Grading Tractor and HD Box Blade vs. a small Dozer?

[Piston]

Disclaimer: I've never run a dozer before.

I recently (like yesterday) came across a small older dozer that I am thinking about buying.

I don't really "need" one but I've always wanted to own one for playing around in the dirt. (Who wouldn't?)
I would mostly use it to rebuild an old logging trail on my property, maybe clear some small saplings, and make some dirt bike trails.
I also have some grading to do after I move a fair amount of dirt and dig out some stumps. I do have a box blade that I think I can do most of this work with anyways, but....

I'm wondering how a small dozer would compare to my tractor with a heavy duty box blade? My tractor is about 6k lbs and box blade is a bit over 1,200lbs and 7' wide. I have the top N tilt setup for it as well.

The dozer is a 1973 Cat D3B with 6 way blade. I really don't know what it weighs but it's likely around 14,000lbs I'd guess? It has a 6 way blade on it. A couple of the cylinders need to be rebuilt as they are leaking hydraulic fluid. The undercarriage has been replaced "at some point" but I don't really know what to look for to evaluate an undercarriage.

This would be used as a weekend warrior machine. I understand dozers can have a lot of expensive problems and it's always a risk buying used.

Can anyone tell me how much better a small dozer would work compared to something like this D3? (Assuming it's mechanically sound).

I'll post some photos that I took yesterday of the machine.

 

[Texasmark]

Dozer, hands down!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Day and night comparison. If the D3 is sound with good undercarriage, reasonable price "to you" which is all that matters, go for it. Won't take you an hour to learn the controls, longer to learn all that you can do with it.

 

[4570Man]

When I cut my driveway I used a D3 dozer. I wasn't much of a dozer operator and it still won. With an experienced operator the dozer is going to eat your lunch. Not that surprising since it weighs more than twice as much and was designed for the task at hand.

 

[Gary Fowler]

At almost 9000 hours of use, I would expect that the undercarriage should have been rebuilt once or twice and maybe even the tracks replaced. The tracks look good as do the drive wheel cogs. I would look closely at the idlers and carriers to see if any are frozen up from setting so long as it appears to have been setting for a while.
Check out the engine, I am sure it will use a bit of oil and likely smoke a little with blue smoke with that many hours unless it has had a really gently life. A little oil consumption wouldn't stop me from buying as long as the undercarriage, clutches and brakes were good.

As far as which will be best, a dozer with 6 way blade is about as good as it gets and D3 is about the smallest dozer made for commercial use I think, but still a very capable machine. I used a D6 to level some spoil banks from a drainage ditch that was dug with a drag line back when I was about 18 and I still remember the thrill of operating that machine and the dirt that it would move.

 

[Oldoak]

Dozer, hands down!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Day and night comparison. If the D3 is sound with good undercarriage, reasonable price "to you" which is all that matters, go for it. Won't take you an hour to learn the controls, longer to learn all that you can do with it.

I agree.

Although replacement parts and rebuilding of final drives and clutches, etc. can be can be very expensive. Often times you can save money by purchasing used parts, however the labor involved is still costly for most of us who don't have the heavy equipment and tools necessary to do the job. Then again, you can be lucky and the machine you are considering could be a gem for the projects you are anticipating.

 

[PILOON]

From the pics, the undercarriage looks to have lots of life remaining.
Sprockets and tracks good.
Generally hydraulics are maintainable at modest costs in that seals hose consist of mostly your expense., that is if the pump is in decent shape but that is relatively easy to verify.
One very costly area to venture in is transmission and final drives so you want to verify that closely.
I always suggest having a qualified heavy equipment mechanic with you for a more qualified opinion.
His 1-2 hr fee will be your best investment.

 

[topbuilder]

Rent. Use your box blade to clean up the mess the Dozer makes. You will insulate yourself from risk.

 

[Gordon Gould]

Like the others said, The dozer is far better. Especially if you are cutting a side hill that is a discomfort or scary when operating a tractor.

The only thing I saw from the pictures. and it is very hard to tell because of the angle, is the wear on the bottom rollers. As the rollers wear (get smaller in Diameter where the track chain runs) and the track chain flanges wear, The chain bushing ends can encroach and eventually hit the outside roller flanges. It may be close. Also I think (not at all sure) the D3B has dry steering clutches so if it has set a long time don't be surprised if they are rusted and frozen. You will want to pick the front off the ground with the blade if you can and make sure the rollers turn (they turn hard by hand but they should turn) and pry them with a bar to make sure the bearings aren't whobbley.

As far as operating - no problem. You won't be efficient and you will be clumsy at first but so what.

Here is a test to do an old timer sent me when I was going to look at a JD450

What to look for -
Undercarriage wear (all the parts that make it move or come in contact with moving parts).
Rear Sprockets - pointy(bad) broad & flat (good)
Front tensioner, idler roller, and track rollers - are they nice & round or, cupped / U shaped, or out of round.
Track Link Bushings (the round part of the track chain that is driven by the sprockets) Are they symmetrical round? or do they have flat spots?
Track link wear (slop in the bushings) - are the tracks properly tensioned - is there a little sag in them or a huge amount of sag? Take a look at the track tensioner mechanism, it is usually a cylinder rod that pushes up against the front roller to take up track slack, how much travel is left to keep the tracks from excessive sag. You can tell by looking how many inches of travel are left at the front of the track rails.

Long track has 6 rollers.

Leaks - any leak anywhere is not good.
Hydraulic cylinders and rods, are they leaking? Rods pitted / gouged? Rod seals leaking ?

Steering breaks & steering clutches -
Drive it around turning left & right, get a feel for how far each lever has to be pulled back to steer it.
Find a place to lower & bury the blade, BOTH tracks should continue to spin at the same rate, this will tell you the steering clutches are still good, or at least have some life left in them.

Pull both steering levers back about half way at the same time so as to dis-engage the steering clutch but not so far that it activates the steering breaks, both tracks should roll to a stop, and the engine should not bog down, then slowly release one lever, the dozer will be powered by one track but should still go in a straight line. Repeat with the other lever to make sure the dozer will go in a straight line by being driven on only one track.

gg

 

[Gordon Gould]

I edited the above because I totally messed up the bit about the chain bushing hitting the rollers.
Put it here incase you already read it and you are confused buy what I said.

gg

 

[jimmysisson]

The dozer is best for those tasks since it's heavy and stable. If you are thinking you'll save some dough by doing you projects yourself, I'm skeptical. If it's for fun and edumication, go for it.

Jim