Towing

Beltzington · May 29, 2016

I encourage you to start with a fixed bar and clevis, it pulls better, it is safer, you can leave it attached and use when needed, it saves wear and tear on your 3-point hardware and it will set you back only $50.

I circled what we are talking about in the picture. The second picture shows the bend caused by using hooking the chain to the safety chain loops. I was pulling a 22"+ diameter 8' log out of a deep ditch when that happened, the damage looks minor but that plate is part of the structural connection of the drivetrain and not something you want to break. After that I started using the bar and clevis and found it easier to hookup and doesn't bind the chain.

Good luck.

sdef · May 29, 2016

And attached to the draw bar clevis assembly, this would really makes things safer. I have one but have yet to use it as I have not had to drag anything a long enough distance. It is fairly heavy duty.

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sdef · May 29, 2016

I should have posted all of my thoughts into a single post but it is kind of disjointed today. My actual preferred method of moving logs is to cut them into manageable lengths, depending upon terrain and weight and carry them with the grapple. BTW: the grapple is the second best logging tool I have, after the Husqvarna 562XP chainsaw and a winch the third best.

Usmcsrt1 · May 29, 2016

Thanks again to all. You all have answered my questions in depth. And thanks for the pics to reference.

buickanddeere · May 29, 2016

Glad you are asking.This is when new or over confident operators are maimed or killed when the tractor flips. By attaching too high while trying to pull too much with too small of a machine.