Buying Advice tractor advice for lowcountry land work

[Lowcountry Rebel]

Put $10K into an old but mostly sound 60 HP range backhoe. Do not worry about slop in pins and steering. Replace old hoses as they blow. I went open platform since it was easier to mount than the same hoe with a full cab. I live in a swampy area and backhoe has always unstuck itself so far. The hoe is awesome for pulling out the regular tractor when I am working my myself.

I am an old iron type of guy but Kubota has a very nice line up if $$$ is not a major factor.

Probably a good idea- I have a excavator but it is on the job making money every day

 

[Lowcountry Rebel]

Think you need to think on what you will be doing with this land say in 5 and then 10 years. Getting it opened up to me is construction equipment more than ag, for construction equipment is built more for handing wood such as trees, stumps and ag is not.

Think on the use of the land, horse farm, hay, produce, and then think on what equipment you will need long term. It is costly to begin without long term direction and have to buy and replacing equipment because you realize you planned wrong.

Maybe the best salesman I have every know was Tommy Stuckey, sold me my first tractor. He would not talk till I was clear in what I needed it to do.

This is our big backyard for myself, wife, kids and grandkids- we have a land shaping plan on paper, going to build my retirement home, dig a couple of ponds where we already have natural pond sites, dove fields( tough to find in our area) deer hunting, garden and 4 wheeler fun. I have 7000 acres for hunting 2 miles away, and it's 15 minutes to my business.

Land already has a deep well, 1500 sq ft outbuilding with water/septic/bath and kitchen and a big doublewide that we will give to our son when the house is built.

An additional 5 acres was cleared and de stumped and then allowed to grow wild for the last 10 years- gotta clean that up and get it right. That will give me 12 acres in fields

 

[airbiscuit]

We're really good at spending other peoples money. What's your budget?

Look at buying 2 tractors/machines one big enough for your need, the other big enough to carry equipment/material to get your other one unstuck.

Put $10K into an old but mostly sound 60 HP range backhoe. Do not worry about slop in pins and steering. Replace old hoses as they blow. I went open platform since it was easier to mount than the same hoe with a full cab. I live in a swampy area and backhoe has always unstuck itself so far. The hoe is awesome for pulling out the regular tractor when I am working my myself.

I am an old iron type of guy but Kubota has a very nice line up if $$$ is not a major factor.

Okay, so I like that idea of the $10k backhoe to do all the land taming, pond digging, stump removing, trail making stuff. It will be nice if it has or could be fitted with a thumb. But then it would be good to also have a nice 40hp - 50hp CUT with a loader and PTO to do your tilling, mowing, grading, etc. So, I kind of agree with everybody.

 

[Steppenwolfe]

I'm buying 43 acres in the SC lowcountry that will need a good bit of tractor work- all flat land. Currently has 7 acres in fields, some fire lanes, some cutovers that have grown up and some pines. It has a 1/4 mile dirt driveway to maintain also.

Planning to open up more land for fields, dig some ponds, plant dove fields and food plots.

I know that I need a loader, root rake/grapple, disc harrow, box blade, and everything else.

I will probably buy a Kubota if I buy new- I already have a working relationship with the dealer through construction equipment and am on a first name basis with them. They are also only 5 miles away.

4x4 is a must, open cab is fine- all my construction equipment is open. I have read lots on here concerning weighting for work and stability and also about horsepower.

What I haven't read is about getting stuck in the mud/ soft ground and that will be a concern with some of my planned work.

I am open to suggestions. Thanks in advance.

MX series, a lot of tractor for the money.

 

[jeff9366]

I'm buying 43 flat acres in the SC lowcountry that will need a good bit of tractor work. Currently has 7 acres in fields, some fire lanes, some cutovers that have grown up and some pines. It has a 1/4 mile dirt driveway to maintain also.

Planning to open up more land for fields, dig some ponds, plant dove fields and food plots.

I know that I need a loader, root rake/grapple, disc harrow, box blade, and everything else.

I will probably buy a Kubota if I buy new- I already have a working relationship with the dealer through construction equipment and am on a first name basis with them. They are also only 5 miles away.

4x4 is a must, open cab is fine- all my construction equipment is open.

What I haven't read is about getting stuck in the mud/ soft ground and that will be a concern with some of my planned work.

If you tell us what construction equipment you own we can make a better tractor recommendation. A tracked Skid Steer with a grapple is a far more capable tool than a tractor with a grapple.

It is probably safe to assume your max field size will be around 35/43 acres in the Low Country.

I suggest a Kubota 'Grand L' L4760/5060/5460/6060 or more sparely equipped MX5200/5800. The MX series has larger wheels. Some of these models have turbochargers, some do not. All these tractors are 4,000 - 5,000 pounds, bare tractor weight. Loaders on all these models will lift minimum 2,000 pounds. All these tractors, equipped with 4-WD, can draw a Disc Harrow with 22" diameter pans, which should open soft Low Country land with two or three passes.

