Tractor and Slopes

   / Tractor and Slopes #22  
How accurate is that? Amazing at how many things phone apps can replace. Not that I would build a house with one, but I might hang a picture with one.

It's accurate compared to a manual gauge I have.
 
   / Tractor and Slopes #23  
Due to reading this thread, I downloaded an app and even put it to use today. I couldn't take a picture of the reading, as it's on the same phone I used to take the picture. Said 20°, barn in the background gives a reasonable 'level' perspective.



I was surprised the angle was so low, my seat-of-the-pants-o-meter though it was closer to 30°. This sidehill is at the edge of my comfort zone, although I've been on steeper, just uncomfortable! Quite steeper, actually, likely in the 30-35° range. As I get the chance I will check some other steep places I've been able to climb.
 
   / Tractor and Slopes #24  
yOUR SKIVVIES will tell you .

Measuring the angle of the resulting line would work for going up and down hills but not when going sideways on a hill. Unless maybe you sit side saddle
:D
 
   / Tractor and Slopes #25  
I take all side hills with caution. I have a tilt meter above the dash I use for establishing grading slopes or crowns. 20 degrees is common place but like Diesel it is at the edge of my comfort range. The trouble with side slopes is they are all different even if they measure the same. A lot depends on the roughness of the terrain, if you have to turn up hill which raises the center of gravity, what load you are hauling in the bucket or the 3ph, and what you are doing. For example I can go really steep on a smooth slope with my sickle bar on the up hill side but way less than 20 degrees skidding a log straight up a slope where I have to make a sharp turn and get on a side hill trail. At the turn the log can easily roll the tractor down hill.

CorduroyCutLd2 (4).JPG

gg
 
   / Tractor and Slopes #27  
Since joining I've seen a few comments on slopes so today I decide to check a few of the slopes I drive on nearly a daily bases. There is one I have to have something in the front bucket to keep the front wheels on the ground but it's been raining so I never checked it out to see the max. slope the tractor will climb.A couple are my driveway and a few of trails that I use there are approx. 5 miles of trails 70% are just slight grade to med. so this is only a small sample.
-
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When working on these hill sides there's a good chance you won't get a second chance if your careless & you should get to know your tractor very well before tackling steep slopes. In some of the open areas I'm able to log without trails.

So you regularly work your CK27 on those steep slopes with turf tires?
Not me. I'd use the setup that I had on my 1964 MF135 diesel.

MF135 stump1 (1).JPGMF135 stump2.JPG

The rears are 18.4-16 ag tires (16" dia rims) filled 2/3 with water (no freezing problem here in the North Sacramento Valley). The front axle spindles have been shortened to keep the tractor level. The rears on my 135 are worn so if I had to work on steep slopes I'd get new rubber. And, since the 135 is not the best choice for FEL work (weak front axle), I'd step up to a MF150 or MF165 and a 5-ft wide bucket.

One other thing I like about these old MF tractors is their inherently low center of gravity, which is what you want for work on steep slopes. They are straddle tractors that you ride like a horse with your legs straddling the transmission. Your CK27 is a platform tractor with your feet on the floorboard that's attached above the transmission--higher CG.

Good luck and be careful out there.
 
   / Tractor and Slopes #28  
So you regularly work your CK27 on those steep slopes with turf tires?
Not me. I'd use the setup that I had on my 1964 MF135 diesel.

View attachment 445897View attachment 445898

The rears are 18.4-16 ag tires (16" dia rims) filled 2/3 with water (no freezing problem here in the North Sacramento Valley). The front axle spindles have been shortened to keep the tractor level. The rears on my 135 are worn so if I had to work on steep slopes I'd get new rubber. And, since the 135 is not the best choice for FEL work (weak front axle), I'd step up to a MF150 or MF165 and a 5-ft wide bucket.

One other thing I like about these old MF tractors is their inherently low center of gravity, which is what you want for work on steep slopes. They are straddle tractors that you ride like a horse with your legs straddling the transmission. Your CK27 is a platform tractor with your feet on the floorboard that's attached above the transmission--higher CG.

Good luck and be careful out there.


While I agree that an older straddle type tractor sits lower the operator weight being a few inches higher isn't a big deal. I like the older MF tractors as they have proved to be reliable and rock solid performers. Adding a rops would be an important addition though, even if you had to make it yourself.
 
