Towing up hills

   / Towing up hills
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Why didn't you downshift into 1st gear? :confused2: You probably have a ZF-5 transmission, and 1st is synchronized. Your ratios are: 4.14, 2.37, 1.42, 1.00, 0.76. If you by chance have a 2WD, it might be feasible to change the rear axle ratio to something lower.

Trust me, I sure wanted to!!! The loss of power kind of took me by surprise.:ashamed: I just didn't expect to have to go down to 1st since it was doing fine until we got to the top where the incline increased. By then, if I had pushed that clutch in with that weight behind me, I would have come to a halt. Don't think I could have gotten it going again either from a dead stop. Now I will treat that hill differently knowing what I know - I won't go that way. :laughing:

Seems like you and others are right, for that motor/year it's overloaded. You never did say what the axle ratio is?
And, will you be doing this type of towing regularly? Biggest factor in new purchasing decision, in my mind. Continued towing with that combo could invite $$$ problems.
Seems like if the previous owner "dialed back" on the turbo, it may not even be assisting?
Comparatively, I have the same type trailer (7,000 lb 25K gooseneck) and have pulled a 18000lb load (total 25K) up "hills" in Ohio.....certainly not mountains but some fairly long inclines that got me down to 45MPH. Truck is an 06 1 ton dually Powerstroke with platinum edge chip.
Good luck!

Not sure what the axle ratio is, I think it is setup for towing though. Would that be in the manual? I will say one factor may be my tire size in the rear. I know they are a size larger than stock which keeps the engine from reving as high. Better fuel economy when not pulling. I should probably start there and go back to the stock tires. I'm also wondering about the fuel too.

I only use the truck to pull with.
 
   / Towing up hills
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Ive been with ford for 16 years one way or another. That motor is weak to say the least. And the 15-16k your pulling well exceeds what the truck is rated for. You could have your truck dyno tuned to see if your not getting enough advance on the injector pump.
Your motor if a 7.3 idi was rated at 185hp and 338lb tq. Dealer installed turbos raised this to 190/390. Just for comparison, late model 7.3's came from the factory at 275hp/575 tq. The 2003-2006 6.0 were 325/570 (not even rated to tow what your pulling gvcw) and the 2007(late model)-2010 6.4 put out up to 350hp/650tq and as far as i know the new ford built 6.7 scorpion puts out more. Ive owned a 2002 7.3, a 2004 6.0 and a chipped 2008 6.4. Each was a huge increase in seat of the pants power. My 08 pulls 14k like its not even there. I think you are just asking waaaaay to much of your truck.

Thanks for the hp/torque comparisons. Very interesting. Engine's have come a long way! This engine definitely feels weak towing. By itself, it runs pretty swift for an old diesel.
 
   / Towing up hills #23  
Those older trucks are just not up to pulling that kind of load. Back in the later 80's, 10,000 lbs was the approximate ceiling for 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. The reason is that the GCWR would still be over 20,000 lbs on the 1 tons, and they did not have the power to weight ratios to handle much more.

As you mentioned, get the right tires on the truck. Also get a boost and exhaust gas temperture gauges installed. The gauges will allow you to see if the truck is building enough power and the EGT will allow you to back off the throttle when you reach high temps. You could also contact Banks to see what the boost and EGT thresholds should be. Then load it up and compare the results.

I've owned a few GM 6.2L diesels (still have one) and with the banks turbo, max boost should be only about 7 psi and max EGT should be about 1100 to 1200 degrees. Turning up the fuel will get a bit more power but the temps will sky rocket. The GM 6.2 and the Ford 6.9/7.3 engines do not have coated pistons AFAIK, so EGTs cannot go above 1200 degrees without melting the pistion crowns. My guess is your numbers for the 7.3 will be pretty close to a Banks powered 6.2L engine.

Another thing to consider is that with 99K miles, the injection pump could be starting to wear out, giving less pop pressure and poor injection timing. A common issue with the GM 6.2 is timing chain stretch, so injection timing slowly backs down, resulting in less power and hard starts. GM injector are also known to wear out by 100K miles. Since the engines are similar in design, I would look at all these issues. A good Stanadyne authorized repair shop could rebuild your injection pump, calibrate it correctly and can refresh your injectors. It may be worth looking into if you intend on keeping your truck.

When you have the engine as strong as it can be, another thing to consider is a gear swap. Your could always swap to a lower ratio to give better towing performance. It will reduce top speed, but I assume that is not much of an issue.
 
   / Towing up hills #24  
The tag on the rear end will have say 4 L 10 for the 4:10 limited slip or 3 73 for the open 3:73. That engine as it is may be gutless, but will run 500k miles if you take care of it. I think something is wrong because we had many of these engines and though they were anemic, they would still pull that load decently. You will spend a lot lot lot less money getting a little more power to that engine or putting a lower gear ratio in it than buying a new truck. Just my opinion.
 
   / Towing up hills #25  
Aw heck, shift down ahead of time, rev it up and be patient.:thumbsup:

Another few minutes spent on the hill really will not affect the rising of the Sun.:thumbsup:
 
   / Towing up hills #26  
Not sure what the axle ratio is, I think it is setup for towing though. Would that be in the manual?

Find the sticker on your door jam and find where it says axle code . write that code down and look in your manual under towing . it will list the ratio's for the code . ( you have either a 3:55 or 4:10 .
 

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