Three Point Hitch implements mounted on the tractor are unitized with the tractor so combined tractor + implement weight bears on the tires, then the ground.
R1/ag tires, also called bar tires, are for mud. Another option is bulbous radial tractor tires which have more float.
Although I have no personal experience with tractor radial tires, as you foresee grapple work, which heavily loads the front end, I would discuss fat radial tires with your dealer as potentially the best option.
A large wheel MX series tractor, fitted with bulbous radial tires, might be your optimum combination.

Tracked equipment diffuses equipment weight over a larger area than tires.

Stability is increased by spreading rear wheels apart. However, you may wish to plow and you cannot use a Three Point Hitch mounted Moldboard Plow without the centerline of the front tires lined up with the centerline of the rear tires, so the right front and right rear tires can fit in a plow furrow.

"Loading" the rear tires also increases stability, but you may wish to forego "loading" to increase float. I am operating my third tractor on flat land in Florida. I never load my tractor tires. If you elect to fill tires with air only, I would purchase one of the non-turbocharged models above.

LINKS (2) https://www.kubotausa.com/docs/default-source/brochure-sheets/l60.pdf?sfvrsn=bad1e991_6
https://www.kubotausa.com/docs/default-source/brochure-sheets/mx5800.pdf?sfvrsn=1c71be0c_4



Bias Ply vs. Radial (from tractor.com)

In the automotive world, the argument of bias ply vs. radial is long over, with radial tires ruling the roost. In the case of tractors, the argument isn’t so case closed. Operating at lesser speeds, bias ply tires are less expensive, have a more durable sidewall that is less prone to bruising damage from stumps and rocks, and thus are widely used.

Radial tires are more expensive but offer a smoother ride, have a longer tread life, and compact the soil less. Radials are run at lower air pressures, giving the tractor as much as 10-15% more traction while saving fuel and improving efficiency. On pavement, the wear durability can be up to 33% better than with a bias ply tire.

 

[rScotty]

40 to 50k

I'd look around for a good used M59 first, and second at the JD310 or Case backhoe/loaders. Don't know about around you, but I've seen a number of low hour machines up for sale recently from private owners - not ex rental or construction.
That would stay in a market you know with machinery you know and you know these are machines that can get themselves out if stuck in the muck.
Then if you want to add a catergory II 3pt for a backblade or boxblade, after the backhoe there ought to be enough left over in that budget for a dandy basic 30 year old 100 hp ag tractor like a older JD4020.
rScotty

 

[BobG_in_VA]

Hey! I'm somewhat familiar with the SC LC...my wife's family comes from Beaufort, and my brother "graduated" from the little "French Island" next to it during the '60s...knowing the country down there, just remember, the only difference in 2 WD and 4 WD is you can get further into the swamp with 4 WD before you get stuck....I'd suggest R1's filled (at least 8 ply or better), buy 1 to 2 sizes bigger than you think you need, make sure you "know your machine"..(ie. do as much of the maintenance to the unit as you can), and for Heaven's sake, don't overestimate your, or your tractor's capability...either will lead to bad things...good luck! BobG in VA

 

[LouNY]

Hey! I'm somewhat familiar with the SC LC...my wife's family comes from Beaufort, and my brother "graduated" from the little "French Island" next to it during the '60s...knowing the country down there, just remember, the only difference in 2 WD and 4 WD is you can get further into the swamp with 4 WD before you get stuck....I'd suggest R1's filled (at least 8 ply or better), buy 1 to 2 sizes bigger than you think you need, make sure you "know your machine"..(ie. do as much of the maintenance to the unit as you can), and for Heaven's sake, don't overestimate your, or your tractor's capability...either will lead to bad things...good luck! BobG in VA

First time I can remember that island being called a little French Island, was there in the summer of 1970.
As far as the tractor duals will give a lot of floatation but when she goes down it'll be harder to get out.

 

[BobG_in_VA]

First time I can remember that island being called a little French Island, was there in the summer of 1970.
As far as the tractor duals will give a lot of floatation but when she goes down it'll be harder to get out.

First of all...Thank you for your service!...as far as the French thing...I kind of coined that myself...figured anyone that had been thru there would immediately figure it out...I was down there just about 6 months ago and was amazed at all the businesses that have sprung up on the way to the entrance...seems that in '67 (the first time I saw the island), there wasn't much but swamp and trees on the way in...BobG in VA

 

[LouNY]

It sure seemed that way in 70 also, I went back about 12 years ago when one of my daughters graduated from there, it sure did look different then I remembered even then.