Towing DK40SE HST Cab with half ton pickup?

[spindlewood]

I've done all this research and just about settled on buying a new DK40SE HST Cab (thanks to everyone for their input). I am realizing that I probably am not able to legally tow it with r4 filled tires and loader using my GMC Sierra 1500 (v8 3.73 Axel ratio and heavy duty towing package) - not to mention any safety concerns. I've searched and seen a similar post, but none the less, I could use some guidance. Here are the numbers:

The Sierra specs list Maximum Trailer Weight at 7,800 pounds and GCWR at 13,000 pounds.

The DK40SE HST Cab empty is 4,299# (w/Ag tires)
Loader is 1284#.
Filled tires are 700# (est)
Trailer should be about 2500# (is a 20' required?)

Total about 8783#
Truck's weight is about 5000# plus me (I'm light).

I don't foresee needing to travel often. Upgrading the truck is not an option.

Hopefully I never have to take it to the dealer with FEL or backhoe (decent assumption?). This is my first tractor and trying to wrap my head around how to make it work. I suppose worst case scenario I can even transport FEL + other implements around town in two trips. Would you bother? PITA, but better than buying a new truck. Is it close enough in weight to not sweat 15 mile trips? I've never towed a tractor (much less sat in one yet - going tomorrow to test drive).

Lastly, I'm hoping for the trailer to double for transporting 8' logs 2 miles up the road to a friend's mill. Not a whole lot, but enough to give me additional incentive for the trailer. If this is a poor idea (never owned a trailer either), I'd appreciate the feedback.

 

[Deere Dude]

Why not drive the tractor the 15 miles? Unless you are on an interstate, I would. I took my tractor to the dealer about 4-5 times and drove it 12 miles. Pick a nice day and enjoy the sun. If you can't drive it for some reason, then you probably couldn't get it on the trailer anyway, then have the dealer come and get it.

 

[Oleozz]

I had my DK 45 hauled on its trip to the mechanics on a rollback. (About 12 miles). It was driven home with no problems, back roads were used for the most part. I concur with what Deere Dude said unless the tractor is not drivable, mine was not, then hire someone to haul it.

 

[dodge man]

One thing to keep in mind there are a lot of 7000 lb trailers out there. Often called car trailers. The rating is also including the weight of the trailer so that sized trailer isn't going to work for you. You will need a bigger trailer, it seems like a 14,000 lb trailer is common so that is what you would need. I would figure you would need to be able to tow 10,000 lbs with what ever truck you would use. There are some 1/2 tons that are rated for that but you are almost into 3/4 ton territory. In other words, you need another truck otherwise like others have said, just road the tractor. The only problem being is if the tractor is broken down, the dealer will have to come get it.

 

[Diamondpilot]

You simply don't have enough truck. Get a modern 1/2 ton or used 3/4 ton spec'd properly or don't do it. Plus, hauling a tractor with no implement other than going in for service is pointless. Like others said just drive it or hire it hauled.

Chris

 

[spindlewood]

Why not drive the tractor the 15 miles? Unless you are on an interstate, I would. I took my tractor to the dealer about 4-5 times and drove it 12 miles. Pick a nice day and enjoy the sun. If you can't drive it for some reason, then you probably couldn't get it on the trailer anyway, then have the dealer come and get it.

The dealer is 90 miles away. For service or repairs, would my half ton be sufficient for towing it without the loader/other implements?

Would it make sense to get a 10k rated trailer (dealer suggested rating), use it for trips to the dealer (without implements) and only use it otherwise when I have a big enough truck (purchased or borrowed)? I hear what everyone is saying about driving the 15 miles and not attempting the full load with the half ton.

Financially it is everything I can do to get into a tractor (and trailer) at this point - bigger truck will have to wait. Just trying to figure out (now) how to get the 90 miles to the dealer.

 

[alancamby]

You need to know your trucks towing limit. Look in the owners manual that you keep in the glove box. It will tell you your tow limit with the options you have.
I have a 2011 Silverado and it will tow just over 9000lbs. I have 3.42 gears.
3.73 was not available my year with the 6 speed auto.

edit: Don't even think of trying it without first installing a brake controller.

 

[alancamby]

You simply don't have enough truck. Get a modern 1/2 ton or used 3/4 ton spec'd properly or don't do it. Plus, hauling a tractor with no implement other than going in for service is pointless. Like others said just drive it or hire it hauled.

Chris

Maybe I missed it? How do we know that he dose not have a modern truck? I never saw a model year posted.
The 3.73 tells me that it probably has the 4l60e transmission.

I have a DK40 w/out cab. My tires are dry. I would have no problem taking off my loader, hooking up my bushhog and towing to a friends/family property to mow. I have 4 wheel trailer brakes and a nice brake controller that has a accelerometer instead of the delayed timer style controller.

here is my controller Tekonsha Prodigy P2 Trailer Brake Controller - 1 to 4 Axles - Proportional Tekonsha Brake Controller 90885

 

[motownbrowne]

Spindlewood:

You listed the tow rating and the GCWR or your truck. Unfortunately, those are sort of "made up" numbers. Here's my run down on this situation. First, you have a GVWR for your truck and trailer respectively. These are solid numbers that are the max weight of each vehicle including their own weight. Then you have GAWR for each axle. This is the max weight on each axle including itself. These numbers are illegal to surpass, not to mention dangerous.

The GCWR is published by the manufacturer of your truck. It takes the HP of your motor and your gearing into account. For example, I have a 1990 F250. It's a great truck. For fuel economy and reliability, I chose a model with a 300 straight 6. My GVWR is 8800 lbs. Same as all the other HD F250s of the era, including those with 460s or Diesel V8s. Ford publishes my GCWR at 10,000 lbs. I have the same brakes, suspension, steering, etc. as the other trucks, some of which have GCWRs of 20,000lbs. Now, I agree, that I can't tow the same load as effectively as the higher HP trucks, but I do feel fine about loading well beyond 10,000lbs.

As long as you pay attention to GAWRs of all the axles, as well as the GVWR of truck and trailer, you are within the limits of the law. As mentioned above, a good brake controller is essential. You will need to be the judge of whether or not you are safely towing the load, but I would bet that with the right trailer, you will be able to finnagle it. Also, have you considered wheel weights instead of fluid. It wouldn't be fun, but you could remove them for transport.

Good luck, be safe.

 

[alancamby]

The Sierra specs list Maximum Trailer Weight at 7,800 pounds and GCWR at 13,000 pounds.

sorry, just saw this. Yeah looks like you will need to upgrade or hire a tow truck.
It is ashamed, probably the only difference between your truck and mine is the transmission.
I have the 8.5" 10 bolt rear end, so that should not be what is holding the truck back. Though I will admit that I think the 10 bolt is a turd. Wish I had the 14 bolt semi-float rear.