn't have brakes and it was lugging up the hills in 4L, 4th gear, but I made it. Even got cheers from the "Chevy" neighbors as I passed at about 25mph up the hill /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

BTW, I posted this story under Safety some time ago as an example of what NOT to do... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Take the hitch rating seriously. There is a huge difference in Reese hitches and inserts. Check each component for max ratings. Some Walmart specials have a 2" "Reese" hitch insert rated at only 2000lbs or 3000lbs. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

Be careful and remember. We're sharing stories to give you a picture of what can be done and our opinions of how smart it was or wasn't, in order to help you make up your own mind.

-JC
 

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