tractor blowing fuses

[jinmared]

I have a 2004 354 Jinma tractor that is blowing the main 30 amp power fuse.
I was using the tractor and everything was running good with no problems. I shut it down for some lunch and when i came back and tried to start it that is when the fuse started to blow. I turn on the switch and the power comes on for lights and gauges but when I go to start mode , pop goes the fuse.
Can anyone help try to diagnose this problem, I suspect a starter solenoid .

Thanks

 

[Diamondpilot]

Check the wires for the clutch safety switch. In the past others have reported the wires getting pinched by the pedal or linkage and shorting out the system. Usually this is due to brush snagging the wires.

Chris

 

[Affordable]

Also check the small wire by the starter solenoid,it's going to be a wire grounding out somewhere.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales
"Your Jinma Parts Superstore"
Home of compact Jinma, Foton, and Koyker Tractors and Parts, Wood Chippers, Backhoes - Affordable Tractor Sales Company

 

[greg_g]

Unless your pre-heat circuit is separately fused, a shorted glow plug will blow that fuse as well. Reason being, there's no way to get to START without turning the key past the HEAT position. Turning the key to the right that is. Some keyswitches have a second START position all the way to the left, a feature which permits you to bypass the pre-heat cycle on an engine that's already warmed up. If the clutch interlock and associated wires are good, and your glow plug circuit is operating satisfactorily, suspect the keyswitch itself.

//greg//

 

[studor]

I have the 284 not the 354 but you can start it without heat by turning the switch counterclockwise unless you replaced the switch with an aftermarket. Everytime mine has had problem popping the main fuse it has been the clutch safety switch itself-- its a crappy switch in a bad location and disentegrates inside if improperly adjusted -- easy to check by bridging the connector -- WITH THE TRACTOR OUT OF GEAR!
The fuse usually pops on a dead short so try starting the tractor (out of gear of course) by bridging the solenoid and if it starts, work on the backwards through the rest of the starting circuit.

 

[jinmared]

Thanks to everyone that replied to my problem , The safety switch was the problem. I rewired the switch and installed it in the dashboard next to the ignition switch , works great.
Thanks again

 

[studor]

Glad you got it fixed --- Never thought of that solution -- what do you do -- turn it on to start and then immediately turn off? Just curious, not part of the safety police

 

[Diamondpilot]

Glad you got it fixed --- Never thought of that solution -- what do you do -- turn it on to start and then immediately turn off? Just curious, not part of the safety police

I think he means he used the same switch and starts it by pushing it in with his finger. I believe he is using the oem one.

Chris

 

[Bob Rooks]

I hope he always remembers to either have it in neutral or have the clutch depressed. Could be a real waker-upper. He just defeated the purpose of the switch.

 

[Bob Rooks]

I hope he always remembers to either have it in neutral or have the clutch depressed. Could be a real waker-upper. He just defeated the purpose of the switch.

Proud member of the Safety Police. :laughing:

 

[greg_g]

Yup, sure ain't a clutch interlock switch anymore. I guess you could call it a "thumb interlock switch" now.

//greg//

 

[cleat]

I wish these tractors had a neutral switch instead of the clutch switch to make it easier to start while off of the seat. This comes in handy for things like installing the loader etc where the tractor engine needs to be on and off for safety and also hydraulic function.

 

[dmgks]

I wish these tractors had a neutral switch instead of the clutch switch

That's when I temporarily turn the clutch interlock into a thumb interlock. :thumbsup:

 

[CanuckShooter]

I was having the same problem, came to the forums and started researching.....in the end I found the block harness [white harness connector about 2 1/2" wide] beside the fuse box had slipped apart a little and was causing a short/arc? Just something else for a researcher to check out when they are troubleshooting.....;-)

 

[Circle G Tractors]

The electricals are the weakest part on these units, we always check all connections first as you said they will arc if they have slipped apart and we have seen that several times ourselfs.

Ben
Jinma Tractor Parts, Farm Pro Tractor Parts, Farmpro, Nortrack, Agracat

 

[greg_b]

My tractor blows the fuse when trying to start it with heat. But when I start it by turning the key to the left, it starts fine. Should I suspect a shorted glow plug? And if so can I fix the plug?

 

[quicksandfarmer]

My tractor blows the fuse when trying to start it with heat. But when I start it by turning the key to the left, it starts fine. Should I suspect a shorted glow plug? And if so can I fix the plug?

It could be the plug or it could be some where else. You can easily isolate the glow plugs, there's a brass bar that connects the glow plugs and the wire is just held on with a thumb screw. Take the wire off, tape the end so it doesn't short against the engine, and see if the fuse still blows turning the key to the right. If not you've isolated the problem to the glow plugs. I would replace all three and call it done. If you still get shorts with the glow plugs disconnected the problem is somewhere in your wiring or key switch.

 

[greg_g]

My tractor blows the fuse when trying to start it with heat. But when I start it by turning the key to the left, it starts fine. Should I suspect a shorted glow plug? And if so can I fix the plug?

I'm assuming you're asking about a Rhino tractor. Which engine, and what type of pre-heat, individual glow plugs or a single manifold heater?

Also, your question would get more exposure if you started your own topic rather than attaching your question to this topic.

//greg//