   / Tractor and Slopes
  • Thread Starter
#29  
CG I've been on this property using turf tires on a tractor for over 20 yrs. now and found for my purposes they work very well year round. It's important to never take chances on side slopes or up and down for that matter if the weather & soil conditions are not suitable . My backhoe weighs 20,000 lbs. with ag type tires and I don't find it any better in wet conditions. Always air on the side of caution.
 
   / Tractor and Slopes #30  
Due to reading this thread, I downloaded an app and even put it to use today. I couldn't take a picture of the reading, as it's on the same phone I used to take the picture. Said 20°, barn in the background gives a reasonable 'level' perspective.



I was surprised the angle was so low, my seat-of-the-pants-o-meter though it was closer to 30°. This sidehill is at the edge of my comfort zone, although I've been on steeper, just uncomfortable! Quite steeper, actually, likely in the 30-35° range. As I get the chance I will check some other steep places I've been able to climb.


Geez, that would be steeper than I would care to traverse on my tractor, at least sideways. I could/would do it straight up or down if I had too, but I probably wouldn't like it much. Btw, looks like your cows handle that steep hill just fine. :laughing:
 
   / Tractor and Slopes #31  
No cows here... couple horses/ponies is all.

Checked a few more slopes today... sidehill, I can get to 30°, thats all i want, backing up a hill, 45°, and it feels like yer gonna land on yer nose!
 
   / Tractor and Slopes #32  
No cows here... couple horses/ponies is all.

Checked a few more slopes today... sidehill, I can get to 30°, thats all i want, backing up a hill, 45°, and it feels like yer gonna land on yer nose!

I thought they might be mountain goats with that slope. :D
 
   / Tractor and Slopes #33  
Dieselcrawler, that property is very pretty, how many acres do you have?
 
   / Tractor and Slopes #34  
I don't know about others but I have sensors in my butt that determine how far I will go.

:laughing: I was thinking the same thing when I started reading this thread. It's called "flying by the seat of your pants" and I employ the "pucker factor" as a backup.
 
   / Tractor and Slopes #35  
Dieselcrawler, that property is very pretty, how many acres do you have?

Thanks... about 118 ac. About 50% "clear" medows, rest woods. Medows haven't been kept up, I've been working on clearing them as I can over the two and a half years we've been here.

Red lines approximate property lines.

 
   / Tractor and Slopes #36  
I'm still fairly new with this tractor (BX2200), but this was some good learning experience. Bringing up about 3 yards of gravel on this side hill was slow going. Dumping up the hill was easy, but traversing got the pucker factor up, both loaded and unloaded. I really need to get more counter weights on the back besides filled tires. Our 5 acres is all like this, so there is never any time to relax.
 

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   / Tractor and Slopes #37  
I'm still fairly new with this tractor (BX2200), but this was some good learning experience. Bringing up about 3 yards of gravel on this side hill was slow going. Dumping up the hill was easy, but traversing got the pucker factor up, both loaded and unloaded. I really need to get more counter weights on the back besides filled tires. Our 5 acres is all like this, so there is never any time to relax.

Agree you need some counter weight for most fel work. I would also be concerned with the bulkhead holding up in your picture. Looks like it needs more support imo.
 
   / Tractor and Slopes #38  
Would wheel weights (50 lbs) do any good, or do I just need to hang my loaded carryall off the back?

I agree the picture of the wall looks suspect- but it's just the photo angle. However, I've got 4' driven piles with pre-stressed tiebacks hidden under the gravel- the end piece is only temporary. The facing is reclaimed cedar. It's quite solid.
 
   / Tractor and Slopes #39  
Would wheel weights (50 lbs) do any good, or do I just need to hang my loaded carryall off the back?

I agree the picture of the wall looks suspect- but it's just the photo angle. However, I've got 4' driven piles with pre-stressed tiebacks hidden under the gravel- the end piece is only temporary. The facing is reclaimed cedar. It's quite solid.

Much better to use the carry all or other 3ph implement for two reasons, one it is easy to remove for mowing and second it reduces the load on the front axle.

Good to hear that there is more structure than is shown in the picture.
 
   / Tractor and Slopes #40  
What bothers me is the surprise factor in the field. I can be comfortably traversing a slope and then roll over a ground hog hole, some other hoe, or a low stump and that changes a decent angle to a scary angle. So I don't push the limits because there all always some unknowns out there.

Yet, my neighbors mow fields that seem impossibly steep and seem to have no hesitation. They are a good bit rough and ready than I am but I still wonder how they do it.
 

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