Tractor 1970 international 444

   / Tractor 1970 international 444
  • Thread Starter
#21  
Finally had time to get back to the shifter problem. Tried to pull the flange with the hydraulic adjustment valve but found that there are conflicting bolts and it wasn't coming off. After further research, I found that the whole piece below the seat and what holds the lift arms needs to come up and either take it off completely or hold it up with a piece of 2x4.

After holding this section high enough, the shifter assembly will come off. I found that the gears looked O.K. but the shift tower has some sliding pieces and plates and these were all rusted and frozen together. Took it all apart, cleaned and sanded all pieces, lubricated all of it and put it back together. I can now shift the shifter in all gears.

Maybe tomorrow, I can reinstall this assembly back on the tractor and see if it now works.

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   / Tractor 1970 international 444
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Well it didn't work. Had only reverse and wouldn't going other gears. Tore down again and after 3 assembles and disassembles, finally got my gears and all forks lined up.

Now to find a radiator or maybe re-core mine. Anyone got one to fit?
 

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   / Tractor 1970 international 444 #23  
joe tx,
I admire your gumption in taking on a project like that. I am following your thread with interest because my 354 (in Canada and the rest of the world besides the United States it is a 444, I think) is a similar tractor with the same gearbox. Have you figured out why it took you three tries to get the gearbox cover back on and working? In my I&T Shop Manual it mentions putting "both shifter levers in neutral position" before removing the cover. Were you able to do that? That cover has been leaking a bit of oil since day one on my tractor. Those gears must really spray the oil around. I remember my late father had it back to the dealer to change the gasket under warranty but it leaked just the same after their repair (thinking about it now, maybe they just told him they had repaired it and actually did nothing!). I've pretty well stopped the leaking by putting silicone around the outside of the cover joint but I know the proper fix would involve removing the cover. I've been hesitant to do this because the gearbox works well now and I'm afraid to cause more problems than I'd solve!
I hope you get that tractor all fixed up soon.
 
   / Tractor 1970 international 444
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Have you figured out why it took you three tries to get the gearbox cover back on and working? In my I&T Shop Manual it mentions putting "both shifter levers in neutral position" before removing the cover.
I've removed covers from old ford transmissions before, so I had an idea on what happens inside and you do start with both shifters in neutral. If you study the pictures of the gears, the red dot indicate where the forks have to align too. At first, I hadn't raised the section under the seat high enough, so I must have moved the gears on the main shaft and they were no longer aligned with the fork positions. (I don't have a manual, so I don't know the proper names of parts). So the first time I went back in, the gears weren't in the right position. Once I realized this, I tried to match the gears and the forks, however, when I went in, the long fork has to go in right and went in but had to have a final movement forward of about a 1/4". This messed up the alignment and only some gears where correct, so I only 1st and reverse, but no others.

I used some 2x4 on edge under the ends of the cover and 4 long 3/8" bolt so I could see where the gears were and I was able to see and correct the fork/gear alignment. Finally, I was able to slide the cover straight down on the 4 bolts and my transmission now works in all gears.

You probably don't have to take your shifter assembly apart as I did, but if you do, I took my cutoff wheel and marked the slide bars so I could know where they needed to be for reassembly and in the neutral position. In the pictures, the 5 red dots show where the forks need to seat. The yellow marks show where I marked the slide bars. Hope this helps.
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   / Tractor 1970 international 444 #25  
Thank you very much for your detailed explanation. Is your photo of the gears with the red dots taken from underneath the tractor? I went up to my shed to look at mine but it is a bit too cold, snowy and windy today to study it closely! I'm certainly going to keep a copy of this thread for future reference.
 
   / Tractor 1970 international 444
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Thank you very much for your detailed explanation. Is your photo of the gears with the red dots taken from underneath the tractor? I went up to my shed to look at mine but it is a bit too cold, snowy and windy today to study it closely! I'm certainly going to keep a copy of this thread for future reference.
Picture is from the top looking into the transmission with the shifter cover off. You may or may not see the most forward gear slot (on motor side) as it could be covered by oil level.....it's 65° here!
 
   / Tractor 1970 international 444 #27  
Thanks. Looking at it again I see that is oil and not the sky I'm looking at!
 
   / Tractor 1970 international 444
  • Thread Starter
#28  
They wanted $5-600. For a tractor radiator. Found this leftover aluminum 3 core radiator upstairs. About the same size and orientation. Looks like it will work.

Will have to build brackets to hold it and see how I can attach the shroud. And hope the J.B weld holds. I didn't use it on a project because it had two pencil tip size punctures on top (outside) of two ribs. Bought marine JB weld. Works in water and for aluminum...so hopefully it will work.
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   / Tractor 1970 international 444
  • Thread Starter
#30  
Got my radiator mounted. Ran it about 20-30 minutes and didn't get hot. Smokes some white smoke when I up the throttle. Need to check out. Lift, pto, transmission is working. Getting there.
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